Xl2 on the way

Per Johan Naesje · January 4th, 2007, 11:18 AM

Congratulate Michele, hopefully you will be satisfied with this gear. Read the manual and try out the settings into the meny. It's a lot there to enhance the quality of the picture.

And don't hesitate to ask for help. It's a lot of people here with great experience wich will help you out.

Will you do any wildlife filming?

Good luck!

Michele Coser · January 4th, 2007, 01:13 PM

Per, right now not. But who knows... in fact my father know (and also i, a bit) another person that is the editor of an historical magazine about the "Francigen Way" an historical road that in the middle ages lead pilgrims from england to Rome, so maybe there's a chance to do something. I tried some settings today, right now i'm putting the footage on a dvd to see how is on a tv.

Michele Coser · January 5th, 2007, 09:07 AM

Ok, i've tested the camera a bit. I'm still waiting for someone that can help me "acting" in some shots. It was'nt great at night, i was hoping a bit more sensitivity... but at least there is no gain, and that's good because i hate gain in black areas. However is just a matter of being in a enough-lit zone and i think you got no problem.
Here whe have public illuumination that is orange-red, and i think i made a preset that lower saturation and red, when the sun goes down i'll try it.

Just some question:

I shoot in 25p, the shutter speed must be 50?

When outside, what's better: use the ND filter or close more the iris? i think it depends from the situation...

I use the M manual mode, and even if i set the exposition at the right level, sometimes it looks like if there is some sort of auto exposition; and i don't know how to turn it off.

Merlin Vandenbossche · January 5th, 2007, 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michele Coser

When outside, what's better: use the ND filter or close more the iris? i think it depends from the situation...

It depends on what you want as Depth of field. By keeping your Iris open and using an ND-filter you will have a more shallow depth of field (bigger possibilities with blurring the background and sharpening the foreground). Pumping the iris closed will increase the overall sharpness of your entire image. So everything in your image (fore- and background) will appear sharp.

I always prefer the more shallow depth of field to decrease the 'video-feel'.

Tony Davies-Patrick · January 5th, 2007, 10:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michele Coser

...I use the M manual mode, and even if i set the exposition at the right level, sometimes it looks like if there is some sort of auto exposition; and i don't know how to turn it off.

The metering will still fluctuate slightly even when it is in Manual mode. To make sure that the background exposure levels remain constant within a scene you need to press the "Exposure Lock" button situated just above the lens bayonet release catch.

Dale Guthormsen · January 5th, 2007, 11:38 PM

Michele,

all the aforementioned is good information. I suspect the first thing you'll do to alter your images is to work out the presets to get the image looking true, or in a manner you want for effect.

Get the blubarn program, down load some of the presets and shoot some practice footage.

I recomend the techncolor preset for number one to start, and the black and white preset for focusing as number 3.

that leaves number two open for you to create one of your own.

Michele Coser · January 6th, 2007, 04:07 AM

Tony, i've tried the "exp lock" button, but don't do anything. I was making this test: pointing the camera toward a well lit corridor the exposition is right, but if i zoom on a small thing the iris auto-close itself more. I am into manual mode (M on the body ring); is there something i have to tweak on the menu? As i said the "Exp lock" button does nothing.

Tonight i have to shoot an event into a church. Yesterday when they were doing reharsals i was here to setup the camera. However there is very low light (they want to have a certain atmosphere). Plus i will probably on the side where the spectators are, and all the lights are bheind the actors. I have the iris full open and the gain at 12, still is dark and grainy.

Michele Coser · January 8th, 2007, 08:10 AM

http://www.fileshack.us/v/9805813/xl2aetest.mpg.html

I uploaded this file. is only 5mb (10 sec) to see that auto exposition. It is clear that when i zoom out the iris open more. I was un M (full manual mode); there is no way to lock the exposition at all? It seems dmub to me that a so powerful camcorder has still this auto-exposition and that you can not turn it off.

Tony Davies-Patrick · January 8th, 2007, 08:55 AM

Michele - the Exposure Lock button does work and holds the exposure, but you must also keep the lens zoom position fixed at the same setting througout the shoot.
The reason that you are seeing a fluctuation of exposure when you zoom from WIDE to TELEPHOTO position and back again is because the Iris/aperture of the XL 20X AF lens does not remain constant between wide and telephoto settings. Only a zoom lens with a true fixed aperture will provide unchanging iris opening (The XL 16X Manual Servo lens is better in this regard).
Just check in the viewfinder and you'll observe that the lens aperture of the AF IS 20X lens will close down slightly from f/1.6 to about f/3.4 when you zoom between wide to telephoto, so the Exp Lock will obviously not keep the lens at f/1.6 throughout the zoom.

