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Old February 28th, 2008, 11:28 AM   #31
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Lord knows I'm no expert (still futzing around "geting ready" and yet to actually shoot a greenscreen) but it seems like the lights are too close to the screen and are hotspotting - maybe move them back further and more off to the side and play with aiming them to get more even light.
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Old February 28th, 2008, 12:17 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Nate Benson View Post
nope, live in a 3 bedroom apartment in downtown buffalo.
the building next to me is condemned and windowless. at dusk in the summer you can see hordes of bats coming out of there.
sounds like an awsome sight...never got any footage of this??
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Old February 28th, 2008, 01:20 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Jim Andrada View Post
Lord knows I'm no expert (still futzing around "geting ready" and yet to actually shoot a greenscreen) but it seems like the lights are too close to the screen and are hotspotting - maybe move them back further and more off to the side and play with aiming them to get more even light.
For the table set up, I was only concerned about screen screen directly behind end of table, so lights are really pinched in. Genearlly, I would have the flourescents at edges pointed about 45 degrees. In shooting, it does come out fairly even looking.
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Old April 11th, 2008, 01:17 PM   #34
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green screen lighting

This thread has been very helpful. I'm unsure of the best way to get even lighting. Should it be florecents all the way around or a combo of florecents and halogen work lights. I'm using a Canon HG-10 and Vegas 7. Are there any known issues in use of lighting?
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Old April 11th, 2008, 02:57 PM   #35
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One more alternative:

If there is such a thing as the "perfect" shade of green for keying, it may not always be necessary to test various brands of paint and their respective color values and/or color names. (Paints, whether tinted or not, also have reflective (LRV) values that can be found in the "fanfold" of samples for each company).

If you can get a sample of "the perfect green" (isn't that called money :)...), then some stores (Home Depot for one) can scan the sample you provide and their computer will create a custom blend of paint tints that will reproduce the color almost exactly. I've done it a number of times for rooms in my home and it ends up being pretty darn close. Take your sample to the paint desk and ask the salesperson. Some brands of paint come out right on, while others can be off a little. In my experience, Ralph Lauren paint tinted to another company's color tends to be the most difficult to match. (It's also a bit more expensive).

Perhaps the hardest part of doing an entire room might be to apply the paint nice and evenly.

Also, if you'll be priming the walls prior to painting, get the primer tinted to the same color as the paint. It shouldn't cost any more money, but that may/may be possible, because there may not be enough room in the can of primer for the amount of tint(s) that are necessary.

Lastly, my hunch would be to use a flat or matte finish, not an eggshell, or anything shinier. Some brands (Behr, for one), have what they call a flat enamel. If you look closely, you'll see it's just a tiny bit more shiny than the plain flat finish. I'd only use that if you need resistance to water or moisture.

Good luck.
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