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Old August 29th, 2007, 09:02 AM   #16
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i'm afraid to put my 22lbs on a Flyer on wedding shoots :-)
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Old September 1st, 2007, 03:31 PM   #17
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The Sachtler artemis DV Pro supports up to 28 pounds.

Here is a link:
http://www.artemis-hd.com/produkte/a...ebersicht.html

The fancy full color brochure is linked on the above page (see top right) to versions in 7 languages. The PDF brochure has a chart with all the variations of the unit and the weight they support.

Interestingly, the webpage and brochure shows a JVC ProHD setup on the unit.l

I can't find any price listings anywhere, and it seems the Sachtler products are hard to find in the U.S. However, they should be around more in Europe. It looks very nice, but I think it might be expensive.
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Old September 2nd, 2007, 03:40 AM   #18
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Eric, I'd love to know how you market your wedding videos and shoot with such a beast (in the nicest possible meaning of the word) of a configuration.

I have shoot a lot of weddings with a JVC DV500 and there are a lot shooting with the likes of the DSR-250, end even a few around with Sony 450s, but your rig is so long and I assume difficult to handle.

Is it really worth going to that extent for a wedding? I hope you are charging accordingly. Do you shoot everything with this rig or just the location shoot?
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Old September 2nd, 2007, 03:29 PM   #19
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for 900 to 1000 dollars you could get a brevis 35 and go handheld- with accessories (firestore, IDX batts) the weight distribution is quite nice. add some carbon rails to the mix for stability.
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Old September 3rd, 2007, 04:53 AM   #20
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I have used a HD100 with a Brevis 35 and rails system on a monopod fairly successfully at weddings. It reduces shaking considerably and also allows me to focus etc.

I find it almost impossible to shoulder mount this setup as its really front-heavy.

Drew
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Old September 10th, 2007, 08:49 AM   #21
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Guy, with this rig i shoot Bride & Groom session (outdoor only), Church, and cocktail (no light enough for reception without using HMI).

you are right, it's impossible to go shoulder mounted with this configuration. The Firestore helps me balance the camera well on tripod so it's not that so front-heavy.

Shooting with longer lense (nikkor 85 f1.4) helps and is welcome.

i'll have a look at the artemis
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Old September 12th, 2007, 12:56 PM   #22
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Drew, I have to second that. Not so much the part about it being front heavy, but about the whole rig being HEAVY. I shot this way for about an hour yesterday and my arms definitely tired out very fast. I think this is where an EngRig Pro comes in VERY handy. In fact, it made me wonder if i should be selling it.

I think for short bursts of shooting it isnt too bad though.
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Old September 17th, 2007, 10:46 AM   #23
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i'm looking for a stabilizer (no money for $30 000 steadicam) that could do the job a good way
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Old December 4th, 2007, 10:50 AM   #24
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Hi,

i'm coming back again, i'm going with a Flyer i might but next week. Phil, please if you read this post, could you explain how you did to attach the DR HD100 drive next to the battery at the bottom of the sled ?
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Old December 5th, 2007, 04:17 PM   #25
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In the set up on my website I've used a standard SWIT accessory that slides onto the back of the battery. This part will only work on SWIT batteries. This allows a ball socket with a slide on base (as on still camera flash attachments) to be used to attach the hard drive case.
When I get time I want to make something that will allow me to attach the DR HD100 to the top of the arm that holds the monitor, (or the bottom of the centre post). This would greatly assist dynamic balance and may be as simple as tapping a threaded hole into this arm or just an adaptor that can be clipped on with a thread to match the case that holds the DR HD100. The hard drive can be powered from the D tap power socket on the spare battery bracket and an extended Firewire cable run down past the monitor at the front of the sled. Running the firewire cable to the front rather than the back allows switching between the "missionary" and "don juan" operating positions. We didn't have access to a long enough firewire cable at this location on this day though.
One thing I have also done is adapt an old V lock battery housing by removing the cells and wiring in a cable that plugs into the Flyer's camera power socket to lighten the camera. If you are using a 200 or 250 series JVC camera you won't need this because of the 4 pin XLR power socket on the camera.
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Old December 5th, 2007, 04:50 PM   #26
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thank you Phil
I'm using a SWIT battery but i can't find were is the dtap power ?
This will be helpful as i won't buy another battery and charger for the hard drive only.
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