35mm Adapter Static Aldu35

Jonathon Wilson · February 26th, 2004, 04:35 PM

Alain, feel free to reply to me off list, as its off-topic, but I'd be interested in talking with you about what you used (soft-synths, 'hard' synths, etc.) I do a bunch of this too, and liked your sound.

-Jonathon (jonathon@aqua-web.com)

John Heskett · February 26th, 2004, 05:36 PM

Alain, could you give some specific information on the condenser you used, (specs and placement). If it worked for you, then I may duplicate what you used.

Alain Dumais · February 26th, 2004, 08:39 PM

It,s 29mm X 21mm, the condenser are from a Petri Aux Telephoto Lens 1:1.94.5cm

it is not a achromat. And the curve are facing the gg.

Alain

Tavis Shaver · February 26th, 2004, 11:19 PM

Alain, would you be kind enough to give us the breakdown of your setup, order, lenses, macro, etc? Your latest vid is extrordinary, nice work!

Alain Dumais · February 26th, 2004, 11:33 PM

SLR lens -> GG -> Condenser -> -> Macro -> DV

Alain

Joe Holt · February 27th, 2004, 07:40 AM

If anyone is still struggling to get the glass element out of their filter mount, don't shell out $60+ for the "Special tool". You can make it out of a scrap piece of wood and 2 screw bits for a cordless drill. It took me less than 5 minutes to make.

1. Start with a 3.5" - 5" x 1" x 1.5" piece of wood. I just cut a scrap piece of 1 x 2 pine to 5"

2. Measure the exact distance between the outsides of the two opposite notches on the filter mount. (this should be where each notch meets the outside lip of the mount)

3. Mark your wood with your notch placement.

4. Using a 15/64" drill bit (this is smaller than the diameter of the screw bits), drill two holes approx. .25"-.5" deep into the wood. PLace these holes so the outside of the hole is aligned with the outside of your notch markings on the wood.

5. Take your 2 regular(flat blade) screw bits and softly pound them into the wood. Be sure they are parrallel to each other and the long axis of the wood.

If you do it right, the outside edges of your screw bits should each set into the notches with the excess length of the blades extending to the inside, harmlessly above your filter.
As Alain suggested earlier, use a table vise to hold your filter steady while you apply force down and turn counter clockwise. Be carefull not to clamp down too hard with the vice as this might bind the tiny threads of the filter mount. Also, be sure to test the screw bit blade tips to see if they fit inside the notches before pounding them into the wood. If you goof, you'll be able to recover your screw bits but you'll have to cut a new piece of wood. I hope this helps someone. Joe

Jim Lafferty · February 27th, 2004, 09:20 AM

<<<-- Originally posted by Joe Holt : If anyone is still struggling to get the glass element out of their filter mount...

Joe -->>>

I've found an even better answer provided you haven't bought the filter yet -- purchase a Canon UV Haze filter -- they've got a wire that is pressure fitted serving as their retainer ring. With a jeweler's screwdriver it's very easy to pop out:

http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/canonfilter.jpg

http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/imag...ilter-rear.jpg

http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/retainer.jpg

http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/tool.jpg

http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/glass.jpg

http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/frost-1.jpg

http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/frost-2.jpg

I've started to round out my tutorial, btw -- http://ideaspora.net/aldu35

- jim

Josh Brusin · February 27th, 2004, 11:03 AM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2989241758&category=30066

this looked like it could be somehow useful.

Josh Brusin · February 27th, 2004, 12:02 PM

seen them cheaper than the going rate (around $20)... not that pvc would be cheaper still... thinking ground glass holder flipped around>?

Jonathon Wilson · February 27th, 2004, 02:17 PM

By the way, Jim - that tutorial is looking nice :) Thanks for the work on it. Nice to have it all summed up so concisely.

Tavis Shaver · February 27th, 2004, 02:22 PM

i totally concur, the tutorial looks great so far man!

Kevin Burnfield · February 27th, 2004, 02:35 PM

Wow, Jim, GREAT work. thanks!

That GL1 mount, I guess it's not the same as an XL1, right?

I'm still trying to get my brain around all the technical details......

Brett Erskine · February 27th, 2004, 03:05 PM

Jim-
Hey great job! Thanks for doing that for everyone. Your housing is a very similar design to mine except Im using flat black aluminum tubing with finer threads. It allows for not only for finer adjustments in focus but is designed to screw right on the existing threads of both the camera and any filter rings (no glue needed). The finer your threads the less likely you will have any play in your adapter after you find focus. But I really like the type of PVC your using. PVC would be incredibly easy to find and cheap to buy so good job!

