yes please tell about how you took apart the cd player... that could be a much easier/better alternative to this radio shack mottor stuff...

<<<-- Originally posted by Noah Posnick : Could anyone please give some recomendations for a "macro filter" for the Canon GL1 that will allow me to keep the camera focused while zoomed in at a short distance. -->>>

Century Optics makes 2x, 4x and 7x macro adapters. They do not come cheap, though -- $210 from B&H.

I'm making an Agus35 Pro for my GL-1 without a macro adapter. I'll let you know if/how I get it to work.

- jim

What is the concept here? Are there any publications out that can summarize the idea of the mini35? I tried holding a SLR lens to my Cam's lens and i get a blurred image.

Thanks

<<<-- Originally posted by Yang Wen : What is the concept here?-->>>

The concept is that you use your DV camera to record a 35mm image suspended on a semi-permeable screen.

That's it.

How you get that done best is up to you, though Agus's method is a good one - use a clear disc that is sanded to a 'frosted' surface and spin it through the beam of light passing through a 35mm lens. The disc suspends the image in mid-air, for your miniDV camera to focus on. You set the focus on your DV camera manually, and use the 35mm lens to pull focus with.

Some thoughts:

People seem to be thinking of ways to upright the image and confining their answers to the adapter. Why not use mirrors mounted via a hood on the LCD screen to upright the image?

You could sand the disc irregularly, leaving gaps that are entirely clear, or place black tape on the disc, too. With this you might get some interesting strobe effects, like the lower shutter speeds on the Sony cams.

The disc could be multi-colored, or you could use multiple discs of different colors instead of filters.

- jim

I'll try again...
 

What sort of SLR lens are you guys who have succeeded used?

THere are tons of them for sale in pawn shops for cheap, but I don't know which one to buy.

One guy answered 50mm, that's fine, but I noticed some that are 1:1.8 and some that are 1:2.8

I don't know what those ratios mean, so if someone could enlighten me, I'd appreciate it.

Jeremiah

Jeremiah, you could as a experienced photographer, he will tell you how to choose lens for each type filming needs.

Jim, once you build it, you will notice that the speed of the disc spinning will be the shutter speed. I can tell for sure about that cause my TRV18 have manual shutter speed, and i its broken, so i cannot use manual focus to try another AE programs.


Still, i hope this week i will able to work on the plans to post it, also i have news that a comercial version with with real ground glass, no audio noise from the motor, and with full mounting like the mini35 is on planning stage... we are projecting the whole package under 800 bucks

not to belabor...
 

Not to beat the point to death...but it shouldn't be difficult for you who have succeded to hold up your lens, read the ratio off of the side of the lens, and report it on this board.

Even if you can't explain what the 1:1.7 or 1:2.0 means, you should be able to at least read the side of your lens.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate the thread and the work that people have put into it. (I remember a similar thread back on alt.movies.independent a couple years ago), but before I go buy an SLR lens, I'd like to make sure I can get one that works.

Jeremiah

1:1.8 etc. is the maximum aperture opening I believe. This basically means how much light you can allow to pass through the lens. I think that for this particular use, the more light coming through the lens, the better. So the where the ratio is 1:X, the lower the X the better. 1.8 is a good number.

mg

thanks...
 

Cool beans...I appreciate the pointer.

Threre's a store here in town started by a bunch of mini-storage owners, who are selling off the stuff from the people who didn't pay their bills.

They have some interesting stuff from time to time.

Jeremiah

My minolta lens are 50mm 1:2 and i get no vigneting.

So this clear disk has to be in a light proof casing correct? Otherwise, the outside light would bleach out the projected image from the SLR lens. Correct? and how far should this spinning disk be from your Camcorder lens? is it dependent on the camcorder lens and better done with a trial and error strategy?

check out this lens, you can also have zoom, and it have a good aperture size.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...u=61424&is=REG

<<<-- Originally posted by Yang Wen : So this clear disk has to be in a light proof casing correct? Otherwise, the outside light would bleach out the projected image from the SLR lens. Correct? and how far should this spinning disk be from your Camcorder lens? is it dependent on the camcorder lens and better done with a trial and error strategy? -->>>

Trial and error strategy, made all this posible :-)

OK...

[nevermind]

- jim

My ghetto attempt
 

Ok I grabbed a fake CD thing from my spindle and got my Sigma 35-135 AF zoom lens and just held the two things up in front of my DVX100. I had the DVX's lense focus into macro-mode and the CD was in focus but As you can see, there is incredible vignetting. It seems I can only get a small round image to project. What is the trick of having the 35mm lens image fill the entire frame?

http://www.umich.edu/~ywenz/DVX/GhettoAttempt.wmv

thanks