Shure mixer connected to Canon HV 30 camcorder

[Richard Crowley]

Originally Posted by Rick Reineke

Additionally, ground-loops can usually be avoided by having the interconnected audio/video gear plugged into the same circuit. Field production audio gear draws very little power so tripping a breaker should not be problem...

Yes, that is correct in traditional cases. But I've encountered too much modern equipment that uses SMPS (switch-mode power supplies) "line lumps" that generate their own "ground loop". So having them even plugged into the same power strip doesn't help. Alas the only solution is battery power or an audio isolation transformer. Even Radio Shack sells a little in-line stereo iso transformer for use with laptops because this is such a widespread problem.

[Steve House]

Originally Posted by Jonathan Levin

...Tape out to camera is the way to go then. Can I ask a you, is it just standard that the mic input on the HV30 or most camcorders that the input is un-balanced. I'm looking at page 103 in the Canon manual in the spec for Mic "3.5mm stereo minijack, -57dBV (with 600 ohm microphone) 5 kohms or more". I could be so new to this that the answer is right there and I just don't know it. ...

You could also set the main outputs to mic level using the switches on their panel and use this XLR to stereo mini Y cable DV Cam Stereo Input Cable (REM CAMCXY) | Trew Audio to connect to the camera. I have one of those that I've used with my SD442 set to output at mic level and it works like a champ.

[Richard Crowley]

Wow! That adapter cable from Trew certainly comes at a premium price! I think I could make 3 or 4 of them for that price. And not even gold-plated! :-)

[Chris Barcellos]

For me, the way I would feed the camera is to feed out of the XLR outputs on the Shure Mixer, into an XLR adapter mounted on the camera. See the Beachtek or Juice Links for examples. This gives you multiple set up capability. At the mixer you can mix three inputs to two channels out. Most of the time in dialogue, you mix down to a mono signal so you only have to feed one XLR cable out to the camera.

[Steve House]

Originally Posted by Richard Crowley

Wow! That adapter cable from Trew certainly comes at a premium price! I think I could make 3 or 4 of them for that price. And not even gold-plated! :-)

Yep, it is a little pricey, but the build quality is first rate. For those who are not handy with a soldering iron it may be worth it. And the 3.5mm plug is gold plated <grin> It is one of the few off-the-shelf solutions on the market that actually is wired properly, including the capacitors to block plug-in power voltage.

[Les Wilson]

Seems to me the Juicelink alone will do the trick nicely.

The XLR adapter cable on the FP33 may still be preferable to the modification required to change the Tape Outs to mic level:
From page 9:
Decreasing Tape Out Level to Mic Level
1. Locate R1112 and X511 (the top side of the bottom PC board, by the L Out XLR connector).
2. Locate R1114 and X510 (the bottom side of the bottom PC board, by the Tape Out jack).
3. Remove R1112 and R1114. 4. Solder a jumper through the holes at X511.
5. Solder a jumper through the holes at X510.

[Richard Crowley]

Seems to me the Juicelink alone will do the trick nicely.

Doesn't seem that way to me. And that wasn't the question, either.

[Les Wilson]

Originally Posted by Richard Crowley

Doesn't seem that way to me. And that wasn't the question, either.

The Juicedlink has come up a couple times as a solution to OP problem which is connecting a Stereo XLR mic to an HV30. From another thread, we know that the FP33 was being explored as a purchase or barter. Injecting a Juicedlink or Beachtek as an alternative solution is certainly in bounds. Especially in context of the FP33 requiring an expensive cable or soldering skills to make his own cable or modifying the circuit board of the FP33.

[Richard Crowley]

I believe others share my opinion that the Shure mixer is in a different class than anything made by Juiced Link. A Juiced Link product is NOT the equivalent of anything from Shure.

