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Old February 12th, 2005, 11:12 PM   #1
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Confirmation: Do you need Macro lens for adapter?!

hey guys,

I just need confirmation on something.

Do you need a Macro lens for the 35mm adapter, IF my camera lens is only 43mm (panasonic GS-400).

I asked on a thread before and someone said NO. However, I have completed my version of the Agus (rotating CD) and the image seems too small...so I'm assuming i need a macro. I'm hoping that maybe someone can tell me a method though. (So far I just put the cam as close as possible, and zoom in as much w/o blur...the image on the gg seems small?!)

I've followed every instruction/advice on the forums and website (mediachance), and have a focused image on the gg. I am also using Nikon AF lens.

Also, would a PCX/DCX lens take the role of a macro lens? I'm thinking of getting one of those instead since they seem to dissipate hotspots, etc.

Appreciate any input, thanks.

Goh
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Old February 12th, 2005, 11:24 PM   #2
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looks like there no need for that on GS200. Try the camcorder's lens 4-5" away from the GG and zoom-in, see what happens. You should get a sharp image. If it does not fill the screen, try a +3 or +4 CU lens. Good luck.
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Old February 13th, 2005, 01:07 AM   #3
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thanks,

btw, whats a cu lens? condenser?

thanks.

Goh

ps..also i have gs-400....gs-200 has 37mm lens...if this makes a difference
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Old February 13th, 2005, 01:32 AM   #4
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CU=close up.
only CU size (37 vs 43) Get what you can find and step up/down rings.
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Old February 13th, 2005, 08:18 AM   #5
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I just ordered a 7+ 10+ macro yesterday for my PV-DV852 from Panasonic. I found that I could not get rid of vinetting without using a macro. But if others have done so on the GS200, I can't see how the GS400 would be any different, consider it is the next step-up model.
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Old February 13th, 2005, 10:15 AM   #6
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I have GS400 and macro lens are needed. When you draw 24x18mm rectangle, you get it full when you place paper straight on cameras lens :) The sharpest & closest image you get when zoom change from 2x to 3x. This is the point, where you can get sharpes image on very close objects.

I broke some old Pentacon 135 lens and use first as macro lens. Has no aberation or other artifacts. Works cool.
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Old February 13th, 2005, 10:20 AM   #7
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Ok, are you saying that 7+ is going to be too much?
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Old February 13th, 2005, 10:29 AM   #8
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That entirely depends on the camera :)
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Old February 13th, 2005, 10:57 AM   #9
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The store that I am ordering it from has both a 1+2+4+ Hoya adapter kit and he is ordering me a 7+ 10+ kit as well. I will have to test both and see.
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Old February 13th, 2005, 11:50 AM   #10
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Save your money. I have +1, +2, +4 and +10.
Use none for GS200. Most you may need is +4 (on GS400 IF EVER)
Keep a GG/SLR lens infront of your eye (close) Major vignet!!!
Take them 1 foot away.... see the dif?
Try the GG further away from the lens to get ridd of vig and zoom-in. Use CU only if anything else fails.
Your problem is the small image 18/24.
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Old February 13th, 2005, 12:13 PM   #11
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I've got the PV-DV852 Panasonic, so I don't know how it compares with the others. It is about 2.5 years old, but I got it last year on a close-out sale at B&H.

I don't know how feasible having the camera 1 foot away from the GG is when making this device - it would elongate it quite a bit, BUT I know what you are saying. Right now it is about 5-6 inches away from the GG and I still need to zoom in - but I can't zoom in far enough without it blurring, so I need the Macro.

Also, are people just using the Fresnel pieces to get rid of the Hot-spots? Does this go between the DV camera and the GG?

ACTION >> GG >> Fresnel >> Macro/DV camera

Thanks
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Old February 13th, 2005, 12:48 PM   #12
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Fresnel IS the GG. Focusing screen as in SLR cameras. That solves the vigneting (hot spot) and you can get a 24/36mm clean and clear image. See http://dandiaconu.com/gallery/Brightnes-tests
for details and watch the first two clips!
A bigger (than what you have now) screen may not need that much zoom-in and may work without CU.
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Old February 13th, 2005, 01:37 PM   #13
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Ok, but I am using a Spinning CD. I don't know how to get a bigger/larger circumference spinning CD than the production ones. Is that what you are talking about?
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Old February 13th, 2005, 02:57 PM   #14
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No.
a CD will limit your frame size to what you have. No bigger, no brighter. Even a 2X supersized CD would not give you a brighter (and bigger) picture. Is just a spinning GG.
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Old February 13th, 2005, 07:56 PM   #15
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thanks guys,

will look into getting a macro then...seems like +10 would be way too much.

Mandy, curious to see which Macros worked best for you.

Also, still curious about DCX/PCX lenses...what exactly do they do?

Would I still need one if I get a macro? Or would they act as a type of macro...do they have magnifying properties?

thanks,

Goh
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