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Old January 25th, 2006, 06:39 PM   #46
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Jimmy,

The footage looks good, but the issue with any static adaptor is going to be graininess of the ground glass. Due to the Flash video (I'm guessing), or any highly compressed web video format, much of the grain will get blurred out, so it's tough to judge. Even a second of raw DV-AVI would be good to get a real sense for the quality.

Josh
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Old January 26th, 2006, 02:43 AM   #47
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Looks quite promising, though it would be nice to see raw footage as mentioned in the last post. Good work though!
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Old January 26th, 2006, 08:25 AM   #48
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Without a doubt one of the best static designs I've seen yet, great image quality and the black anodized finish looks very pro. It would be great to see a full size frame extract from your footage so we can evaluate the grain.
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Old January 26th, 2006, 03:18 PM   #49
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Here is some stills: http://www.kokokaka.com/35mm/stills.htm
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Old January 26th, 2006, 04:13 PM   #50
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There is also a raw quicktime clip (20meg). It's no CC or noise reduction, just from the camera.
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Old January 27th, 2006, 05:58 AM   #51
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Thanks Jimmy, if there is any grain it's pretty negligible and a small amount probably adds to "the look". I'm happy enough with your design that I've gone ahead & ordered the parts, except I'm going with a Thorlabs 1500 GG and DCX rather than PCX.

For those wanting a microwax screen I'd suggest you contact these guys...
http://www.glasscreen.com/
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Old January 27th, 2006, 07:29 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Fenton
I'm going with a Thorlabs 1500 GG
From what I remember these have swirls and imperfections, and from my own experience the Optosigma 1500 grit doesn't diffuse enough. You might want to reconsider.
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Old January 27th, 2006, 02:42 PM   #53
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yes, I like it... please put up parts list/tutorial.

if ya dont want to POST it... email it to me.

very interested in building one.
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Old January 27th, 2006, 02:55 PM   #54
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Don't forget everyone that this static design was created by Richard Mellor, not Jimmy, at this thread:

http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=37296

there's a parts list available as part of Mellor's first post.
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Old January 28th, 2006, 06:39 PM   #55
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Jimmy, (or someone else who has done it this way) how would you recommend going from the C-mount to the 2" tube? I seem to remember someone saying the tube is 52mm, and I read online that the C-mount is 28mm. I should just be able to step between them, right?

Edit: Never mind... I guess it's not 28mm after all. So my question still stands: What's the best way to go from the C-mount adapter to the 52mm tube? It seems like a lot of people are just gluing it... does that work okay? What kind of glue are you using? Alternatively, Thorlabs sells a C-mount to SM1 tube adapter, but I'd still have to step up from there to the SM2 tube. Anyone know what the thread diameter would be on that?

Edit again: Okay, I read the thread again, and now people are talking about the BR-3 adapter and I've looked that up, and it looks really good. Am I correct in thinking it already has 52mm threads on it? Meaning it can be screwed directly into the Thorlabs tube, right?

Last edited by Joel Kreisel; January 28th, 2006 at 10:37 PM.
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Old January 29th, 2006, 04:38 AM   #56
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I really like the BR-3 adapter but it's a nikon F-mount. I never used a c-mount. Before the BR-3 adapter I glued the f-mount from an old camera on a filterring (52mm).
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Old February 6th, 2006, 09:27 PM   #57
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Hey Jimmy,

Just a quick question. Which side did you put the BR-3 adapter on?

Rh
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Old February 6th, 2006, 09:28 PM   #58
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Hey Jimmy,

Just a quick question. Which side of the thorlabs tube did you put the BR-3 adapter on?

Rh
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Old February 7th, 2006, 05:56 PM   #59
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On the female side with a coupler between nikon f-mount female thread > coupler > female threaded tube. The good thing with the coupler is that you can adjust the distance between lens and groundglass to do some fine adjustments.
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Old February 8th, 2006, 12:53 AM   #60
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Jimmy,

Yeah, I saw that you mentioned that earlier in your thread. I just was premature when asking. So the coupler works pretty good eh? I was thinking of using a male/male ring and using that because it is much cheaper that way.

Rh
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