ODD DEINTERLACE PROBLEM...by newbie
 

Im still learning my XH-A1, so be patient. ha

I shot some footage in 60i, captured using HD-SD in the A1...footage looked ok.
I edited a little using Premiere 2.0, color corrected using Looks preset
Then deinterlaced the footage.....

I wanted to look at individual frames..just being curious..

What Im seeing is "every other frame" is out of focus. What's up wth that?

Maybe a quick lesson on when/how to deinterlace would be nice.

Thanks,
Jeff

Trying deinterlace again...maybe it failed first time...rendering now...will post results.

Post some screenshots.

Found problem...evidently I had not "deinterlaced" the footage. What I was seeing was the blurr of interlacing action. It looks fine now.

another question...if you dont mind. *using Premiere 2.0"

How does this sound for work flow to DVD?

Shoot 60i
HD-SD downconvert within Xh-A1
Capture SD 60i timeline
Edit, color correct
make uncompressed AVI (not sure if necessary)
deinterlace
Export to DVD

(not sure what to select when exporting to DVD...(24p ?_

Though maybe a little more experienced than you, I'm also relatively new at this, so don't take my advice without double checking elsewhere first.
I would imagine that if you have the option, you would export as 30p because what you did is turn 60 FIELDS/second into 30 FRAMES/second. The frame rate is still essentially the same (since 60i is 2 fields/frame and 30 frames/second), so you wouldn't put it as 24p.
I would imagine changing the frame rate from 30fps to 24fps would make some funny stuff happen with the flow of the image because you can't quite divide 30 into 24.
However, I doubt you would have the option of using 30p (not sure why, just have a feeling), and seeing as it's not really true 30p anyway (not that it would make much of a difference), I would still put it as 60i.

Not sure if you understood any of that. I probably made it more confusing than it has to be lol :P

Thanks David...
you may be right..

My main problem is ..Im still experimenting with "everything"...and NOT taking time to jot down my steps. So that means I cant remember what I did last. ha

Im getting there though....although by luck most of the time. Im trying to learn too much at once. and need to take more time...too anxious to get going. ha.

My main product with be a DVD. I want it to be deinterlaced, nice color and film look. I will stick shooting with 60i for a while until I know what im doing.

jeff

If your editting machine can hack it, I wouldn't down-convert to SD until after the editing and colour correction is complete. Many people (effectively) up-convert on import, to ProRes, Canopus HQ or a similar intermediate codec. You can't recover any definition lost in the camera's compression this way, but you can better maintain the quality of any sequences rendered by your NLE (transitions, CC, etc.), and you can save your CPU from decompressing the footage every time you playback or scrub along the time-line.

Only compress to your target output format right at the very end of the process. The compression methods built into most NLEs are at least as good as, and often rather better than, those in your camera. This is where I'd do any interlace-to-progressive conversion, but there may be good reasons for doing this earlier in the process. Also, it gives you the option of outputting to various formats, such as 720P for YouTube or Vimeo, as well as DVD.

Finally, I always archive my finished projects by copying back to a camera tape at full HDV resolution. (Writing to BluRay or a "proper" IT back-up tape drive are other options).

HTH

I just re-read what I wrote and thought I'd clear up the last little bit because it's not really clear what I meant (even I got slightly confused lol).

What I meant to say is:
-Take your 60i footage
-Do all your editing
-Deinterlace (essentially turning it into 30p)
-Export to DVD usint 60i (because it will take each of your "progressive" frames and split it into two fields but you should still have the progressive look, I THINK)

It's kind of like how if you shoot 30F (which as I'm sure you know is Canon's version of 30p), it records 60i on the tape. Even though it's in 60i, the image is still the same progressive image, just split in two.

Anyway, I'm going to stop talking now because I have a feeling I'm slowly stepping into unfamiliar territory and don't want to give you any misconceptions about how things work lol :P

Mark and David....
Thanks...I understand the posts.

The more I experiment the clearer it gets.

I really appreciate your input.

Jeff