New PDF Tutorial 2007!!! DIY vibrating 35mm DOF Adapter
 

Hi guys,
here is my promised PDF Tutorial for building a vibrating DOF Adapter.

"How to build a vibrating 35mm DOF Adapter"

Get it from my homepage or download it here:
http://www.jetsetmodels.info/pics/basic_35mm_dof.pdf

Have fun!

best regards
Daniel

Daniel, check email! It's important.

superb tutorial, thanks.

Any chance of a rail mount tutorial in the future? It's where my current problem lies lol

Daniel, you are the man!

From your experience what is the best GG for least amount of fringing, ghosting, highest resolution transmission, etc??

1.) Wax
2.) Glass ground with aluminum oxide
3.) SLR camera screens
4.) Other

By the way if you remember from my other thread in HVX200 I'm still looking to design a relay lens to replace the stock lens of the HVX that will increase overall light transmission by 2 stops. Once I get past the relay lens design I will defintely be working with you for vibrating 35mm element portion!

Cheers!

Hi Dennis,

personally I prefer the wax-gg it involves a little more work because you will need a condenser lens and thin coated glases to get the best out of it. But now Im working on a new wax-mixture which gave me pretty amazing results. The image looks much better to me than that of the available focusing screens and I can now also stop down the aperture to f22. Im only searching a optics company that can build that wax-gg's professionally for me because its a hell of a work to get 1 finished with this new mixture.

Daniel

Thanks, Daniel
 

I worked through your excellent tutorial tonight with very good results. The capillary actions works beautifully. However, I'm going to try again with a slightly different clamping mechanism besides the clothespins. I noticed some warping out where I was clamping on my first two GGs. I also need a cleaner environment as I got a single small speck of dust into my GG on each attempt -- noticeable under high magnification. However -- this was with little to no 'climate control.' Even these initial flawed attempts are the best ground glasses I've seen, and it's not that hard to put together.

What's the new magic mix? (or if you prefer to keep it a secret, I understand).

Thanks again,
-jw

Hi Jonathon,

I found out that you can get better results if you get these clampings.
They should be a little bit wider than the your groundglass. Then the pressure is uniform.

Daniel

See this pic:
http://www.jetsetmodels.info/pics/wax_ggs_2.jpg





.

Ha - tried and failed
 

I had some clips a little like those... and tried them out, but they are too strong! The center of my glass is beeeautifool, but the edges where I clamped it are cracked (just the wax, not the glass). Could also be from a second experiment to cool it in freezer instead of over the wax tin. Practical crystology suggests that faster cooling would result in smaller crystals -- smaller grain, but I didn't see much difference other than the extra crackling.

So... what's your new magic mix?! My paraffin/beeswax (based on your tutorial) is pretty nice, but others here have been posting results with less grain. There must be another combination which has even less grain...

You may find a little clearer patch or band just inside the areas of cracked wax. If you find this, there may be local pressure therefore a thinner wax layer near where the clamps are going on. The clamps themselves may be sucking heat and stressing the glass in the contact zone.

Maybe try some insulating material like folded cereal packet or felt under the clamps.

When all the pressures and temps equalise, the glass remembers that which it once was and tries to bend back and splits the wax in the process.

This may not happen straight away but will happen if there is residual stress and the panel goes outside on a warm day.

Are you putting wafer thin shims in between the two panels of glass to make the spacing even or grinding one panel of glass first and using the grind depth as the clearance?

Wax does rule, unfortunately not for full CD-R sized disks made from two 0.9mm panels of glass.

There's a couple of old frame grabs from my own experiments with wax disks at www.dvinfo.net/media/hart. They are on the bottom of the list.

The Micro-Nikkor lens used was an f3.5. 55mm. The AGUS35 used then was a non-flip.

Yeah - I'm using shims. two thicknesses of transparent tape. I tried the alumuninum foil -- and it worked well also, but I prefer the tape because it helps to keep the sandwich together while I'm setting clamps, etc.

I agree on the clamps -- I clamped too far in, and the clamps were too strong, exerting a very localized pressure, causing the cracking. Next experiment, I'm going to use weaker clamps way out (only over the tape spacers) and I think I will try the felt in the clamps jaws as well to spread the load a bit. Hopefully, it will be nice and smooth.

I also need either a wider box (for wax melting) or narrower clamps. This last attempt was a problem because the clamps prohibited me from dipping the sandwich all the way to the wax surface in the box. I had to dip... then clamp... which was rushed, which is why I clamped too far in, and may have been part of my cracking problem (clamping after the wax was in place).

Third time's a charm... Practice makes perfect... insert your favorite tired cliche here.

By the way, Bob, those caps look pretty nice. Ah, memories -- I remember when you only had 3 pics in that directory (and I remember the pics, too).

Wax type makes a difference
 

After dozens of attempts at making a wax GG with 2 different microcrystalline waxes from 4 sources, sticky white and hard brown stuff, I couldn't make one that didn't have striations or bands appearing in the wax regardless of the layer thickness.

I finally got round to trying it with Daniel's 95% paraffin 5% beeswax mix and 3rd attempt I have a perfect wax diffuser. I left a good margin on either side next to the tape and the wax has bubbled there, but I have more than 36mm flawless wax in the middle. Basically I say forget microwax, paraffin/beeswax works! Thanks Daniel!