Polarizing Filter
 

Im shooting with the XL1 with a Fujinon Lens. I want to saturate the colors as much as possible. Should I go with a circular polarizer or should i save my money and just buy the linear one.

I'd recommend a circular polarizer (CP). It's my understanding that CP's have a coating on the lens-side of the filter that prevents the lens' own polarizing coatings from causing color aberrations when used in combination with the filter.

That's news to me. Circular polarizers are designed to avoid issues with camera systems that use beam splitters that polarize the light passing through them, to avoid cross-polarization which can black out the image or fool the internal metering system, both functions of film cameras . Although as I write this, I wonder about the prism that divides the incoming light rays to the 3 chips inside the camera. I've always used a linear polarizer with excellent results with 3 chip cameras though. My preference is the B&W/Schneider True-Pol.

The problem with using a CP on the Fujinon lens is that the front element rotates so you'll have to change the CP position everytime you zoom or focus.

That's a good point Adrian, and true of the linear polarizer as well. It's an excellent argument for using a mattebox with rods in combination with the manual lens to prevent this from happening. Although I understand the front element of the new 16x manual lens doesn't rotate....?

I use one of those "Moose" polarizers on my GL1 - it combines an 81A with a cir pol. Sort of a warming effect. Really cool. Different. Especially nice for colorful foliage, early and late light.

Hi all

Somewhere I read that linear polarisers confuse AF systems and that for video circular polarisers are a must. Don't ask me where or when I read this but that's what caused me to go the circular route.

It may have been in one of the Canopus forums.

Regards
Andrew