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Old February 5th, 2004, 10:35 AM   #901
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I took my mini50 (project-box design) out a few days ago and I have some images of it and the shoot, but no hosting. I've emailed Chris, but for some reason I haven't haven't recieved a reply. If any one has some hosting solutions/suggestions, I'd like to put them up.

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Old February 5th, 2004, 01:48 PM   #902
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Isaiah's Mini 50 Pix

Isaiah's Mini 50 Pix
www.moorefilms.com/isaiah.htm
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Old February 5th, 2004, 02:41 PM   #903
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Thanks to Taylor for hosting my images.

Some info on my setup for the curious...
GL2
10x B+W Macro filter
Maxell frosted CD (with some nasty scratches near the center)
Minolta 1.7f 50mm MD 35mm lens on the front (open to 1.7 for the whole shoot)

There was a lot of light, Cam settings were:
autofocus on(dvcam was not manually focused on CD)
manual exposure
60i
f3.2 or there abouts
no gain

The images were deinterlaced using Jim Lafferty's "manual deinterlace" method in FCP 4.1.1, exported as an uncompressed, deinterlaced tif from FCP, and flipped h+v and saved as jpegs (with quality 100) in photoshop. Other than that, I did not manipulate these images in FCP or photoshop in any way.

About the video itself: all handheld, rather shaky and full of a lot of me fumbling with focus and shooting upside down and backward. Its not pretty, but if you really think it'd be informative, I'll put some of it up.

This is the first time I really got out and used my mini50 (Agus50?), so a lot of improvement is needed. Getting alignment/proper positioning of camera to cd-plane is critical to avoid vignetting/distortion. My rig is adjustable in this regard, but I failed to spend enough time beforehand so there is noticable vignetting, esp. in bright shots. Also my plastic CD is just not flat enough, and I think every time I use it it just gets worse. But I'm not looking for/don't need perfection (thankfully). Thanks to Agus and Daniel and everyone for their inspiration and ideas.

-Isaiah
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Old February 5th, 2004, 03:18 PM   #904
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Super crazy something

Is it possible to use the formula agus35 to make two, for even more focal length?

camera|agus35|agus35

I know that the light loss would be significant, but, it would be interesting to see just how shallow we could get it.
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Old February 5th, 2004, 03:26 PM   #905
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Is it possible to use the formula agus35 to make two, for even more focal length?

camera|agus35|agus35

I know that the light loss would be significant, but, it would be interesting to see just how shallow we could get it.



Why not just use ND filters.
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Old February 5th, 2004, 05:36 PM   #906
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Thanks Taylor for hosting the pics.

Really interesting stuff here--- seems like you are getting a good focal plane area and not a super shallow DOF.
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Old February 5th, 2004, 08:28 PM   #907
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isaiah video Mini50

Here is the video, looks good.

http://www.moorefilms.com/isaiahvid.htm
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Old February 5th, 2004, 11:16 PM   #908
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Isaiah-
Great looking footage. Real sharp in the middle. You can make your corners as sharp too if you switch to a ACHROMAT screw on macro of the same power. (Did someone hear a echo...? ;-)

What kind of camera are you using?

What was your target gate size?
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Old February 6th, 2004, 01:11 AM   #909
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Looks Great taylor!

A bit of darkness in the corners but overall Im impressed, great clarity.

what camera did you use?
what size UV filter?
what grit did you use on the GG?
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Old February 6th, 2004, 03:11 AM   #910
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Isiah. - Two cheap and mean methods of shooting with the Agus35. I'm assuming you are using a VX2000 or PD150 from your mention of DVCAM.

If not using the tripod turn the whole camcorder and Agus35 upside-down. The camera will tolerate this with one caveat. - Make sure the tape cassette enclosure is scrupulously clean so that the debris of projects past does not fall from dark bottom corners of the camcorder onto your tape and the moving guts of the camcorder.

About the only way to operate the whole assembly by this method is to use it a waist height like an olde box brownie using the LCD. Holding at eye height and using the eyepiece will have you shivering with fatigue in seconds. There is just too much outboard weight.

