You have the Canon 1.6x XL extender for example that would
turn the 3x into a 4.8x lens, but that would not nearly get into
the same range as a 16x times. I don't think it is possible what
you want. I guess that's what the whole swappable lens feature
is for anyway. Just put the 16x lens on it.

just got a 3x lens... gets blurry when converting from frame mode to 24p.
 

i just got 3x lens for me xl1s and it gets very blurry during pan shots when i convert from frame mode (30p right?) to 24p to burn on DVD. frame mode looks spectacular. there's no "need" to do that i was just experimenting. i mean ... how do people like soderberg use the xl1s and then transfer it to film and have it still look OK?

Ok, I have never do this thing and I could be wrong, but I don't think that it is due to the 3X lens. People like Soderberg generally use PAL version when they want to go to film. Because PAL is 25 fps and it is easy to convert to 24P. It is almost impossible to have good results with 30P to 24P. I have read somewhere that most of the transfer labs require to work with 60i instead of 30p (or frame mode) to convert NTSC footage to film.

So you claim it goes wrong when you go from 30p to 24p. The
all important question is then: what software are you using and
which settings. The big boys have highly advanced software to
do such conversions as best as possible, usually with some
human supervision to tweak areas.

vegas5.

Why are you converting 30p to 24p? This will inevitably cause problems. It is not designed to work this way. To extrapolate 24p from 30p causes some serious artifacts.

If you shoot 30p then you are best to stick to 30p for all output. If you need 24p then you would be better off shooting on a camera capable of this frame rate.

Best regards,
John.

It would be better to do 60i to 24p than 30p to 24p. Of course it is best to do 24p as John point out.

Would it work any better if you converted 30p to 60i, then go to 24p?

Probably not, but try a short segment and see what it looks like.

good idea, i'll have to experiment next time i get my cam out =^).

"Would it work any better if you converted 30p to 60i, then go to 24p?"

You can't convert 30p to 60i since it is already 60i, with complete frames over two fields as opposed to two seprate motion fields - it's still stored 60i on tape. You can't recreate motion where non exists.

The problem will always remain that 30p into 24p does not go elegantly. There will be serious motion artifacts.

I don't know what you feel will be gained by converting 30p into 24p - are you after more of a 'film look'? It will not add to this. Are you wanting to output to film? You'd be much better off shooting regular 60i for that with the Canon XL1s or get hold of the DVX100a for true 24p.

Best regards,
John.

ok i plan to try the 60i->24p. i'm just experimenting with the film looks, yesh. i may also get the XL2 next spring, but meanwhile... need to emulate some 24p.

"but meanwhile... need to emulate some 24p."

24p won't add anything specifically more filmic than 30p - it's only really useful for where you've shot in the format and plan to work in a 24p timeline for either transfer to film or 24p DVD - but if you haven't shot in 24p it is pretty redundant other than taking 60i interlaced footage for txfr to film.

24p derived from 60i has it's own set of problems too - though not as serious as 30p to 24p - you will get motion artifacts on moving scenes, caused by interpolation of interlaced footage to progressive.

Honestly your best bet is to stick with 30p (frame mode XL1s) and experiment with colour correction etc. 30p progressive can look just as much like 'film' on video as 24p and you will have none of the problems that you are facing now. There is nothing magical about 24p versus 30p that suddenly makes it 'film'.

Best regards,
John.

ok thx =).

Question about 3x wide lens
 

Is the 3x wide lens for the Canon XL1s fisheye?