Filters to reduce contrast, Pro mist, et al

Mark Jervis · December 12th, 2003, 12:11 PM

If at all possible, using filters during production is usually the best course of action. Certain filters can be achieved in post without much difference, ie. warming filters but other fiters can make a large difference in shooting. With this camera I have been experimenting with some softening filters and diffusion filters and have been able to reduce some hilight problems caused by the lower latitude. Trying to achieve that in post would be impossible as once it is recorded to the tape the section is already blown out. Your best bet is to figure out what filters you would use and then experiment with them on this camera in various situations and also try to achieve them in post with raw footage. You may find certain filters work better in different situtations. But as a I stated, filters in production are always better than post filters.

Mark Jervis

Gabor Lacza · December 12th, 2003, 03:48 PM

Thanks for the quick answer....it is the 52mm filters which are to be used for this camera right ??

Mark Jervis · December 12th, 2003, 03:50 PM

Right, 52mm. If you need any advice on what filters to use or what certain ones do please let me know.

Mark Jervis

Darrin McMillan · October 8th, 2005, 05:22 AM

I have been shooting with my hd10 since January. I still haven't picked up any filters for it. I know I should use an ND filter, but which one is best for this camera. Brand / Stops/ Type. Any help would be great.
Cheers
Darrin

Ken Hodson · October 12th, 2005, 01:52 PM

A variety is best. That way you can adapt to differant conditions. Check what a good on line retailer has to offer as far as a multi pack, maybe .3 .6 .9 at a price that works for you.
Also do a search in this HD1/10 forum for ND/ND filter or variable ND. You should get some good ideas.

Darrin McMillan · October 13th, 2005, 11:22 AM

Thanks Ken :)

Steve Nunez · October 14th, 2005, 05:26 PM

Get 2 circular polarizers and when you rotate them you'll get a variable ND filter from no effect to almost full black- give it a try!

Ken Hodson · November 7th, 2005, 01:21 AM

Try to ND down to F8 or F5.6 but try not to go lower if possible. This cam loves light!

Tom Roper · November 7th, 2005, 08:38 PM

I've used the 2-polarizer trick. It's convenient, but I like the result from using a polarizer alone or in combination with a .3 or .6 ND filter better.

If it's very bright, I use the .6 ND and polarizer, or if medium bright .3 ND and polarizer, and so on. Basically what I try for, is to get the combination of partial polarization and ND that gets me near 1/60 shutter speed at the preferred aperture.

I find I can overdo it with the polarizer though. Rather than turn it down to the darkest, I try for something halfway between its maximum and minimum effect.

It helps to turn on exposure lock before adjusting the polarizer ring.

With practice, you can achieve a 100% improvement in exposure latitude.

Ken Hodson · November 8th, 2005, 04:28 AM

Interesting Tom. I have never tried to E lock befor adjusting variable polarizer. Whats the therory behind that? I guess it keeps the cam from trying to compensate while adjusting? I can't believe I never tried it that way befor.
I have found that with shutter locked a 1/60 then adjusting ND/pola's down, that exposure doesn't fluxuate, but it can be tricky if the light levels change too much. Are you managing to get steady 1/60th with E locked and adjustable pola?

Tom Roper · November 8th, 2005, 09:03 AM

As you noted, E-locking the exposure before rotating the polarizer ring keeps the cam from trying to compensate, making it easier to judge the result.

And no, I'm not managing to get total assurance of 1/60th unless I lock in shutter priority.

After adjusting the polarizer ring with exposure locked, I unlock the exposure and may choose aperture priority along with ND and polarizer, toggling exposure modes to get an estimate of what the final shutter speed would be arrived at, and hopefully as close to 1/60th as possible. If the shutter speed deviates after that while panning or the light level changes, so be it.

