Many news crews don't have a colour monitor. They use the usual white card/ handy piece of white paper for a white balance. The other option, under known lighting conditions, is to use either the preset daylight or tungsten as required.

The high end cameras also tell you the colour temperature reading, although some cameras can be off, so you need to check the read out against a known light source. However, if you're clued up, you can usually spot if a camera is giving a false colour temperature reading. I should add this doesn't affect the white balance itself, it's just the read out that's wrong.

The cameras normally tell you if they can't do a correct white balance. Of course, occasionally you do get a faulty camera, but you should check the camera before going on a shoot.

Okay, I'll answer my own question -- half of it anyway. At the B&H listing it says that the FU-1000 displays 500 TV lines. Damn. That's pretty impressive. I thought it was going to be like 300.

I'm sorry, I should have been clearer with my question. I know how to white balance, but how do you know that that is the correct one? With my VX2000, when I white balance, it can give me white balance that is a little to yellow or blue, depending on how I angle my white card, how close I am to the light source, etc.

Marco,
I bit the bullet and spent the money on a FU 1000 last year and have never looked back. For me, I was fed up finding some wonderful shots - only to find the focus was not quiet right. Now I have the FU 1000, I generally get a wonderful crisp shot most times. With zebras on, I find the $4,000 (PAL Version) an ideal solution (for me).
I mainly shoot wildlife using the Canon 100 - 400mm F4.5 L as well as the standard 20x HD Lens.
Perhaps you could arrange to test before you buy?

Marco- The Fu-1000 is SUPPOSED to work with the xlh1- that's why they have two seperate plug ports like the xl2. One for the color viewfinder, and one for the black and white.

SOME people are reporting issues with the older models of the FU-1000 and the XL-H1. Just as SOME people had issues with it and the new XL-2 (See the myriad threads about main body fuse's being blown)

After blowing the fuse on my XL2 twice, Canon (Through ZOTZ) replaced my XL2 and it's been working fine since.

Well, I took the plunge. I bought an FU-1000 used from eBay (fingers crossed) and it should be here Tuesday. I'm pretty excited about it. This fuse blowing thing has me pretty nervous though.

Dale, You have to trust the camera's white balance calibration. That's what it is designed for. When the little flower stops blinking the camera is 'balanced' on whatever white card you have it aimed at.

The only way to know if the balance the camera selects, is the balance you judge as 'correct' is to check it on a color monitor. Assuming of course, that the monitor you check it on is correctly balanced itself.

Marco- Do you already have the XLH1? Keep us posted on the fuse problems. Like I said, the camera is DESIGNED to take the FU-1000. So there SHOULDN'T be any problems.

Oh no, I just got an XL2. I'm just thinking about down the road (probably years).

Right. I'll be moving to the XLH1 in probably a year. I'll be taking the FU-1000 and the 16x manual with me. And off course, the dual battery pack as well. I will probably buy the body kit, and the 6x.

I have a buddy who just got his, and he says the 16x really does look good. He's doing a series of tests today with his Mini-35, and the set of primes he has from his Mitchell BNCR.

He is one of the people I mention, who had an issue with his FU-1000 and the xlh-1. As soon as I know the full details on it, I'll let you know.

FYI- The reason I'm waiting a year to jump 'up' the HDV - I don't get much call for it right now, and I'm really interested in seeing what RED can do.

Good news about the 16x manual lens. Now I have an excuse to get that too! I tell you, the more I use this camera the less anxious I am to make the jump to HD. Until I can get this level of functionality (interchangeable lenses, CRT viewfinder, knobs and dials for most every function), I'm happy to stay with MiniDV. Heck, practically nobody even owns an HD set and the ones that do aren't even watching HD footage on it. I'm most excited about finally -- finally -- being able to pull focus with this new viewfinder. I don't know how people with HD cameras even do that without a monitor.

Fu 1000 & Xl H1
 

I took delivery of my XL H1 last month and plugged the FU 1000 straight into the socket. As per the instruction manual for the H1, the FU 1000 is noted as one of the many accessories. In fact, I haven't even looked at the viewfinder that came with the H1 - simply because I have gotten used to using the FU 1000, and feel I would not get the same results using the alternative.

Marco, I think you will be very impressed when you get the hang of using the new FU 1000. Make sure you calibrate it correctly using the color bars.

Also, for what it is worth, sharp focus is normally just a smidge further than your eyes might tell you (it is for me anyway). You may want to try going through the focus - and then come back with the focus.

Good Luck.

Well, the FU 1000 came today and wow. All of the misgivings I had about investing in SD right now completely went away. I can't believe that after all this time I can actually look through an eyepiece and focus! Another thing I didn't expect is that since the eyepiece is so far forward the camera actually balances much, much better now. I definitely think this is a must-have accessory if you've got an XL2.

Diopter?
 

Can't seem to adjust the diopter to my eye without glasses. It almost seems like there should be another lens in there or something. For those who have the FU-1000, how deep into the eyepiece is the lens? In other words, I could poke my finger down in there about two inches before I would touch the lens (not that I go around touching the lens mind you). Is this normal, or should there be another lens at the top of the eyepiece? Adjusting the diopter lever doesn't seem to do much of anything.

Marco,
There is an 'extension tube' that you can screw on to the viewfinder, that actually places your eye even further away from the diopter lens. Additionally, if you crank on the circular wheel (Where you expect the diopter adjustment to be) all you do is extend and retract the lens tube. The diopter adjustment is actually the tab BELOW the tube, with the numbered increments. You must push the tab IN, and then move it back and forth to adjust.

The extension tube puts the camera FORWARD on your shoulder, so you may or may not like it, depending on the battery solution you have on the back. But I suppose it might be necessary for some vision issues. Check into it.

I usually leave the lens cap ON, then turn the camera on, and focus on the white readout letters.(date, time, battery etc.) If the indicator levels and numbers look sharp to my eyes, then I know I am focussing on the crt correctly with my vision. Then I remove the lens cap, and focus on my subjects.

Yeah, it's a definite plus over the color viewfinder. You just have to remember to check your white balance often.

Also, the nifty light on the underside comes in handy when using the 16x manual, and reading focus numbers on the lens in the dark!

Additionally, depending on how your camera is rigged, and how you pick it up and handle it, it is possible to bump the Brightness adustment when mounting it, making your image appear darker all of a sudden. If you find yourself wondering WTF?... check you brightness settings.

Enjoy

Ah, I was hoping it would be something like that. The eyepiece didn't come with the extender, but I don't really miss it. I like having the eyepiece short since the camera balances so much better. Sure hope the XL H1 comes down in price in a couple of years. I don't think I can go back to an LCD vewfinder.