Not knowing how to solder is like not knowing how to put gas in your car. You can survive, but only at the mercy of others. And people who don't do critical comparison shopping are condemned to buy expensive cables. Sorry. Trew is a great company, but addition of a couple of 50-cent capacitors is not excuse to jack up the price of a simple cable by $30-40. You can have a CUSTOM cable built by Redco that does exactly the same thing for less than 1/3 the price Trew is asking. And you can make your own for 1/4 or 1/5 that price.

http://www.redco.com/shopexd.asp?ycable=yes&id=899

People who learn at least enough to cook for themselves save tons of money over those who are dependent on McDonalds, et.al.

[Les Wilson]

Learning to cook for yourself is pretty harmless. Learning to solder on an FP33 isn't a good idea and I wouldn't ever recommend soldering a PC board without knowing the skill of the person. Also, modifying the FP33 affects the OP using it for VO to a Macbook pro
http://www.dvinfo.net/forum/all-thin...ml#post1768958

Then there's ergonomics, the Juicedlink and Beachtek devices are built to sandwich between camcorder and tripod.

[Jonathan Levin]

Thanks Guys.

Les, I think for VO, I'd go for the mic>M-Audio Fastrack>Mac laptop. Or at least test this to see if it is OK for my use.

All- I am capable of doing some minor soldering surgery, however in this case I haven't yet done the deal to own the mixer, so I wouldn't want to alter the Tape Out>Mic level just yet. I wish that they made this a switchable option so you could reset back to default if needed. And yes, using the less clunky mini-mini from the tape out would be nice.

That cable from Trew seems to be a reasonable way to go with out altering the mixer, but as Richard pointed out, the $73.00US is a bit un-reasonable, especially since Santa brought less coal in the stocking this year than in previous years.

I gave at Redco a call and discussed the Y-cable option. They can put together a cable for about $30.00, but it would not have the DC voltage blocking capacitor. Apparently that is in case of an overload, but they claim they have not heard of any problems by not using the DC voltage blocking capacitor.

As far as the ground loop noise, good to know that that may only be a problem if both the camera AND the mixer are connected to the power bricks. Though the mixer has a DC in, I don't have the proper brick, so it would be running on the two 9 volts, and I'd pack lots of spares (I've read enough for three changes during the coarse of a days shoot/recording.)

Best to all.

Jonathan

[Gary Nattrass]

and one of these will convert a stereo tape output to mic level : ART Pro Audio
it will also allow you to ground lift to remove hum if required!

[Les Wilson]

Originally Posted by Jonathan Levin

...Les, I think for VO, I'd go for the mic>M-Audio Fastrack>Mac laptop. Or at least test this to see if it is OK for my use.....

Yup... understood. I like the cable approach too. With it you can get both mic and line level mini outputs from your FP33 without mods, just cables. You'll then have lots of flexibility for the future when you want to rig something else. A right angle plug on the mini end of your custom cable will help a little with strain on your camera's mic socket as long as the camera has clearance for the plug.

[Richard Crowley]

Originally Posted by Jonathan Levin

I gave at Redco a call and discussed the Y-cable option. They can put together a cable for about $30.00, but it would not have the DC voltage blocking capacitor. Apparently that is in case of an overload, but they claim they have not heard of any problems by not using the DC voltage blocking capacitor.

Note that the Panasonic HV30 does not provide "plug-in power", so the blocking capacitors are not needed in this application.

You could also do a quick-n-dirty by getting the attenuator cable from Radio Shack. It would knock the FP33 line-level down to mic-level for the camera. However, it is only mono, so only good for one channel (likely the left channel).
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2103841

For that matter, you could make (or have Redco make) an attenuating stereo 3.5mm cable. The "attenuator" consists of a pair of 25-cent resistors. The only issue being finding some place in the connector shell with enough space for the resistors. You could do it with conventional 3.5mm connectors by using 1/10th watt resistors, and putting two of them at each end.

[Rick Reineke]

"The only issue being finding some place in the connector shell with enough space for the resistor"
-- Yes indeed. I usually use Canare F-11 or F-12 or other large barrel 3.5mm plug or jack for making attenuating cables. Makes it a lot easier to add resistors and caps.
Canare F-11 & F-12 Mini Phone Connectors at Markertek.com