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Old May 10th, 2006, 11:55 PM   #1381
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Bob,
I had to click cancel cancel cancel to get the pop ups off the way, could you please use something else instead of File Factory, it's very annoying.

Besides, still couldn't find the file .. sorry.
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Old May 11th, 2006, 07:11 AM   #1382
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Savefile.com was the only site which would accept the uploads from my sorry excuse for an internet computer. If you were looking at File Factory for my stuff you would not have been able to find it there.

I think you will find most of the free file archiving sites will have advertising or pop-ups in some form or another as this is the only means they will have of paying their way. Like free-to-air television, there is no such thing as a free lunch. Advertisement is a hassle and chore to be rid of but we would not have many of these things without it.

I've got to go on the Cage shoot again tomorrow. I'll see what I can find over the weekend as alternatives.
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Old May 14th, 2006, 02:37 AM   #1383
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Have just finished milling up a new block for the 62mm hypotenuse ( = approx 30mm usable half-hypotenuse ) x 32mm common thickness right-angle prisms. The material I have used is 10mm thick black phenolic board as used in electrical work.

On zoom-back with the FX1, there is clearance between the image of the peak of the rear prism and the gg frame but on zoom-in, this peak encroaches into the visible image path. It falls away out of frame to the left lower and on full zoom-in is well gone.

So far it looks like this arrangement with the 7+ doptre will yield a blemish-free image width of 28mm off the groundglass with the opportunity of a small amount of zoom range for framing adjustments.
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Old May 21st, 2006, 08:05 AM   #1384
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On set of "The Cage" again today. The location is a 1920's vintage family home in Nedlands which is soon for demolition. As co-incidence would have it the building is a style which was known as a California bungalow.

We had to trim down a stuck door which hasn't closed in a long time. All the doors and a lot of the moldings have been done in oregon pine and the build quality is by hand and heaps better than anything you would see in consumer housing today. All the doors are still straight and the moldings and an overhad verander beam is as straight as the day it was put there.

Leelu gets to terminate her man in today's scene. There was some good action.

Tried the AGUS machine up againsat the JVC and the standard Funjion lens with the 7+ dioptre on front has plenty of zoom through.

I also found that if one is prepared to live with the a little of the hot spot, light to centre or overlight the edges, zoom-back from the groundglass with the f4 12mm - 24mm Nikon lens on front, set to wide, yields an almost bizarre field of view especially when shooting down from a higher position onto action.
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Old May 21st, 2006, 03:41 PM   #1385
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Show us a screencap of that, love to see it!
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Old May 22nd, 2006, 09:35 AM   #1386
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Bill.

In the hasty grammar of my post I have perpetrated a confusion.

The wide-angle was on the FX1 not the JVC, but on the JVC it would have the same characteristic.

The SLR lens was the Nikon 12/24mm f4 zoom. As an Agus lens it is only just good enough and needs a lot of light.

It is one of those lenses (I momentarily have forgotten the correct definition)where lines along the edge of the image are straight and there is a sort of perspective stretch which confers an interesting effect when looking down into a room from the vantage point of a kitchen benchtop.

I'll post a screen grab in about three days when time permits.
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Old May 26th, 2006, 10:03 PM   #1387
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Bill.

Do you want the frame grabs as email attachments or are you content to download them from savefile.com. If you want them as email attachements could you provide an email address. This email service here does not seem to provide for attachments.

The DP on "The Cage" had a play with the cam between takes and was quite impressed with the wideangle ability with the 12-24mm on the AGUS35 into the FX1 despite its other faults.

It would probably work a lot better with a condenser but my design does not permit a simple condenser to be added in as the prisms take up too much space in the available close-up (macro) lens to groundglass stage of the path.
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Old May 27th, 2006, 10:08 PM   #1388
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My Adapter

Finally, I've done mine based on the mediachance design. Here are the the screenshots:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../Imagezero.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rk8/Image4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...rk8/Image2.jpg


Shots were taken without any lighting set up. Only the flourescents lit the room. And No post processing was done yet.

I'll post some pics of my adapter soon.
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Old May 28th, 2006, 07:26 AM   #1389
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Julius.


What videocamera are you using.? Pics look good.

Could you describe the image path?

My device is pretty much along the lines of Agus Casse's original with some enhancements. Image path description follows :-

Nikon f1.8 SLR lens >> [ plus 46.5mm to ] >> CD-R sized groundglass AO5 finish >> 2 x 40mm x 40mm x 56mm x 40mm common thickness right-angle prisms in 90 degree opposition (to flip image) >> [approximately 120mm in prism path but shorter in real distance] >> 7+ Century Optics achromatic dioptre >> camcorder. [ FX1 lens focus comes in at about 1.6M as displayed in the LCD. ]
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Old May 28th, 2006, 11:04 AM   #1390
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My Adapter

Bob,

Good day. I've been using the VX2000 and the image path description follows:

Canon FD 50mm lens>>frosted cd>>Kenko macro lens(removed from the wide angle lens)>>vx2000.

