Yes if you've got a reasonably steady hand you can get fine results.

ND ring odd behavior on 20x?
 

IF you move the neutral density filter slightly...not goining all the way to next marking it still seems to have an effect on the light coming in. For example....I have it off, I turn it about halfway to 1/6 yet I notice it stops down a little. Then I turn it more and it stops down again before it gets all the way to 1/6. The same behavior exists from 1/6-1/32. Why is this?

And would it hurt to film at one of these stop-gap settings? Is this even normal?

Thanks!

I just checked mine. It does the same thing. The only bad thing I saw was that the VF doesn't display ND if you aren't at one of the two actual positions. But it was indeed variable like you said.

Hmmm. A bonus feature.

=gb=

It's not a defect or fault. Pro BQ cameras work the same way. I would not select the in-between positions. It wasn't designed to operate in that manner.

XL2 20x lens not usable with Century optics lens? help!
 

I just read that the XL2 20 x lens is not usible with the 72 mm Century Optics wide angle lens because the curvature of the glass is such that the outside glass on the 20 x zoom will touch the inside glass on the wide angle and scratch them.

BUT -- I just got the 72 mm Century Optics Fisheye lens (OVS-FEWA-3XL) from the guys at Samy's Camera in Venice CA, and now I'm worried that it might also scratch the glass on the lenses. Samy's didn't have an answer for me.

Does anyone here know?

Thanks a million for your time,
Drew

It's true, there's no wide angle adapter for the 20x lens yet, this was announced a while ago. But Century are apparently working on one.

Maybe you could try to use step rings. A 72mm to 77mm with a 77mm to 72mm. That would cost you around $20. Maybe there's even spacer rings that are already 72mm to 72mm. Check it out. Although I'm really not sure what kind of results it will produce when focusing. And it might also vignette. Might want to try it out in a store first.

Thanks David,

I used the fish eye adapter once and both lenses seem fine, but the potential of scratching them scares the crap out of me. At this point I'm thinking of returning the Century Fish eye and just upgrading to the canon 3x wide angle.

anyone have thoughts on that lens?


thanks for your time,
Drew

The 3X lens is certenly a great addtion to an XL2, but it is not a fish eyes lens. You will get a wider angle than the stock 20X, but not as wide as with the fish eyes adapter, and without the extreme distortion.

If you are using the xl2 for commercial purposes, then the 3x wide is a must for your collection of gear. Perfect for tight spots or close to objects where the background assumes a gradual perspective.

To this lens, (the 3x) there are aftermarket wide adapters you can add to achieve the "skateboardermegasfisheyevideo" look.

David,

The spacer ring idea won't work. The correct adapter for the 20x and 16x auto lenses has a bayonet mount just like the lense hood uses. It doesn't screw on the front. That is why I am selling you my .6 because it's a clamp on made for the 14x manual lense. I need the bayonet mount version.

regards,

=gb=

Check with ZGC and ask for Chris. I spoke with her the other day and they had 3 of the new xl2 compatible .7x wide angle Century Converters on the way. I spoke with Century myself last Friday and they told me they have been shipping for 2 weeks....now 3. Good Luck.

Oh...and they told me if I already had the existing .7x I could send it in to be modded to work with the Xl2 but it would cost $200 bucks!

Instead of paying for the modification, you could always sell your existing .7x to an XL1 / XL1S owner and apply those funds to a new one.

<<<-- Originally posted by Chris Hurd : Instead of paying for the modification, you could always sell your existing .7x to an XL1 / XL1S owner and apply those funds to a new one. -->>>

The problem with this is that I have seen, and almost bought the .7x Xl1 unit on Ebay for as little as $300.00-350.00. The price I got on the new unit was $749. That was discounted from the $799 list price. So if you have the old one you might be better to have it modded as the price between the used xl1 compatible and the new Xl2 compatible is almost $400.00. Even if you got a used one for $350 and paid $200 for the upgrade you are still coming in at $200 less than the new one is going for.

The original .7x is retailing on sale at ZGC for $619. The new on $749.

Hopefully the prices will drop. I'm sticking with the .6x when I need wide. The .7x looks too darn big to hang out there on the end of the 20x lens anyway as its too heavy already! The .6x isn't really too bad there. Just no zoom through.

<<<-- Originally posted by Greg Boston : David,

The spacer ring idea won't work. The correct adapter for the 20x and 16x auto lenses has a bayonet mount just like the lense hood uses. It doesn't screw on the front. That is why I am selling you my .6 because it's a clamp on made for the 14x manual lense. I need the bayonet mount version.

regards,

=gb= -->>>

B&H sell a bayonet 6 to 72mm adapter for screw-in filters. Wouldn't this work with a 72mm threaded adapter and the 20x? Those rings are designed for filters mind you, so I'm not sure I'd risk putting the weight of a glass adapter on it.

20x vs 16x
 

After much deliberation, I have decided to purchase an XL-2. I've spent too much time trying to make a decision and am now ready to take the digital dive.

My problem is whether or not to go with the standard 20x lens or the manual 16x lens. I plan to use this EXCLUSIVELY for short/feature length films. I just don't know what would better suit my needs.

Also:
Would I need a 3x lens as well?
Is a b/w viewfinder absolutely necessary for focusing?

Thanks a bunch guys!
All of your help is greatly appreciated.