I imagine there is some trick people are missing to remove it.
|
last night, i tried to adapt/throw in some of the xlh1 presets for kicks and got some pretty nice looks. the h1 and a1 share the same adjustment settings, but the a1 puportedly has 140% of the color space of the h1. all i did was copy over the same values and multiplied the h1 setting by 4, for starters, to compensate for the differences in value range and color space wherever the value range was updated (-9 to +9 on the h1, as opposed to -50 to +50 on the a1). i have no way to compare these settings to what they actually look like on the h1, but there were some very nice results when i previewed out to my crt. a big thanks to the authors of the original presets for giving us all a nice starting point to work off of.
also, the lcd/viewfinder at the default settings is way too bright and does not give an accurate depiction of what it will really look like when output on a calibrated monitor. taking down brightness almost all the way, and cranking up both color and contrast almost all the way helps, and got me pretty close to what i was seeing on the crt brightness & contrast-wise. there is still a slight difference in hue which i don't think anything can be done about. |
i've swapped in three BP945s without a problem.
|
So, unless I'm missing something - the 945 should be the same size as the 970G... and it ought to work.
Thanks Henry. |
Yes -- the BP930 and 950G share the same physical dimensions, as do the BP945 and 970 G.
|
No, you got me wrong, the 970G works, it's just such a tight fit and so sunk in the battery bay that theres nothing to grab onto in order to pull it out. To get a battery out you have to pull this plastic tab out to the side and the battery gets pushed out by two springs located on the back face of the battery bay, but if your battery is a tight fit, these springs don't push hard enough to get the battery out. Hence I had to stick tape to the battery to 'pull' it out. The batteries work fine, they're just a tight fit for the bay.
|
I live in Austin too and am considering purchasing the camera. Never been to precision camera. What is their website?
|
Andrew, it's http://www.precision-camera.com/ -- they're located at 38th and North Lamar.
|
Sweet thanks.
|
everything is A okay
Battery goes in and releases just fine, no sticking - I actually like the balance with a heavier battery in it.
Thanks! |
>>a big thanks to the authors of the original presets for giving us all a nice >>starting point to work off of.
Henry- can you point me towards this thread/link? I'd love to see what you're talking about. Thanks, Greg |
Henry refers to our XL H1 Custom Presets Download Library .
|
Thanks Chris. This forum is a treasure!
|
As soon as folks start sharing their XH custom presets, custom functions, and custom display settings, then we'll fire up an XH Custom Settings Download Library.
|
I've shot enough tape to get a feel for the camera now and wanted to post a couple things I haven't seen yet.
First is that the image stabilizer is amazing. You'll be able to shoot handheld in situations you wouldn't think possible. Second is that the lcd and viewfinder really suck. The lcd is almost unuseable in sunlight. And the viewfinder, though high-resolution, is way too small. The type from essential info display covers most of the image. If you wear glasses, the high magnification of the viewfinder means you have to work at it to get your eye centered on it. And the lip of the rubber eye piece doesn't fold down so you can't get your eye closer. On the other hand, the lcd folds every which way, so you can have it on the side of the camera, which is great for keeping an eye on framing during interviews. chuck |
Hey Chuck,
Unfortunatly that is a drawback to all LCD's... grab yourself a lieel lens hood from Hoodman, and you're good to go. |
the built in lcd monitor is not in a symmetrical shape , therefore it would be hard to find a hood to completely shade it off. I hope there will be not much light leak from the gaps.
I do have an 7" external LCD, but I still have to use the built in LCD or Viewfinder because the zebras will not transfer to an external LCD. |
I've been closely reading and watching this forum and keeping the tissue handy to wipe away the saliva.
I just ordered mine from ZGC and should be fiddling this weekend. Now to decide what to do with my partially broke GL2... |
I emailed Hoodman about the A1 and got the following response today.
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
i'm using the hoodman 300 right now. the strap closest to the camera has to be stretched a little further to accomodate the swingout hinge, but it's wrapped on tight and very stable. a must when using the lcd and shooting outdoors during the day.
|
Henry,
Can you read my post on 24F SD and let me know in this thread? Thanks bro. |
hey matt... just saw your post here. i already replied in your thread.
you can capture 24f sd footage to a 60i timeline using 2:3 pulldown, and export to tape on any 60i deck. |
Quote:
|
Attachments
Quote:
JP |
Quote:
|
You're right. Was I hallucinating when I wrote that? Maybe.
You can use warm cards or other-color bounce cards to cheat the preset positions into the colors you want; and the default Daylight and Tungsten settings can be tweaked up or down by several steps... although I have no idea how many degrees Kelvin each step represents. We'll have to find out. |
Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I was under the impression that the (K) Color Temp is a separate function unto itself & useful for example, if one knows the Kelvin Temperature such as studio lighting, etc. you can just dial it in & does not change default values for the daylight & Tungsten selections.
On page 62, it states there's auto white, indoor & outdoor, 2 manual modes (A&B) & color temperature setting (based on Kelvin degrees) which says is in 100 degree increments. Bill |
All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:36 AM. |
DV Info Net -- Real Names, Real People, Real Info!
1998-2024 The Digital Video Information Network