I didnt notice any type of condenser lens on your website. Are you not planning to use one? Also in the text on your website you say:

"Continue grinding, both sides if you have to, until you've got a uniformly frosted surface"

I hope your not talking about the round filter glass because if you grind both sides of that your going to have soft/diffused images. The reason being is that light from the 35mm lens will hit the first surface of the ground glass and spead out thenhit the second surface of ground glass on the other side of the filter. Bottom line...it wont look sharp. If Im miss understanding you then other might be as well. Try rewording that line so its not too confusing. Thanks again for putting that together for everyone.

-B

Frank Ladner · February 27th, 2004, 03:11 PM

Hey guys!

Still no condenser for me. I have been trying to get one from an old SLR to avoid purchasing one.

However, I took my setup and put a regular lens (don't know what to call it - it's just one of the regular lenses out of some old camera.) behind the ground glass, inbetween the adapter and my GL2. Just doing this made a big difference (Don't have a bright hotspot, but more even light distribution), so I am really wanting a condenser now.

Let me try to illustrate this with ASCII art.

Ground Glass + Condenser Lens:
|| |)

Ground Glass + Other Lens(my setup):
|| ))

So, if that makes any sense, you can see that I am using the lens with the concave side against the ground glass. There is no space between the lens and the glass, by the way.
Now, I don't know optics formulas and such, but I'm just trying different things with what I have, to see what gives the best image.

After reading all this about 1000 grit Aluminum Oxide, I called the Rock Shed and ordered some. I'm assuming it would be alright to grind over my current ground glass (done with 600 grit). Is there any reason I should start with a new UV filter and do straight 1000 grit?

Thanks!

,Frank

Jonathon Wilson · February 27th, 2004, 03:13 PM

Brett - I've been trying to find fine-threaded metric-measured aluminum tubing just like you describe... with no luck. Any tips on your source? I'm working with PVC at the moment. I have the focusable 35mm to GG link, but the coarseness of the threads leaves a bit to be desired. I've heard that using some paint on one (probably the male) set of threads adds some 'stickiness' which may help tighten things up.

However, I'd ideally like to build it with matte-black, aluminum, fine-threaded tubing, if I could only find some (hint) :)

February 26th, 2004, 05:36 PM	#362
John Heskett Regular Crew Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Terre Haute Indiana Posts: 181	Alain, could you give some specific information on the condenser you used, (specs and placement). If it worked for you, then I may duplicate what you used. __________________ Illuminate the Vision

February 26th, 2004, 08:39 PM	#363
Alain Dumais Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Montreal Canada Posts: 86	Brett It,s 29mm X 21mm, the condenser are from a Petri Aux Telephoto Lens 1:1.94.5cm it is not a achromat. And the curve are facing the gg. Alain __________________ http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/

February 26th, 2004, 11:33 PM	#365
Alain Dumais Regular Crew Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Montreal Canada Posts: 86	SLR lens -> GG -> Condenser -> -> Macro -> DV Alain __________________ http://www.kheops-tech.com/~ad3d/

February 27th, 2004, 07:40 AM	#366
Joe Holt Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Sylva, North Carolina Posts: 153	homemade filter tool If anyone is still struggling to get the glass element out of their filter mount, don't shell out $60+ for the "Special tool". You can make it out of a scrap piece of wood and 2 screw bits for a cordless drill. It took me less than 5 minutes to make. 1. Start with a 3.5" - 5" x 1" x 1.5" piece of wood. I just cut a scrap piece of 1 x 2 pine to 5" 2. Measure the exact distance between the outsides of the two opposite notches on the filter mount. (this should be where each notch meets the outside lip of the mount) 3. Mark your wood with your notch placement. 4. Using a 15/64" drill bit (this is smaller than the diameter of the screw bits), drill two holes approx. .25"-.5" deep into the wood. PLace these holes so the outside of the hole is aligned with the outside of your notch markings on the wood. 5. Take your 2 regular(flat blade) screw bits and softly pound them into the wood. Be sure they are parrallel to each other and the long axis of the wood. If you do it right, the outside edges of your screw bits should each set into the notches with the excess length of the blades extending to the inside, harmlessly above your filter. As Alain suggested earlier, use a table vise to hold your filter steady while you apply force down and turn counter clockwise. Be carefull not to clamp down too hard with the vice as this might bind the tiny threads of the filter mount. Also, be sure to test the screw bit blade tips to see if they fit inside the notches before pounding them into the wood. If you goof, you'll be able to recover your screw bits but you'll have to cut a new piece of wood. I hope this helps someone. Joe

February 27th, 2004, 09:20 AM	#367
Jim Lafferty Major Player Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Brooklyn, NY Posts: 636	Re: homemade filter tool <<<-- Originally posted by Joe Holt : If anyone is still struggling to get the glass element out of their filter mount... Joe -->>> I've found an even better answer provided you haven't bought the filter yet -- purchase a Canon UV Haze filter -- they've got a wire that is pressure fitted serving as their retainer ring. With a jeweler's screwdriver it's very easy to pop out: http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/canonfilter.jpg http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/imag...ilter-rear.jpg http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/retainer.jpg http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/tool.jpg http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/glass.jpg http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/frost-1.jpg http://www.ideaspora.net/aldu35/images/frost-2.jpg I've started to round out my tutorial, btw -- http://ideaspora.net/aldu35 - jim __________________ Realism, anyway, is never exactly the same as reality, and in the cinema it is of necessity faked. -- J-L G

