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Old August 3rd, 2004, 03:37 PM   #1021
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i found some instructions here: http://ideaspora.net/aldu35/index.html

i get most of it but some parts are confusing. i have a Konica Hexanon AR 50mm F1.4 lens. pertaining to the instructions, i will need a F-Mount. the one the author of the instruction uses is this: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=77558&is=REG

i searched konica mounts at bhphoto and came up with these results: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?ci=1&sb=ps&pn=1&sq=desc&InitialSearch=yes&O=SearchBar&A=search&Q=*&shs=konica+mount

there are a number of mounts available and i don't know which one to get that will fit correctly. can someone let me know which one is the correct mount to get?

also a +7 diopter is needed. well i don't have $210 to get one from century optics. can someone link to me to a search on ebay that has +7 diopters for around $30? thx
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Old August 3rd, 2004, 11:04 PM   #1022
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Hi Danny,

I'm the author of the page you site:

The F-mount is for Nikon lenses only -- I don't know what kind of mount you'll need for your lens. At worst, you could call B&H and they'll know the answer -- or visit if you're in town.

For diopters/achromats/macros, check around on eBay -- cheaper ones can be found provided you know the threading size on yor cam (58mm if it's a GL1 or GL2). There are step-up rings available if you need them, e.g. from 55 to 58mm, and the like.

Your lens will have a different FFL than mine, incidentally. Check the chart linked on my site.

Also -- get better Aluminum Oxide than what I've rec'd on the site -- WAO 5 from gotgrit.com for $1.75 per 1/4lb (all you'll need and then some), and $6 shipping. WAO5 is GREAT, but takes a long time to grind out scratches (should they arise.)

- jim
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Old August 3rd, 2004, 11:52 PM   #1023
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hey jim, thx. i have the same camera as you so i shoulld be able to follow the instructions exactly. what should i search in ebay to find the diopters? i tried a few and didnt come up with anything.

and can you give the description/label of the pvc's you bought? im gonna go to home depot tomorrow to get some.
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Old August 3rd, 2004, 11:57 PM   #1024
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also would it be better to get a +10 diopter or a +7?
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Old August 4th, 2004, 12:43 PM   #1025
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Markings along the interior ridge of the female half of the PVC coupling (near the threading) are as follows:

NIBCO NSF dwv D2665 PVC I UPC(R) 4803 2 USA "2"

Where the 2 in quotes is actually a backwards 2, and the (R) is a reserved 'R' in a circle symbol. They come as a pair, so if you find this half, you just need to find the other component.

+10 diopter vs. +7 -- there's no answer I can give, as I've just the +7 and can't speak directly on the +10. Just note that power of diopters guage how close an object can sit relative to the lens. Also, there my be some adverse consequences to going too high with your diopter's power -- chromatic abberations at the image's edge, e.g.

As another aside: grind your glass as it's shown on my page and disregard the text that says "I've just discovered that it's possible to grind with the filter ontop of the glass..." This has proven erroneous.

Also, do not paint your adapter's interior black -- some other method of coloring would be best if possible, though plastic dyes or bonding paints are very expensive. You can Rit dye the coupling, though to get the dye to truly set, the dye bath must be simmering and things need to sit in the bath for 30+ minutes -- this has the adverse effect of shrinking the PVC, and the GG then needs to shrink (to 55mm) and the part of the coupling that slides over the diopter is no longer large enough to do so. You either then have to scoop out the rim's interior with a dremel or the like (a file works but is very tedious), or devise an altogether new way of attaching the setup to the cam.

Painting the setup, however, is a bad solution as the paint chips and falls onto the glass elements when you attach or detach the setup.

Good luck!

That's all for now,

- jim
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Old August 4th, 2004, 03:57 PM   #1026
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cant i just spray paint the outside?
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Old August 5th, 2004, 01:12 PM   #1027
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No. If the interior is left white, you run the risk of incidental light polluting your image. The interior must be a flat black.

You can paint the exterior in addition, if you'd like, to whatever you're successful with doing to the interior, but painting the interior is a bad call.

- jim
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Old August 5th, 2004, 01:19 PM   #1028
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powder coat
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Old August 5th, 2004, 03:31 PM   #1029
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That's a bit pricey, but potentially the "right" way to do it, Brett.

Rit dye, on the cheap, is a good solution provided you've got a smaller GG and a dremel.

There are plastic paints, as well, but they run in the neighborhood of a powder coating setup where price is concerned -- $135 for a bucket.

- jim
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Old August 5th, 2004, 03:53 PM   #1030
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Powder coating needs a conductive object to allow the electrostatic powder application to work. There *may* be a pre spray to give it some.
Also, Powder coating involves baking the part in an oven to melt the powder onto the object.
Things tend to melt!
Are these parts plastic ?
-Les
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Old August 5th, 2004, 08:42 PM   #1031
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If you are not too fussy about the surface finish and are careful not to paint on mounting or contact areas, it may be feasable to mix some black pigment into blue glue (PVC pipe cement) and paint the interior with that.

I haven't tried it and the substances may be chemically antagonistic. Another way might be to prime the interior with blue glue and paint over that. Blue glue is a BAD chemical in terms of health and longevity so use only in a well ventilated space and don't breath the fumes.

I went with a solvent based blackboard paint and it hasn't come off yet, but it may well do so in the future. I have used blackboard paint on glass and to stabilise it, I added some cooking oil which almost stops the setting process. Eventually it does set and come off but that takes three years worth of 43 degree C summers.
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Old August 6th, 2004, 09:03 AM   #1032
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holy macaroney!

www.de-interlaced.net/mini35

Check the bottom of the page.. just updated (2004-08-06)
Guys, you've got to help me know ;)

- Cheers
Eric
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Old August 6th, 2004, 02:14 PM   #1033
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Just sand the inside of the pvc, It will eliminate the reflections. It works best with black pvc, but it should take care of white too.
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Old August 6th, 2004, 02:47 PM   #1034
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1. Krylon makes spraypaint for plastics. So far I couldn't find a flat black (just gloss), but I suppose you could have a go with fine sandpaper after painting, to dull the finish.
2. I've used a cheapo flat black paint with no peeling. The trick was to use plastic primer first. That stuff is sold in automotive stores, it's used to prime bumpers and other plastic parts before painting. I think it is called 'adhesion promoter' or something like that. I'll give the exact name if I find the damn can...
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Old August 10th, 2004, 02:54 PM   #1035
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I can't find black PVC to save my life -- any suggestions? I've called the largest plumbing supply shops in both Brooklyn and Manhattan and only one of the ten or so shops had a piece (female) of 2" PVC coupling, and a few lengths of the pipe. Everyone else suggested I look for "poly pipe," meant for sprinkler systems, though it is somewhat flexible and the coupling is pressure-fitted, not screw-on.

The Krylon paint seems available only in a glossy finish, at least wherever I've called or seen it.

- jim
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