Another cheap method is to mount to the tripod as normal. Work the camcorder with your back to the subject, the lens and Agus assembly at your left under your shoulder and look at your LCD screen from this position. I have the advantage of being left-handed. (All cameras should be made that way.) By adjusting the LCD screen to face foward, it should be possible to have the image appear the right way up. As for the (CORRECTION) "rightway up method on tripod", waist to mid-chest height for the tripod is the most practical as higher means the LCD screen switches to inverted when you tilt it too far forward. It's a bit tricky to begin with but gets easier with practice. - Likewise with the camera controls.

However with both methods, people who stop and observe develop a confirmed belief that the camera operator is an idiot.

Experiments in a camera shop with erecting prisms for telescopes, both schmidt and roof type have not yielded anything so far. A Meade schmidt mated up to a 55mm prime lens projected the required image area but the cumulative optical path through the prism exceeded the focal length of the 55mm lenses onto the groundglass and was too narrow for the stage from groundglass to camcorder without extreme vignetting.

Seth. - There's nothing to stop you from trying but two generations of definition loss ??? Offtopic, they apparently did do this with early generation night vision, stacked the tubes to get more light amplification.
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Old February 6th, 2004, 04:25 AM   #911
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The image needs to be both flipped (U-D) AND mirrored (L-R) to appear correct to the operator. Heres a thread that has links to LCD's that can do just.

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthrea...threadid=20754
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Old February 6th, 2004, 11:22 AM   #912
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I'm using a GL2, sorry about about the dvcam reference.

I could have flipped the rack focus video h+v in post, but I haven't figured out a way to do it without slightly softening the image. As it is, I captured the footage, color corrected it, and exported it with quicktime conversion. If I want to flip it, I have to flip it, then deinterlace it to fix the fields, and color correct it, then export. This softens it up just a touch. So I thought I'd give you guys the sharper one. Using FCP4.1.1. I wish there was just a "reverse fields" option. The only such option I've found in FCP is tied to changing the clips speed.

As to my setup for this shot, its the same as last time. See my last post. Of note, I guess, is no fresnel. I took a lot of care to get the spinnning CD exactly the right distance from the 50mm lens. That distance is critical and you need to adjust the board while the CD is spinning (sp?), and eyeball the results on a big TV or at least the camera LCD to get it right

I'm confidant I can get rid of that vignetting by more carefully adjusting the camera to the exact center of the projection. The GL2 is so close to the CD (almost in the box), which I think is why I'm getting such good coverage from the 50mm. I'm stuck with the blurry edge/corner distortion until I shell out for an achromat.

I will get back to you on the gate dimensions.

Thanks for your advice and comments, and thanks again to Taylor for hosting my stuff.
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Old February 6th, 2004, 11:51 AM   #913
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ND filters

Even when you add the cost of making 2 agus' and the purchase of lighting equip. it would still be cheeper than trying to achieve this with ND filters. Unless anyone knows where to get a x16+ ND for under 200?
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Old February 6th, 2004, 01:04 PM   #914
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Seth you seemed to be throughing out and combining alot of terms here that dont have anything to do with each other. There is no such thing as a x16+ ND it you might be throwing alot of people off wth this information. Let me clarifty.

1)ND dont have power scale ratings like this

2)NDs alone will never give you even close to the DOF your looking for

3)+16 refers to the magnification rating for a screw on macro lens

4)x16 would be a much more powerful magnification rating than +16 because a +16 is closer to around 4x or 5x.
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Old February 6th, 2004, 03:38 PM   #915
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ND missunderstanding

I'm sorry Brett, you misunderstood..

When I was referring to X16+, I was just trying to say a "times 16 or greater" and that was probably my mistake.

I agree with your statement on "NDs alone will never give you even close to the DOF your looking for".

When I posted, I was just trying to make others understand that it wasnít even an option, AT ANY LEVEL, for how much it costs. I didnít even desire to debate on that topic of ND usefulness, but thank you nonetheless for understanding what I want to do.
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