I have not yet measured the distance between the lens, ground glass and the camera. I will take time to measure it soon.

Am still dealing with the flipped image and just have it corrected in the post.

Here are the images of my adapter.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006003.jpg

The parts;

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006007.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006009.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006011.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006014.jpg

I have used two AAA batteries and provided a toggle switch for speed control by simply toggling it to 1 battery for low speed and 2 batteries for high speed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006018.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006017.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...5282006015.jpg
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Old May 29th, 2006, 02:35 AM   #1391
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Julius.

The project box. - People have had good results with home-mades based on this method, plus a stout piece of board as you have done to firm things up a bit to deal with any vibrations such as they are. The CD-Rs are generally trouble free for vibration, but a bit of mass dampening doesn't do any harm.

I observe you have the disk motor above the lens centreline. This is a working solution for the non-flip version but might add to a sound problem as any motor noise is more in-line with the mike pickup pattern and also may tend to mask off the mike from your sound source.

If you use a separate mike, then this is a non-issue.

You may find that if you later add a prism path, you may have to bring the disk motor below, as the prisms also shorten the physical distance between the front of camcorder and the groundglass which may bring the case against the in-camera mike.

The bridge support beneath the camera and adaptor is a good move as you can rebalance the whole thing central on the tripod by drilling and tapping a hole in the bridge support.

This is the route I went for tripod work. There are two tripod mount holes, the standard small camcorder size and the larger and I tapped these into a 5" x 2" x 5/16" piece of aluminium flat bar which I fixed to the wooden bridge support with four corner screws.

I don't know the Kenko but I suspect the rear lens used in the close-up (macro) mode is a single element (one piece of glass) as there is a slight colour smear in the image where the chair frame is in sharp focus.

The colour smear (chromatic abberation??? somebody correct me here) is the signature of a single element lens when a high contrast edge is encountered in the image.

An achromatic dioptre does not have this defect but you may not be able to get one of the same magnification power as your current lens so you may have to remake the camcorder-to-project box section if another macro lens is used.

What you have works. Enjoy, as undoubtedly you will.
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Old May 29th, 2006, 11:43 AM   #1392
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An update on the slow progress of designing the larger prisms into the old device for a better 16:9 image for the Sony FX1/Z1P --.

Due to the greater depth of the rear (forward facing) prism (+3mm for the half-hypotenuse), the prism block has to be moved forward in the case about 4mm to maintain clearance of the +7 dioptre on the camera.

The position of the rear prism in the block is about 1mm furthur back than in the older version because the block is thinner.

Initial tests shooting the aerial image demonstrated that the vignette from the 28mm Sigma for Nikon f1.8 lens clears the allscan area in the viewfinder at about position 35mm on the zoom-in.

For the recovered image from the groundglass, this should yield a usable image from a wider zoom back from the groundglass which in turn should assist resolution.

The prism path remains limited to about 30mm width, not much of an advance over the 26mm from the old prisms however this area is clear of any internal reflections and ghost artifacts which were sometimes present with the older prisms under certain lighting conditions.

It may not be necessary to relocate the groundglass backfocussed position as the front face of the prism block is about the same as for the original thicker block with the old prisms.

The groundglass and motor have yet to be installed.

Designing a reliable adaptor mount for the JVC HD100 standard lens is proving to be a headache. I endorse Quyen's committment to using a fixed relay lens in the JVC version.
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Old May 30th, 2006, 09:09 AM   #1393
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A quick hint for anyone going through the ordeal of cutting plastic pipe caps with precision.

A Dremel with a small drill bit of 1mm diam or thereabouts held backhand so that the shank end or upper part of the drill leads and the drilling end of the bit trails, inclined at about 45degrees works quite well as a fast precise cutter. Use the incline to lead the cut. Don't force too fast or the material will melt and widen the cut. Don't dwell too long in one spot or go too slowly or the same thing happens.
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Old May 31st, 2006, 01:28 PM   #1394
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Tests with the groundglass installed match the aerial image tests with the zoom range of the FX1 from about 35mm to 50mm+ available for subtle reframing of the subject.

Wider than 35mm on the camcorder zoom picks up the edges of the vertical prism and the edges of the lens hot spot.

For some as yet unknown reason, this version seems more sensitive to dust and fingermarks on the groundglass.
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Old June 1st, 2006, 07:11 AM   #1395
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Furthur tests in daylight conditions at 4pm suggest that the usable camcorder zoom range can be from 28mm - the max of 54mm with the best of the f1.8 lenses, the Nikon 85mm.

This is a much larger image than the aerial image which is limited by the width of the port which the prism face rests against.

At this point the disk edge in my current design comes into the bottom of the frame also the corners begin to darken.

There is enough useful zoom range for the 20mm, 28mm, 50mm and 85mm lens images to almost overlap in framing.
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