TA100 Compatibility

Daniel Woltosz · December 18th, 2006, 10:03 PM

The fact that the pieces are made of metal is a plus. Seems like a worthwhile investment for $129.00.

Thanks!

Mike Teutsch · December 19th, 2006, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greg Boston

I would have to humbly disagree with Mike T. on this one. I had TA-100's for both of my XL2's and I feel the 4 screw mount makes for a better mechanical coupling to the camera than the single 3/8 hole. But that's just my humble opinion.

-gb-

Greg,

You may disagree with me anytime my man! Problem is I did not make that statement. Ha Ha----:)

Mike

Greg Boston · December 19th, 2006, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Teutsch

Josh,

I'm sure it would fit, but I would not use it if I were you. The 501 has no counter balance springs and anything that gets the camera up higher is just going to compound your weight problems when not level. It is going to want to fall forward or back even more.

JMHO

Hehe Mike, I was referring to the the first sentence in that post above. I DO recommend using the TA-100 regardless of what head or sticks you place the camera on.

But that's just my opinion for the reasons stated in my post above. Mainly the 4 screw plate mounting to the bottom of the camera for structural integrity. Less likely to strip out than the single 3/8 hole with a camera as heavy as the XL2.

-gb-

Mike Teutsch · December 19th, 2006, 08:31 AM

Cool! Now I understand. But if that is your only concern, why not just drill 4 holes in the standard plate? Not hard at all!

Mike

Greg Boston · December 19th, 2006, 08:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Teutsch

why not just drill 4 holes in the standard plate? Not hard at all!

Well Mike, I would have to say that I also like having the nice, big release lever on the side. Much easier than getting to the one underneath the camera with the stock tripod release plate.

Oh, almost forgot. A really big advantage is that the base plate part has several screw holes along the length allowing you to choose a mounting point which results in a more neutral balance. Very helpful with the nose heavy 20X lens attached.

And finally, while you and I may have the right tools and ability to accurately drill 4 countersunk mounting holes, many here probably don't or won't.

-gb-

Mike Teutsch · December 19th, 2006, 08:55 AM

Don't get me wrong Greg, I'm not disagreeing with you. The plate is very nice. But, I still think it is not too good for the 501, as it only adds to the weight problem. I had a 501 before going to 503s. Pans will be fine if locked down on the tilt. If it were me, I would spend that money for upgrading to a 503 first.

But, that's just my humble opinion. :) Best of luck to all.

Mike

December 18th, 2006, 10:03 PM	#16
Daniel Woltosz Tourist Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Huntington Beach, CA Posts: 3	Thanks for the comments The fact that the pieces are made of metal is a plus. Seems like a worthwhile investment for $129.00. Thanks!

December 19th, 2006, 08:31 AM	#19
Mike Teutsch Inner Circle Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Port St. Lucie, Florida Posts: 2,614	Cool! Now I understand. But if that is your only concern, why not just drill 4 holes in the standard plate? Not hard at all! Mike __________________ Chapter one, line one. The BH.

December 19th, 2006, 08:55 AM	#21
Mike Teutsch Inner Circle Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Port St. Lucie, Florida Posts: 2,614	Don't get me wrong Greg, I'm not disagreeing with you. The plate is very nice. But, I still think it is not too good for the 501, as it only adds to the weight problem. I had a 501 before going to 503s. Pans will be fine if locked down on the tilt. If it were me, I would spend that money for upgrading to a 503 first. But, that's just my humble opinion. :) Best of luck to all. Mike __________________ Chapter one, line one. The BH.