Greg Boston · January 8th, 2007, 08:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michele Coser

http://www.fileshack.us/v/9805813/xl2aetest.mpg.html

I uploaded this file. is only 5mb (10 sec) to see that auto exposition. It is clear that when i zoom out the iris open more. I was un M (full manual mode); there is no way to lock the exposition at all? It seems dmub to me that a so powerful camcorder has still this auto-exposition and that you can not turn it off.

The stock 20X lens will close down to around 3.4 when you fully zoom in. This is a design constraint of the lens and is not a malfunction. You should also know that having the dial in 'M' only puts you in manual iris and shutter. The EXP LOCK button has no effect in 'M' mode. EXP LOCK is for the semi-auto Av and Tv modes where you control only the iris or shutter and let the camera manage the other. For example, you are in Tv (shutter priority) and you have it set for 1/250th, the camera will vary the iris setting automatically for you to maintain optimal exposure. If you press and hold EXP LOCK, the camera is forced to keep the iris at whatever it currently is. The opposite effect would be true if you were in Av where you select a desired iris and the camera runs the shutter.

You should also know that if you leave the gain knob set to 'A', even with the main dial in 'M', the camera will vary the gain based on lighting conditions and can lead to unpleasant results. This may account for the shifting exposure you mentioned, along with the lens iris closing down at full telephoto.

-gb-

Tony Davies-Patrick · January 8th, 2007, 09:30 AM

As Greg has mentioned, the Auto Gain button set on "A" will cause a constant change of the exposure as you swing the lens to different framing. I find best results are when the Gain is left on Minus -3 and rarely move it off that position unless light levels are really low.

I do use 'M' Manual position on the main dial, but much prefer to twist it to Av for run-n-gun stuff. For difficult lighting and fast-changing backgrounds - such as when a person is moving constantly from evenly lit background to harsh backlight or highly reflective water and grey sky in the background, I simply frame on a subject that is properly exposed, such as evenly lit area of green grass, quickly press the Exp Lock button and then swing back to the main subject; or simply take a meter reading off the subject's evenly lit skin tone, press the Exp lock button and then continue shooting.

Regarding the fluctuation of the iris as you zoom in tight - you'll notice that the iris will remain fairly constant at f2.8 through most of the middle zoom range and only changes to f/3.4 at the very tightest telephoto position.

Michele Coser · January 8th, 2007, 10:10 AM

Yes, but i'm pretty sure i notice an auto adjustment of the exposure one time that i was shooting a medium shot of a road and a truck passed over. I must be wrong (maybe i was in some auto-mode) but i almost have used only the manual mode.

Greg Boston · January 8th, 2007, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michele Coser

Yes, but i'm pretty sure i notice an auto adjustment of the exposure one time that i was shooting a medium shot of a road and a truck passed over. I must be wrong (maybe i was in some auto-mode) but i almost have used only the manual mode.

Once again, check the position of the Gain knob. If it's set to Auto, the camera will vary the electronic gain regardless of being in Manual exposure mode. If a truck passed by and darkened the frame, the camera would increase the gain if set to Auto. As Tony suggested, set it to '0' or '-3' and try to work your other exposure parameters to optimize at this gain level.

-gb-

January 4th, 2007, 11:18 AM	#16
Per Johan Naesje Trustee Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Akershus, Norway Posts: 1,413	Congratulate Michele, hopefully you will be satisfied with this gear. Read the manual and try out the settings into the meny. It's a lot there to enhance the quality of the picture. And don't hesitate to ask for help. It's a lot of people here with great experience wich will help you out. Will you do any wildlife filming? Good luck! __________________ - Per Johan

January 5th, 2007, 11:38 PM	#21
Dale Guthormsen Inner Circle Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Saskatchewan Posts: 3,048	Michele, all the aforementioned is good information. I suspect the first thing you'll do to alter your images is to work out the presets to get the image looking true, or in a manner you want for effect. Get the blubarn program, down load some of the presets and shoot some practice footage. I recomend the techncolor preset for number one to start, and the black and white preset for focusing as number 3. that leaves number two open for you to create one of your own. __________________ DATS ALL FOLKS Dale W. Guthormsen

