I was looking at buying used legs with 100mm bowl for my 75mm head. I saw bowl adapters but I couldn’t tell if they’re brand specific. ie will a Gitzo bowl adapters work any brand of tripod?

Hi, Pete.................

The short answer to your question is they are and they are not brand specific. Bottom line is that the 100mm to 75mm standard is really more an aspiration than a standard and all of the bowl/ head manufacturers have their own interpretations of how this aspiration works.

The two most common problems are the 100mm is actually 99.5m and the adapter sits too low in the bowl to allow adequate leveling clearance OR that the 75mm is actually 74.5mm which causes the head to sit too high in the adapter to allow either enough grip to keep it locked or enough meat on the clamp bolt to even get the clamp knob mounted.

The best solution is to start with a given tripod bowl and your choice of head and suck it and see with the cheapest adapters you can find, there's plenty of them out there. Sooner or later you'll find a happy compromise where everything works "well enough".

Of course, if you use a Manfrotto adapter with a Manfrotto 100mm bowl tripod and a Manfrotto 75mm head it will, probably, be perfect! (or not). The same goes for all the best makes - Vintens adapter works great with Vinten, not so flash with either Manfrotto or Sachtler heads etc etc.

Regards,

CS

This is for O’Connor 35L legs I saw for sale. Id like to mount a Sachtler Fsb 4 75mm head to it. It’s a long shot but if I have a chance at it I was trying figure if it's worth trying.

I was looking at B&H Oconner doesn’t offer an adapter. I assume no one in pro cinema would use anything less than 100mm. Based on the BH adapter reviews it seems to be hit or miss. All the adapters are reasonably priced accept Sachtler. I probably better off picking up a used set of Miller 75mm legs.

I’ve got to replace these stupid Sachtler speedlock legs that keep slipping.

I’ve got to replace these stupid Sachtler speedlock legs that keep slipping.
There’s a fix that may work for you:
1) remove the four screws from the plate on the cam box.
2) add a thin piece of plastic, or perhaps a bit of index card to the underside of the cam plate. Cut it large enough to cover the complete plate and drive the screws through it.
3) See if this has stabilized your speedlock. If not, try another layer. If so, do it to the other legs!

There’s a fix that may work for you:
1) remove the four screws from the plate on the cam box.
2) add a thin piece of plastic, or perhaps a bit of index card to the underside of the cam plate. Cut it large enough to cover the complete plate and drive the screws through it.
3) See if this has stabilized your speedlock. If not, try another layer. If so, do it to the other legs!
Thanks. I already figured that out by myself without knowing anyone else had come up with a solution.

I used a thin piece a of aluminum flashing. It worked for the most part but the extra pressure caused the metal cam on the end of the carbon rod to start turning. I don’t understand how they are held together. I was going to try jb weld on the outside but there isn’t a lot of surface area/ clearance. Maybe super glue...

Every time I think I have it fixed I go to an event it slips. At hotter temperatures I’ve found it can slip. I’m trying to be smart and not waste a lot of money sending it to Sachtler but also avoiding a disaster with it collapsing while filming a live performance. Without fixing it it has no resale value.