ISO/ASA Ratings for the XL1s

Don Palomaki · October 9th, 2002, 07:41 AM

You have now seen number of posts that tend to be in violent agreement that IOS/ASA speed ratings are of rather limited value for determining proper video camera exposure. The best approach is probably to use a good monitor and waveform scope. After all, video provides realtime feedback while film needs to be processed to determine if the exposure was correct.

However, if you want to use a light meter feel free to do so, but do some experiments to see that setting works best for you and what the limitations are with various subjects and lighting situations. You may find that for many situations something in the range of ISO 160 to ISO 320 at 0 dB gain is in the right ball park.

Justin Chin · October 13th, 2002, 03:13 PM

I primarily use a light meter to light a set before picture is up. I've gotten quite used to zoning my lighting to accommodate video. There are really only 5 exposure zones for video so it's rather simple.

I have a twisted way of metering that I don't even bother relating to a gaffer or any DP that I work with. It's only suited for zoning with the mini35 in place, but works quite well for my taste.

I use both incident and spot metering. After you've done a hundred set ups you'll get to know where your light is doing for you. I take some pride in lighting without looking at a monitor. Especially when there isn't one set up yet. Plus, it's nice to know how it's going to look before you move a camera to another set up. You can tell the DP or AD how long it's going to take for the next shot and the shot after that.

John Klein · October 23rd, 2002, 11:20 AM

since you talk of using a zone system. The cam's ready for you. "Place" solid white on .95 zebra and let it all fall from there. That's what I do. I shoot a guy in a white robe. When the zebras hit, I stop opening up any more.

Ok actually I set it for 90 IRE and open a bit more, but it's solid. Ballpark of iso 200 was my finding on the 1S. Never used it, though.

Zebras, Zebras, Zebras (and thank God for the 1/4 stop exp. increments as you'll never be too far off).

October 13th, 2002, 03:13 PM	#17
Justin Chin Major Player Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Oakland, CA Posts: 227	I primarily use a light meter to light a set before picture is up. I've gotten quite used to zoning my lighting to accommodate video. There are really only 5 exposure zones for video so it's rather simple. I have a twisted way of metering that I don't even bother relating to a gaffer or any DP that I work with. It's only suited for zoning with the mini35 in place, but works quite well for my taste. I use both incident and spot metering. After you've done a hundred set ups you'll get to know where your light is doing for you. I take some pride in lighting without looking at a monitor. Especially when there isn't one set up yet. Plus, it's nice to know how it's going to look before you move a camera to another set up. You can tell the DP or AD how long it's going to take for the next shot and the shot after that. __________________ justin www.monsterrocket.com Filmmaker \| Cinematographer

October 23rd, 2002, 11:20 AM	#18
John Klein Regular Crew Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Wisconsin, USA Posts: 182	since you talk of using a zone system. The cam's ready for you. "Place" solid white on .95 zebra and let it all fall from there. That's what I do. I shoot a guy in a white robe. When the zebras hit, I stop opening up any more. Ok actually I set it for 90 IRE and open a bit more, but it's solid. Ballpark of iso 200 was my finding on the 1S. Never used it, though. Zebras, Zebras, Zebras (and thank God for the 1/4 stop exp. increments as you'll never be too far off). __________________ < >< . . . . . < >< . . . . . < ><

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October 9th, 2002, 07:41 AM	#16
Don Palomaki Wrangler Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Northern VA Posts: 4,487	You have now seen number of posts that tend to be in violent agreement that IOS/ASA speed ratings are of rather limited value for determining proper video camera exposure. The best approach is probably to use a good monitor and waveform scope. After all, video provides realtime feedback while film needs to be processed to determine if the exposure was correct. However, if you want to use a light meter feel free to do so, but do some experiments to see that setting works best for you and what the limitations are with various subjects and lighting situations. You may find that for many situations something in the range of ISO 160 to ISO 320 at 0 dB gain is in the right ball park.