View Full Version : HD 201 on-camera light
January 20th, 2009, 06:01 AM
just wandering why on my HD 201 (IDX battery plate with power tap) if connecting an AB Ultralight 2 fitted with 35W lamp, the internal fuse into the plate blows (tried 5 or 6 times).
Another one, this time a 20W lamp, instead, go as a breeze.
JVC Italy is quite wandering in the dark, because they say it's the first time they heard about it: they also suggested me a try with a "4700 diode" bridged somewhere, but I really don't know...
Does anybody out there had the same problem or do you have any valid suggestion ?
Thanks in advance
January 20th, 2009, 07:14 AM
STOP!!!!!!! This happend to me as well-here's the fix. Since Anton Bauer owns the rights to the Power Tap for other to use it they had to change it a bit so IDX had to switch the + and - sides of the D tap. Take the AB Ultralite and open the tap end Be careful you don't lose the tiny screw. You need to reverse the wiresthen put the tap back together (don't lose the tiny screw) and you should be good to go. The wires will be hard to reverse simply because of the nature of the beast but it can be done.
BTW, Don't lose the tiny screw ;-)
January 20th, 2009, 07:36 AM
so you think that reversing polarity could resolve the lamp Wattage problem (e.g. a 35W or even a 50W) ?
OK, I'll give it a try and let you know.
Thanks for your advice
January 20th, 2009, 08:10 AM
Here I am again,
just tried to revert polarity but it's the same: blown fuse every time I use a 35W or a 50W bulb.
Any other idea ?
January 20th, 2009, 08:14 AM
hmmmm, when I tried using my AB Ultralite on an HD100 it kept blowing then I reversed the polarity and it worked. I had a 50W bulb in it. Don't know why it's not working for you.
You might need to get a hold of AB or IDX to get the answer then. All I know is it worked for me. Actually I got the answer here.
January 20th, 2009, 08:28 AM
thank you very much. I'll try to contact IDX and AB, as you suggest.
January 20th, 2009, 10:48 PM
check out this old thread
HD100 + IDX + IDX3 Light + DR-HD100 = Headache - The Digital Video Information Network (http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthread.php?t=66692&referrerid=50183)
Doesn't sound like JVC had to reverse pins to power a drive or light with an IDX
January 21st, 2009, 07:38 AM
Thank you for the useful link...
January 21st, 2009, 04:53 PM
Umm, first thing I did with my 201e was to remove its IDX plate and fit an AB plate with an AB-PAG adapter plate, (I had these in my kit anyway). This lets me use AB bricks with D Tap or PAG with 2 x 12v jack outputs (I found I could add the second output, a switch and a power on Led to the plate without much trouble. So with a 9Ah PAG I can run the camera, a light and an Audio Ltd 2020 radio mic and doubtless a DR-HD100 too. However it would drain the battery very quickly.
A note to the wise, never let a lamp drain a battery, with Nicad cells it can reverse the polarity in 1 or more of the cells and that’s the end of the battery. Don't be tempted to use a bulb to drain and avoid "the memory effect" the risk of inadvertently killing a battery is too high.
January 22nd, 2009, 06:29 AM
I was tempted, too, to change the IDX plate with an AB one, but I own only V-lock batteries, so I must add the AB plate plus an AB to V-lock battery adapter plus another side attachment for radio mic..
And the whole thing begin to appear a little cumbersome...
But i must give a try to Paglight, the one with 35W lamp and the "softstart" button: it seems that it could be the right tool to avoid the fuse blowing.
And thank you for your advice about NiCad batteries... Yes, it was maybe 15-20 years ago that I found by miself that "lamp + Nicad battery" to avoid memory effect was a devil's tool... good only to kill the very first Sony NP1 batteries...
January 22nd, 2009, 12:26 PM
I think you're right about "soft start" Giovanni, kicking in a sudden load is probably where the problem lies. I also recommend that a battery system that can be re-celled be chosen. Various manufacturers moved to sealed units to stop people doing that, if you are competent and careful though, once a sealed battery is dead there's nothing much to lose in carefully cutting the case open while NOT CUTTING THE CELLS, to see if recycling can be done. As mentioned I found that I could successfully convert my 5Ah batteries to about 9Ah at about the same weight and for considerably less cost than buying a new one. Do make sure that the replacement cells will re-charge on your existing charger - smaller Nmh cells may not on some chargers.
I'm all for re-cycling where possible, I've re-celled my batteries a number of times now, they last about 2 years and the trick is to keep a careful eye on them and get to a point where the work is one at a time and so the cost and down-time spread out.
What's vital though is safety, doing the job properly. It's sometimes forgotten that batteries can be dangerous - unless you are really good at these things it's best to get a specialist to fit new calls. Whatever, it goes without saying that the old cells must be disposed of properly, never chucked in a bin or just abandoned.
TIP OF THE DAY
Radio Mics .... NEVER put a new or used cell cell in a pocket or bag without gaffering the terminals, a coin or piece of metal can so easily short them and cause fire - it happens regularly. You don't want to light up like a Christmas decoration do you?
January 28th, 2009, 08:09 AM
I've just changed the fuse inside the battery plate: a 6.3A type "T" (slow-blow) instead of T5A and... et voilà: I can use 35W, 50W bulbs with no problems !
I made also test with camera recording, zooming in, out, etc. and all is OK.