February 26th, 2004, 04:35 PM	#361
Jonathon Wilson Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 182	Alain, feel free to reply to me off list, as its off-topic, but I'd be interested in talking with you about what you used (soft-synths, 'hard' synths, etc.) I do a bunch of this too, and liked your sound. -Jonathon (jonathon@aqua-web.com)

February 26th, 2004, 11:19 PM	#364
Tavis Shaver Major Player Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Vancouver, BC. Canada Posts: 209	Alain, would you be kind enough to give us the breakdown of your setup, order, lenses, macro, etc? Your latest vid is extrordinary, nice work!

February 27th, 2004, 11:03 AM	#368
Josh Brusin Major Player Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 439	http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2989241758&category=30066 this looked like it could be somehow useful.

February 27th, 2004, 12:02 PM	#369
Josh Brusin Major Player Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Chicago, IL Posts: 439	seen them cheaper than the going rate (around $20)... not that pvc would be cheaper still... thinking ground glass holder flipped around>?

February 27th, 2004, 02:17 PM	#370
Jonathon Wilson Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 182	Tutorial looks good, Jim - By the way, Jim - that tutorial is looking nice :) Thanks for the work on it. Nice to have it all summed up so concisely.

February 27th, 2004, 02:22 PM	#371
Tavis Shaver Major Player Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Vancouver, BC. Canada Posts: 209	i totally concur, the tutorial looks great so far man!

February 27th, 2004, 02:35 PM	#372
Kevin Burnfield Major Player Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Princeton, NJ Posts: 363	Wow, Jim, GREAT work. thanks! That GL1 mount, I guess it's not the same as an XL1, right? I'm still trying to get my brain around all the technical details......

February 27th, 2004, 03:05 PM	#373
Brett Erskine Major Player Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Anaheim, CA Posts: 445	Jim's Website and PremiereVisions35 tube housing Jim- Hey great job! Thanks for doing that for everyone. Your housing is a very similar design to mine except Im using flat black aluminum tubing with finer threads. It allows for not only for finer adjustments in focus but is designed to screw right on the existing threads of both the camera and any filter rings (no glue needed). The finer your threads the less likely you will have any play in your adapter after you find focus. But I really like the type of PVC your using. PVC would be incredibly easy to find and cheap to buy so good job! I didnt notice any type of condenser lens on your website. Are you not planning to use one? Also in the text on your website you say: "Continue grinding, both sides if you have to, until you've got a uniformly frosted surface" I hope your not talking about the round filter glass because if you grind both sides of that your going to have soft/diffused images. The reason being is that light from the 35mm lens will hit the first surface of the ground glass and spead out thenhit the second surface of ground glass on the other side of the filter. Bottom line...it wont look sharp. If Im miss understanding you then other might be as well. Try rewording that line so its not too confusing. Thanks again for putting that together for everyone. -B

February 27th, 2004, 03:11 PM	#374
Frank Ladner Major Player Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Poplarville, MS Posts: 453	1000 grit Hey guys! Still no condenser for me. I have been trying to get one from an old SLR to avoid purchasing one. However, I took my setup and put a regular lens (don't know what to call it - it's just one of the regular lenses out of some old camera.) behind the ground glass, inbetween the adapter and my GL2. Just doing this made a big difference (Don't have a bright hotspot, but more even light distribution), so I am really wanting a condenser now. Let me try to illustrate this with ASCII art. Ground Glass + Condenser Lens: \|\| \|) Ground Glass + Other Lens(my setup): \|\| )) So, if that makes any sense, you can see that I am using the lens with the concave side against the ground glass. There is no space between the lens and the glass, by the way. Now, I don't know optics formulas and such, but I'm just trying different things with what I have, to see what gives the best image. After reading all this about 1000 grit Aluminum Oxide, I called the Rock Shed and ordered some. I'm assuming it would be alright to grind over my current ground glass (done with 600 grit). Is there any reason I should start with a new UV filter and do straight 1000 grit? Thanks! ,Frank

February 27th, 2004, 03:13 PM	#375
Jonathon Wilson Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 182	Source for Fine-threaded aluminum tubing? Brett - I've been trying to find fine-threaded metric-measured aluminum tubing just like you describe... with no luck. Any tips on your source? I'm working with PVC at the moment. I have the focusable 35mm to GG link, but the coarseness of the threads leaves a bit to be desired. I've heard that using some paint on one (probably the male) set of threads adds some 'stickiness' which may help tighten things up. However, I'd ideally like to build it with matte-black, aluminum, fine-threaded tubing, if I could only find some (hint) :)