January 8th, 2007, 08:55 AM	#24
Tony Davies-Patrick Trustee Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Worldwide Posts: 1,589	Michele - the Exposure Lock button does work and holds the exposure, but you must also keep the lens zoom position fixed at the same setting througout the shoot. The reason that you are seeing a fluctuation of exposure when you zoom from WIDE to TELEPHOTO position and back again is because the Iris/aperture of the XL 20X AF lens does not remain constant between wide and telephoto settings. Only a zoom lens with a true fixed aperture will provide unchanging iris opening (The XL 16X Manual Servo lens is better in this regard). Just check in the viewfinder and you'll observe that the lens aperture of the AF IS 20X lens will close down slightly from f/1.6 to about f/3.4 when you zoom between wide to telephoto, so the Exp Lock will obviously not keep the lens at f/1.6 throughout the zoom. __________________ www.WILDCARP.com www.NIKON.me.uk

January 8th, 2007, 09:30 AM	#26
Tony Davies-Patrick Trustee Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Worldwide Posts: 1,589	As Greg has mentioned, the Auto Gain button set on "A" will cause a constant change of the exposure as you swing the lens to different framing. I find best results are when the Gain is left on Minus -3 and rarely move it off that position unless light levels are really low. I do use 'M' Manual position on the main dial, but much prefer to twist it to Av for run-n-gun stuff. For difficult lighting and fast-changing backgrounds - such as when a person is moving constantly from evenly lit background to harsh backlight or highly reflective water and grey sky in the background, I simply frame on a subject that is properly exposed, such as evenly lit area of green grass, quickly press the Exp Lock button and then swing back to the main subject; or simply take a meter reading off the subject's evenly lit skin tone, press the Exp lock button and then continue shooting. Regarding the fluctuation of the iris as you zoom in tight - you'll notice that the iris will remain fairly constant at f2.8 through most of the middle zoom range and only changes to f/3.4 at the very tightest telephoto position. __________________ www.WILDCARP.com www.NIKON.me.uk

January 4th, 2007, 01:13 PM	#17
Michele Coser Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Parma - Italy Posts: 91	Per, right now not. But who knows... in fact my father know (and also i, a bit) another person that is the editor of an historical magazine about the "Francigen Way" an historical road that in the middle ages lead pilgrims from england to Rome, so maybe there's a chance to do something. I tried some settings today, right now i'm putting the footage on a dvd to see how is on a tv.

January 5th, 2007, 09:07 AM	#18
Michele Coser Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Parma - Italy Posts: 91	Ok, i've tested the camera a bit. I'm still waiting for someone that can help me "acting" in some shots. It was'nt great at night, i was hoping a bit more sensitivity... but at least there is no gain, and that's good because i hate gain in black areas. However is just a matter of being in a enough-lit zone and i think you got no problem. Here whe have public illuumination that is orange-red, and i think i made a preset that lower saturation and red, when the sun goes down i'll try it. Just some question: I shoot in 25p, the shutter speed must be 50? When outside, what's better: use the ND filter or close more the iris? i think it depends from the situation... I use the M manual mode, and even if i set the exposition at the right level, sometimes it looks like if there is some sort of auto exposition; and i don't know how to turn it off.

January 6th, 2007, 04:07 AM	#22
Michele Coser Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Parma - Italy Posts: 91	Tony, i've tried the "exp lock" button, but don't do anything. I was making this test: pointing the camera toward a well lit corridor the exposition is right, but if i zoom on a small thing the iris auto-close itself more. I am into manual mode (M on the body ring); is there something i have to tweak on the menu? As i said the "Exp lock" button does nothing. Tonight i have to shoot an event into a church. Yesterday when they were doing reharsals i was here to setup the camera. However there is very low light (they want to have a certain atmosphere). Plus i will probably on the side where the spectators are, and all the lights are bheind the actors. I have the iris full open and the gain at 12, still is dark and grainy.

January 8th, 2007, 08:10 AM	#23
Michele Coser Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Parma - Italy Posts: 91	http://www.fileshack.us/v/9805813/xl2aetest.mpg.html I uploaded this file. is only 5mb (10 sec) to see that auto exposition. It is clear that when i zoom out the iris open more. I was un M (full manual mode); there is no way to lock the exposition at all? It seems dmub to me that a so powerful camcorder has still this auto-exposition and that you can not turn it off.

January 8th, 2007, 10:10 AM	#27
Michele Coser Regular Crew Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Parma - Italy Posts: 91	Yes, but i'm pretty sure i notice an auto adjustment of the exposure one time that i was shooting a medium shot of a road and a truck passed over. I must be wrong (maybe i was in some auto-mode) but i almost have used only the manual mode.