Newbie Questions ( SD benefit - default color profile )
 

I have a project that I know is going to be an SD DVD. In fact I have 3 other SD cameras covering the event. In trying to save on HD space and render times…
Is it best to switch the A1 to SD? Will it capture record to tape HDV anyways?

I just received it last week and I’m working out the color settings right now. I’ll be outside all day and other then the sun being in or out, the light should be at the same temperature.
Should I use one of the fabulous color presents in the thread above or can I shoot in the default and be ok? I really don’t have the skill set / experience with this camera to be switching back and forth all day so I’m afraid that the one present that will fit best is the default. Correct?
Does anyone see a benefit from using a UV filter ( other then for just the Lens protection? )
OK, don’t want to were out my welcome – Chris, thanks for the great info source – I’ve already had great luck with tons of info I’ve read here. I got a 16 GB card to take snap shots with ( and record color profiles with ) and I’m ready to go!
( well almost  )
Shawn

If you have 3 other cameras covering an event and they're all SD, I would shoot SD with the XH A1 too. Make sure they're all also at the same frame rate (24p or 60i or whatever).

A UV filter will help a little bit cut down on the haze if you're using a really long telephoto lens, but it doesn't do all that much. Most people use them when shooting aerials, or simply for lens protection.

You can shoot with the factory default then tweak the image when you edit if you want. However, you might find the edge enhancement a bit heavy and want to soften the image just a little.

Thanks Bill.
I went out and did a test shot ( I'm shooting radio controlled aircraft ) and while it is a bit heaver then my GL2 I think I can get the hang of it.
I did noticed that the footage seemed a bit noisy, any ideas? I'm shooting in the "A" auto mode with AGC off and hand shake on. Other then that everything is default.
Also, I did notice a setting for "sky Detail" function that I'm going to try out - seems like a gimmick but who know right :0

Make sure your gain is set to zero or -3. Shouldn't be noisy. I've never used any of the auto modes, so I'm not too familiar with what happens there.

< ding – light goes on > OK, I went into the settings and switched everything down ( -3, 0 , +3 for L,M,H ) Gain looks much better with a quick test.
I think I’ll shoot in AV mode w/ -3 gain, pressing the exp. lock button to keep the shutter value from bouncing when I pan towards and away form the sun. Currently, the shutter is at 1/500 when panning around with no ND filter on so, I could bring that down a hair by placing the ND filter to 1/6, No?

It's really not a good idea to use the shutter speed to control exposure with a video camera, as you might do with a still camera. You're going to get some really funky motion on certain shots with a fast shutter speed. If you're shooting in bright sun, -3db, with the appropriate ND on, you should be well within the range of your lens. Shooting 24F, the shutter should be 1/48; shooting at 30fps, it should be at 1/60. If you go a little faster it may be OK, but as fast a 1/500 is probably not a good idea, unless you're looking for a specific effect. Any time you use a shutter speed different from what it should be for the frame rate, you're going to get some effect, sometimes barely noticeable, other times really weird.

I would tend to go with the colour of the VIVIDRGB preset and back off in post if you felt the need.

I did a few tests in bright sunlight the other day. I was comparing skin tones in the DEFAULT, PANALOOK and VIVIDRGB.

My subject had a bright pink top on. It looked totally washed out using the DEFAULT preset and could not be brought up in post, whereas I could back off on the look of other presets (in post) if necessary.