Colorize in post or colorize in camera?

[Paul Watkins]

the big question for me is should I shoot a flat image,maximize latitude and colorize in post or colorize in camera. I read a few different post in which someone asked this same question. but, no detailed responses were given. I know pros usually say do as much in camera as possible, but I can add color later, I can't add latitude. I tend to control the lighting as much as possible and try to stay away from any high contrast areas. But, I keep wondering can I get more latitude. some say stretch blacks , use normal curve and raise
master pedestal others say use vividrgb preset. I want my stuff to look as close to film as possible. I use the Letus Fe, shoot in 24f and have the 50mm 1.4f , and 28mm 2.0f canon fd lenses.

can somebody please tell me which method is better to produced the desired look and why?

Thank You,


Paul

[Peter Jefferson]

You've answered your won questions mate.. but i guess it all comes down to your NLE of choice and/or related colouring apps

IMO doing it in post allows for much more accuracy (re-continuity) as opposed to being out in the field where if you are slightly off, you still have to CC anyway..

[David W. Jones]

I don't use the vividrgb preset, or any of the other home brewed presets that are out there. Many, if not all of them were designed without the use of a calibrated video monitor and vectorscope, and have color balances that are way out of wack. If you find one that you like more power to you.
I shoot mainly broadcast commercials, and have a couple of in-camera looks that work very well for that purpose. I then do all of my color timing in post, so if a client says... that look just isn't working for me, I can then make the change without having to re-shoot the commercial at my expense.

[Steven Fisher]

Hey David,

Would you consider you in-camera looks with us..? I use a couple of presets that I found outside of this site, that seem to work well, as far as I know, however as I'm a novice I'm always looking for more info and examples. As I prefer to do most of the changing in post, I'd appreciate any help you could offer. Thanks.

[Steven Taylor]

I don't have a calibrated video monitor... so would it be any safer for me to colourise in post instead?

[Kevin Amundson]

I try to get as much dynamic range as possible and CC in post, but unfortunatly I havnen't ever tested my PRESET on a calibrated monitor.

Does anybody here have a calibrated monitor and knows what they're doing that they could join up with anybody else, and create a PRESET with the most dynamic range? I would be very interested in this PRESET if anyone would be willing to give it go.

[Peter Ralph]

A calibrated monitor is of limited use in assessing dynamic range. Color and exposure are separate issues - although boosting saturation can push highlights over 100 IRE on a channel by channel basis.

Open up an image and a waveform monitor - increase gain to max and drop pedestal to minimum. The WFM will confirm that you have maximized dynamic range acroos the entire image but I doubt the picture is the one you want.

DV/HDV have limited dynamic range. Good lighting and correct exposure are critical to bring tonal values into the midrange.

Normally what you are looking to do with the presets is move luminance values from the top and bottom of the WFM into the center. So for instance shooting in a dark room you can stretch the blacks, bump the setup and the master pedestal to rescue image detail from shadows. But the blacks will become noisy and washed out. So even that rule has limited application.

If you are looking for a single preset to "maximize dynamic range" in all shooting conditions I think the factory preset may be your best bet. But the whole idea of custom presets is that you don't need to accept a "one size fits all" solution.

[Paul Watkins]

thanks for the input guys.