December 12th, 2003, 12:11 PM	#16
Mark Jervis Regular Crew Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Savannah, GA Posts: 66	Filters If at all possible, using filters during production is usually the best course of action. Certain filters can be achieved in post without much difference, ie. warming filters but other fiters can make a large difference in shooting. With this camera I have been experimenting with some softening filters and diffusion filters and have been able to reduce some hilight problems caused by the lower latitude. Trying to achieve that in post would be impossible as once it is recorded to the tape the section is already blown out. Your best bet is to figure out what filters you would use and then experiment with them on this camera in various situations and also try to achieve them in post with raw footage. You may find certain filters work better in different situtations. But as a I stated, filters in production are always better than post filters. Mark Jervis

December 12th, 2003, 03:48 PM	#17
Gabor Lacza Regular Crew Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Budapest , Hungary Posts: 194	Thanks Thanks for the quick answer....it is the 52mm filters which are to be used for this camera right ??

December 12th, 2003, 03:50 PM	#18
Mark Jervis Regular Crew Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Savannah, GA Posts: 66	Filters Right, 52mm. If you need any advice on what filters to use or what certain ones do please let me know. Mark Jervis

October 8th, 2005, 05:22 AM	#19
Darrin McMillan Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 96	Filter? I have been shooting with my hd10 since January. I still haven't picked up any filters for it. I know I should use an ND filter, but which one is best for this camera. Brand / Stops/ Type. Any help would be great. Cheers Darrin

October 12th, 2005, 01:52 PM	#20
Ken Hodson Trustee Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vancouver BC Canada Posts: 1,315	A variety is best. That way you can adapt to differant conditions. Check what a good on line retailer has to offer as far as a multi pack, maybe .3 .6 .9 at a price that works for you. Also do a search in this HD1/10 forum for ND/ND filter or variable ND. You should get some good ideas. __________________ Damnit Jim, I'm a film maker not a sysytems tech.

October 13th, 2005, 11:22 AM	#21
Darrin McMillan Regular Crew Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Kingston, Ontario Posts: 96	Thanks Thanks Ken :)

October 14th, 2005, 05:26 PM	#22
Steve Nunez Trustee Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Pembroke Pines, Florida Posts: 1,418	Get 2 circular polarizers and when you rotate them you'll get a variable ND filter from no effect to almost full black- give it a try! __________________ Steve Nunez-New York City www.stevenunez.com

November 7th, 2005, 01:21 AM	#23
Ken Hodson Trustee Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vancouver BC Canada Posts: 1,315	Try to ND down to F8 or F5.6 but try not to go lower if possible. This cam loves light! __________________ Damnit Jim, I'm a film maker not a sysytems tech.

November 7th, 2005, 08:38 PM	#24
Tom Roper Trustee Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Denver, Colorado Posts: 1,891	I've used the 2-polarizer trick. It's convenient, but I like the result from using a polarizer alone or in combination with a .3 or .6 ND filter better. If it's very bright, I use the .6 ND and polarizer, or if medium bright .3 ND and polarizer, and so on. Basically what I try for, is to get the combination of partial polarization and ND that gets me near 1/60 shutter speed at the preferred aperture. I find I can overdo it with the polarizer though. Rather than turn it down to the darkest, I try for something halfway between its maximum and minimum effect. It helps to turn on exposure lock before adjusting the polarizer ring. With practice, you can achieve a 100% improvement in exposure latitude.

November 8th, 2005, 04:28 AM	#25
Ken Hodson Trustee Join Date: Aug 2003 Location: Vancouver BC Canada Posts: 1,315	Interesting Tom. I have never tried to E lock befor adjusting variable polarizer. Whats the therory behind that? I guess it keeps the cam from trying to compensate while adjusting? I can't believe I never tried it that way befor. I have found that with shutter locked a 1/60 then adjusting ND/pola's down, that exposure doesn't fluxuate, but it can be tricky if the light levels change too much. Are you managing to get steady 1/60th with E locked and adjustable pola? __________________ Damnit Jim, I'm a film maker not a sysytems tech.

November 8th, 2005, 09:03 AM	#26
Tom Roper Trustee Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Denver, Colorado Posts: 1,891	As you noted, E-locking the exposure before rotating the polarizer ring keeps the cam from trying to compensate, making it easier to judge the result. And no, I'm not managing to get total assurance of 1/60th unless I lock in shutter priority. After adjusting the polarizer ring with exposure locked, I unlock the exposure and may choose aperture priority along with ND and polarizer, toggling exposure modes to get an estimate of what the final shutter speed would be arrived at, and hopefully as close to 1/60th as possible. If the shutter speed deviates after that while panning or the light level changes, so be it.

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