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-   -   Homemade 35mm -- Edited Copy for Reading (https://www.dvinfo.net/forum/alternative-imaging-methods/18950-homemade-35mm-edited-copy-reading.html)

Jean-Philippe Archibald December 9th, 2003 12:31 PM

Richard, where did you find this support? Do you have a part number, or any infos to help us to find a similar one?

Richard Mellor December 9th, 2003 12:40 PM

the model number is:3420 telephoto lens support and it is made by manfrotto

Paul Bettner December 9th, 2003 01:37 PM

This is too funny - it's almost as if this was made for the Agus35 :-)

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=126662&is=REG

paulb

Jim Lafferty December 9th, 2003 02:12 PM

<<<-- Originally posted by Chris Hurd : Richard Mellor's most recent photos: -->>>

That's great. I'm assembling the rod system for my Agus35 Pro now, and I'm using a velcro strap from Home Depot ($4), too.

I found a used Nikon f/1.4 lens today for $120, and picked it up. Now I'm scouring eBay for an old Nikon body for sale - a lot of them that are damaged will go for $20 or so, which significantly undercuts the cost of the F-to-C mount adapter. I picked up a jeweler's screwdriver for $6 from Home Depot today and it should allow me to disassemble the bayonet mount with ease.

More to come soon...

- jim

Aaron Koolen December 9th, 2003 03:01 PM

Ok, maybe I'm missing something but why are people looking for F to C adapters? Is this so you can have a standard lens mount on the outside of your Agus35 but still use F mount lenses if you need to? Because the Agus35 fits between cam and lens other than that reason I don't see any other need for a lens adapter.


Aaron

Noah Posnick December 9th, 2003 03:15 PM

It's so that if people want to be able to interchange the lenses easily, they can. Without it you'll be gluing your lense straight to the mount. This way it gives people the option of not limiting the lense to only this adapter and also gives people the ability to choose different lenses.

Jim Lafferty December 9th, 2003 05:40 PM

<<<-- Originally posted by Chris Black : Seems like it would have to be at least 7 or 8 inches away before you could start to focus? .....Can you explain how you are achieving the focus at such a close proximity?

thanks,

chris -->>>

Chris -- you need a macro adapter, which allows your camera to get focus at objects less than an inch or two away from your lens.

Agus is using a wide-angle/macro adapter built for the small, 1-chip Sony cams - it goes for about $35 off of eBay, I think. The unit is two pieces - a small macro attachment that sits behind a wide-angle attachment - they screw apart, giving you access to the macros function. Depending on the size of your cam, the adapter is threaded for 37mm, and you may need a step-up ring.

If you have a GL1/GL2 or another camera with 58mm threading, Century Optics makes macro adapters going for $210.

- jim

Danny Tan December 9th, 2003 07:28 PM

Hey, i drew a diagram of how I THINK it is built like. agus, plz let us know if it is correct. and i also have 1 question, how are you keep the entire thing connected to the camera lense? doesn't it fall off?

http://www.metafilms.net/upload_images/agus35.gif

or link: http://www.metafilms.net/upload_images/agus35.gif

Chris Hurd December 9th, 2003 07:35 PM

The GL2 does in fact have a superb built-in macro mode. Take off the lens hood, zoom out all the way to full wide. As long as there's enough light, the auto focus will pull in objects tack-sharp right to the surface of the glass. I've shown this feature to people many times, and it works great!

Dale Anthony Smith December 9th, 2003 11:53 PM

Instead of ground glass or sandblasting or the like... what about using some FROSTED MILAR film. I've used it for shooting rear projected slides and as a diffuser for shooting HD from 4X5 transparencies. for the thin film I sandwiched it between glass or just taped it to one side of a glass sheet. You might be able to go with a plastic that's thicker and avoid the glass altogether.... Just a thought

Jim Lafferty December 10th, 2003 08:36 AM

<<<-- Originally posted by Chris Hurd : The GL2 does in fact have a superb built-in macro mode. Take off the lens hood, zoom out all the way to full wide. As long as there's enough light, the auto focus will pull in objects tack-sharp right to the surface of the glass. I've shown this feature to people many times, and it works great! -->>>

This won't work with the Agus35, though, as you need to zoom in on the suspended picture (not out), and you're not going to have a lot of light at your disposal. Which leads me to...

<<<-- Also, I've been searching ebay for a 35mm lens to buy, and got lost in the hundreds of options...what are some good lenses for the Agus35 setup? -->>>

You want to get the fastest lens around, which for a reasonable price would be a f/1.4. There are new, faster lenses - a new f/1.2 runs for about $560 new, half that used, but f/1.4's go for about $120.

Incidently, Canon makes an f/1 that goes for $2,600!

Re: the frosted mylar - where can we get some?

- jim

Stewart McDonald December 10th, 2003 08:59 AM

Would an f/1.8 lens do?

About the focussing using Gl2, how about if you brought the projected image closer to the lens so you don't have to zoom in on it? You can then manually focus whilst in macro mode to focus the image?

Jim Lafferty December 10th, 2003 10:39 AM

<<<-- Originally posted by Chris Black : <<<-- The GL2 does in fact have a superb built-in macro mode. -->>>


Sure enough. I tested the gl2's macro capability ...and it's amazing ......i took a piece of paper with writing on it ... ....took off the lens hood ........and literally held the piece of paper about 1/8th of an inch from the lens ...and it focused perfectly ....crisp and clear. ....

thanks chris ..



chris -->>>

You both seem to be missing the point, though: you cannot simultaneously engage the Gl1/Gl2's "macro mode" WHILE filling the frame with the suspended 35mm image.

You have to zoom IN, not out, in order to get the projected image large enough so that it encompasses the entire frame of your DV camera, while simultaneously remaining in focus manually. This way, you do not get vignetting or a black, circular border in your DV frame.

Auto focus will not work, as the camera is constantly receiving different information about what to focus on - the spinning disc, the image on the disc, the footage coming through the hole, etc.

I'd love to be proven wrong, and then I wouldn't have to spend $210 on a macro zoom (or $100 on an appropriate magnifying glass.)

- jim

Chris Hurd December 10th, 2003 10:53 AM

Indeed, GL2's macro works only at full-wide angle.

Chris Black December 10th, 2003 11:12 AM

I did a few more basic tests with the gl2 macro function. ......Like it has been pointed out, in order for the macro to work properly, you must be zoomed all the way out. But at that point .....you can literally hold your subject up against the end of the lens housing ..and it stays in focus .........so ....couldnt you just mount the camera close enough to the spinning cd ...that you wouldnt have to zoom? .... ............

the next thing i tried was .......moving the subject about 2 to 3 inches from the camera lens .........I then was able to zoom in about half of the gl2's optical range (Not sure if the camera was still in macro mode or not)....and still have the subject clearly in focus. .....I'm not sure if this would be enough zoom to eliminate the vignetting.....


I plan on building an Agus35 for my gl2 ....but it will probably be 2 or 3 weeks before I can get to it. I will definitely include details photos and descriptions of the process.

Chris


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