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Old January 29th, 2008, 06:40 AM   #1
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Hd100+adapter+nikon80-200ed

After testing my DIY hybrid adapter for 35 and 645 I felt i lacked a good zoom and long lens.

I found the 80-200 f2.8 to be a very capable and bright lens that i believe will take the place of 3 primes that i have in my kit, an 85mm f2, 105mm f2.8 and a 200mm f3.5. This lens has better color rendition and contrast similar to the contrast and rendition to my mamiya 645 80mm f1.9 lens.

I posted some grabs at the alternative imaging thread on this adapter here. http://www.dvinfo.net/conf/showthrea...=109473&page=3

Heres a pic of the set up at 31 inches long!
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Old January 29th, 2008, 08:55 AM   #2
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Ted.

The f2.8 80mm x 200mm Nikon has a good chance of being better than a 30 yr old Auto Tamron f3.5 80mm x 250mm and that lens was sweet.

I didn't give it much creedence as a viable adaptor lens however I took it along when asked for a longer lens by a young director who has shot a commercial and one or two scenes in a short feature with it and likes the look.

Handheld he likes it too.

What would be your chances of obtaining or building a bridging lead and bringing the viewfinder furthur forward so that you can add a small bridgeplate, pad it and balance the whole thing.

That looks like a pretty serious piece of hardware. Don't ever take it to Iraq, Afghanistan or any of your own local trouble spots. Apparently ENG cams have been misidentified as rocket launchers with harmful outcomes to cameramen. I have enough trouble using my own adaptor with people accusing me of running a speed camera and becoming quite hostile.

Last edited by Bob Hart; January 29th, 2008 at 09:06 AM. Reason: added text
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Old January 29th, 2008, 09:25 AM   #3
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Actually Bob, that is already in the works. The first thing i finished is a hand grip that attaches to the rod system. It has two spread out grips so i can stabilize it best.

Then im currently cannibalizing a sony V5000 hi8 cam so i can use its shoulder pad.

Also working on a mount that will move the viewfinder forward.

With the rig balanced on the shoulder, its actually stable.

I had a Tokina 200mm f3.5 it was good. But the nikon just blew it out of the water on all fronts.

Sharpness, contrast, color rendition, luminance, no distortion and theres that good look to the image that we in the studio can't describe.

Last edited by Ted Ramasola; January 29th, 2008 at 09:33 AM. Reason: added text
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Old February 5th, 2008, 09:48 PM   #4
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Hey Ted, what rails are those? They look like you could stand on them.

Nice work by the way.
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Old February 6th, 2008, 03:11 AM   #5
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Eric,

Thanks, I designed them myself from CAD, sent to a machine shop and had 3 sets made for my other cams.

Heres a couple of pics of them disassembled and one put together.

I got an endless supply of stainless steel rods from a home fix it store.

--don't laugh, theyre shower curtain rods. cheap, but it works.

Ted

p.s say hi to brian for me.
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Old February 7th, 2008, 07:41 AM   #6
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Nice piece of equip, I checked out the pics via your link. Great result. I have the 101e and have a 35mm adapter however, it looks nothing like yours. Its just a ring that suits the nikon lense. I need to get out and shoot away with my f2.8 80mm x 200mm Nikon. Its only been on the camera for a few mins and i didn't even button on. I'm scared now after seeing your beast that i'm missing something or not going to get the best result.

Is my adapter up to the job
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Old February 8th, 2008, 02:20 PM   #7
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Allan, look at posts on the zoerk adapter.
There are 2 very different things to do with nikon lenses.
A/ use a mount adapter (like zoerk, and you?). The nikon lenses all become MUCH more powerful telephoto lenses. Basically, the 80-200mm zoom will START where your normal 16x fujinon lens zooms to max telephoto.
This is amazing for certain things (eg wildlife, certain sports), but highly impractical for most daily shooting.

B/ a setup that mounts a resolving image plane in FRONT of your existing lens (or in front of a "relay" lens). This setup allows you to use the nikon lenses with similar perspective and "effective" focal length as they would be on the original 35mm camera. The main reason for doing this is is to NARROW the range of in-focus elements at a particular perspective, thus bringing viewers attention to your subject and blurring the background.


Both have their unique uses, with no overlap in functionality. Be aware that you are entering challenging waters here. IMHO, I would only pursue these if you have a very specific thing in mind that you can't achieve with the normal lens. Caveat emptor.
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