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Old June 8th, 2004, 10:19 PM   #46
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To Anders,
Yes, I meant to get a spare llens cap and adapt a cMount. Start with palstic, get the flange distant and upgrade to metal later
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Old June 9th, 2004, 04:06 AM   #47
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Ok - that sounds great! Do you know where or how I can get a hold of a c-mount adaptor for the XL-1?

About the macro - do you mean a complete 16mm macro lens or just a macro glass for 16 mm??

Thanks
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Old June 9th, 2004, 08:46 AM   #48
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Anders,
I don't know of any Cmount > xl1 adapters. My suggestion was to make one from a spare camera body cap and a metal adaptor you will incorporate in it. You can find some info about the flange distance of various mounts here:
http://www.gregssandbox.com/gtech/filmfacts/flange.htm.
Also I suggest to get a macro lens for, let's say Bolex, a Kilffit Macro lens. It is better to use a lens that is designed to work at close range in flat field environement. You can even consider an enlarging lens with M39 thread, but I will incline for lenses made to cover a small format closer to the 1/3 sensor of the XL1.
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Old June 10th, 2004, 02:53 AM   #49
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So here is an update on my progress.

I bought some pvc pipe, and found that 2" fits my 35mm lense like a glove. 58mm thread size will fit inside the pipe, and I used 2 uv filters to sandwich a piece of 216 (a different kind of diffusion, which seems to work a little better than hollywood frost)

So, I have a decent image in my ground glass, still a little vignetting happening, hopefully using real gg will solve that problem.

As far as the relay lens goes, this is what I've discovered:
even with +7 close up lens in any setup, whether wide, or tele, it is not enough to fill the frame. Having that much glass between the still lens, and my ccd is just stupid. So, I scratched the idea of trying to find something to put inbetween my lens and the gg.

And I tried something new. if you grab a still lense, and remove your lens from your camera, holding the still lens in front of the cdd, you can actually get a clear image. Problem is, its magnified so much, that its useless. I used a 50mm macro lens to no avail. I was able to get a full frame, but it was so telephoto it was worthless.

So, I grabbed a 16mm motion picture lens. This yeilded much better results. Still somewhat telephoto, but not nearly as much as 35mm.

So, my problem is, I need to figure out what 16mm lens I need. im not sure if I need a macro, because the lens I used seemed to already be functioning like a macro.

Any suggestions?
Anyone know where I can find any 16mm motion picture lenses?

Stephen
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Old June 10th, 2004, 03:36 AM   #50
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<<<-- Originally posted by Stephen Birdsong : Anyone know where I can find any 16mm motion picture lenses?

Stephen -->>>

Have a look on eBay. There are plenty. Also, EdmundOptics have a selection of close range lenses for 2/3 cameras.
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Old June 10th, 2004, 03:45 AM   #51
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Would an 8mm Bolex macro lens do? Or is it too small??

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Old June 10th, 2004, 03:53 AM   #52
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I don't know the size of the 8mm frame. If it is larger than 1/3 XL1 canon sensor, should be fine.
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Old June 10th, 2004, 03:59 AM   #53
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Actually wouldn't these lenses be perfect:

http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlinecatalog/displayproduct.cfm?productID=1546&search=1

or

http://www.edmundoptics.com/onlinecatalog/displayproduct.cfm?productID=1281&search=1

Which size would then work to our advantage?

Thanks
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Old June 10th, 2004, 04:39 PM   #54
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I have no idea. Only real way to find out would be to buy one.

My first incling is to say no. But on second thought, if it is that wide, then maybe you could stick it less than 1 inch from the GG.

That would rock, because the length of the total lense is something that we really need to keep down.

Working distance:
The distance between a subject and the lens surface.
Field of View
the size of the image that is visible. (not to be confused with the Angle of view, which is measured both in mm's and degrees. for example a 50mm focal length is an angle of view of 45 degrees)

Im definately in over my head, but Im trying to tread water.

Im guessing that we need a minimum working distance of under 1ft and i dont understand what field of view we need.

http://www.sweeting.org/mark/lenses/

if someone else can figure it out, go for it.

anders, i just wouldnt know which lense to buy.

Stephen
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Old June 11th, 2004, 02:39 AM   #55
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I would think that we need the widest lens, (the one with Angular FOV >43)

But I have no idea nor the money to test several lenses!

You are right - we need help from somebody who really know optics!

Could somebody please help!!?

Thanks
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Old June 11th, 2004, 10:19 PM   #56
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One type of lens I saw used in capturing the groundglass for the video taps on 35mm movie cameras is a Cosmicar brand. Don't know the model number yet.
Also, this site will give a crash course in optics and how to calculate FOV and whatever...
http://www.1394imaging.com/resources...4b2e8d354d986f
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Old July 13th, 2004, 03:08 PM   #57
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I see stuff for most of the other cameras going on here but nothing on the XL1's, I just don't have the brain or fabricating skillsets to come up with my own options, Is anyone working on an XL1 option??
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Old July 16th, 2004, 12:33 PM   #58
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anyone done anything new with their XL1 35mm adapters???
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Old July 16th, 2004, 12:42 PM   #59
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no, I've all but given up.

stephen
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Old July 16th, 2004, 01:20 PM   #60
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if you need help...

just ask. i've built 2, now finishing up my 3rd 35mm adapter... i had accidently broke it while shooting but it gave me a chance to take it apart and do improvements...

here is a schematic that might help you envision it...
http://www.dinoreyes.com/images/lens_xl1_v4.jpg

-dr
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