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Old March 28th, 2008, 12:53 AM   #1
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Hd100 Died In Middle Of Shoot

ok, two hours ago our cam went dead. On set we had the cam already running. after sweating it out teasing the 4 small kids arranged on set look in a certain way i noticed the cam blinking Low Voltage. I then asked my grip to replace the battery. After placing the new battery i powered her up. Then nuthin. I thot i didnt place it right. I removed and replaced it. still nuthin. I attached the charger/adapter cord to power direct from the mains. Still nuthin.

Anyone has this same experience? Is there a fuse somewhere inside we can reset?

Geez. Good thing we were location shooting near our studio facility i had a back up SD camera for replacement.

Any suggestions or ideas as to what can make this happen to a seemingly robust camera?


Ted
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Old March 28th, 2008, 01:03 AM   #2
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Were there any alarm sounds or blinking tally lamps when you turn the switch on?
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Old March 28th, 2008, 01:47 AM   #3
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Tim,

Nuthin. no warnings whatsoever. I had my tech guys open her up and found out we blew a fuse. as of now her guts are all over the table.
We jumpered the contacts and she came back to life. I'm considering upping the amp of the fuse a little bit. Is this advicable?

Ted
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Old March 28th, 2008, 02:10 AM   #4
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Tim,

I'm considering upping the amp of the fuse a little bit. Is this advicable?

Ted
Under most circumstances, your house, your car, your Nuclear Submarine, your HD100, this is usually a BAD idea. If something is causing a surge, probably better to figure out what that "something" is rather than bulking up the fuse capacity. Take it to Gerrysonic.

What's the location of that fuse anyway?
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Old March 28th, 2008, 02:27 AM   #5
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Brian,

John was the one who operated on her, hes the video cam surgeon. Gerysonic is the audio whiz guy. I had my hunch that the battery i replaced caused the surge . I charged it last night using a third party charger. That must have been it. He removed the blown fuse already. man its so tiny. Using a caliper, its 3mm long and 1.5mm wide.

Ted

Last edited by Ted Ramasola; March 28th, 2008 at 03:07 AM.
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Old March 28th, 2008, 07:03 AM   #6
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Ted.


If the miniature fuse you took out is a wire type fuse in an enclosure, glass or whatever, sometimes it is just one of those things. There is not much difference between passing a heavy load and going open circuit.

The weather up your way is likely fairly warm all the time, indoors with lights, being powered up for a few hours?

The camera, which is a hot beast at the best of times, may have got hot enough that a normal initial surge as capactors and things in the power management of the camera sucked up a good drink of power off the new battery, might have been enough to send an already hot fuse over the edge.

Some wire fuses also work-harden from expanding and contracting with normal operating heat and can become a bit thin due to cracking and then blow across that narrower resistive section.

All my comments mean nothing if the fuse is some sort of new solid state technology.


Well and truly off-topic. - Up your way, do some of the more remote traditional villagers make do with a live .22 rifle bullet when their automobile fuses blow. It gets very interesting when the fuseholder tangs become resistive due to corrosion and the rim of the bullet warms up.

The old 1983 Toyota Dyna BU20?? trucks had their fuses up near the windscreen. One old traditional fellow in our far north decided to use a bullet. It was common practice, nice new shiny copper = good conductor, problem solved unless the wires burnt due to a short circuit.

No one thought about the heat of a resistive connection cooking off the round until it eventually exploded and put a big circle crack in the glass.

Last edited by Bob Hart; March 28th, 2008 at 07:06 AM. Reason: error
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Old March 28th, 2008, 07:16 AM   #7
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Bob,

Thats soo funny about them villagers using bullets! Hahaha! In my younger years when i shot weddings with VHS, my grip would always open the fuse box in the bride's house, and we would find all sorts of wierd jumper fuse contraptions, our own guys would sometimes use the foil in cigarette packs! But i knew of one guy who got careless not checkin the load capacity of his client that it shorted and BURNED DOWN the house!!

Back to topic, the fuse is solid state at 3.15a. Theres a big sign on the motherboard that says REPLACE WITH SAME FUSE... so i guess i'll just use same value fuse. I glad this didnt happen when i was in mid -air the day before shooting an aerial shot of beach resorts.

Ted
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Old March 28th, 2008, 03:55 PM   #8
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Well and truly off-topic. - Up your way, do some of the more remote traditional villagers make do with a live .22 rifle bullet when their automobile fuses blow. It gets very interesting when the fuseholder tangs become resistive due to corrosion and the rim of the bullet warms up.
.
I was a Fireman for a long time, and we used to see people put a copper penny rather than replace one of the old glass fuses. A fuse box full of pennies. Not so great.

Ted, I think you should try the .22 bullet for your replacement fuse. Your camera would then be like one of those James Bond cameras that can actually shoot bad guys.
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Old March 29th, 2008, 12:29 AM   #9
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Hahahaha! Sounds cool! anyway, the end to this story is that i got may camera in one piece this morning, the surgeon sewed her back up with a new fuse. Now to reschedule the postponed shoot.
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Old March 29th, 2008, 07:35 AM   #10
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Ted.


We had an uncool moment here this morning on a shoot for a small feature with the HD100 / Mini35.

The owner put a DR100 on the camera. Went to power up - sulking. Pressed record - nothing. Pulled off the new stuff, rebooted the camera and --- no furthur problem ----possibly our mismanagement of the firestore controls within the HD100 but no time left to troubleshoot.

I was immediately compelled to think of your blown fuse. Otherwise, there may be something electrically bad down at the location.

There's been too many redhead bulbs blowing and the Sony HVR-Z1 which has been used on some behind-the-scenes, suddenly forgot it has manual focus, then on the next boot-up now doesn't know it has autofocus. The switch does not do anything.

There must be a bad magnetism running along this few degrees of longitude all the way to Bohol from Perth.
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Old March 29th, 2008, 02:47 PM   #11
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Bob,

Just to get you up to speed on the another thing, I'll post on the thread about my adapter the new results using Wayne Kinney's adapter achromat. You might consider using his on your set up. Or, find an equivalent. More details on the other thread. -just to put in briefly, the difference is very significant. No wonder a lot of users claim the SGpro is the sharpest edge to edge among the bunch.
Take a look at the other thread. I dont want to start another, -or should I? -regarding the achromats ideal for DIY adapters?
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Old March 29th, 2008, 04:36 PM   #12
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so you never said, what side at least is the fuse on ? or is it located in the rear of the camera in the battery mount area ? I take it that the fuse was socketed right ? I've changed them. in fact one would hope they would put a spare fuse in the camera like sure does on their FP series mixer. spare mounted right next to the active one... smart !
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Old March 29th, 2008, 06:38 PM   #13
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Ted


Wayne's lens is probably worth a good look at for a EX1 to Mini35 hack. Edge softness was observable with the Century lenses I have been using even with the 4+ as hard back as I can go with remounting the optics or trimming off some of the threaded shoulder.

The Century can't be too bad because I have been using the 58mm which goes way back to PD150 experiements. A 77mm filter mount might optically be a big ask of it.

Interestingly, the element diameters of the P+S direct relay lens for the JVC and the larger diameter dioptre which goes on front of the lens-in-camera types are smaller than I anticipated.

The front element in both is concave, not convex on its front surface, a totally different design approach it seems. The JVC relay comes with a rear cover cap which bears the trade mark of Scneider-Kreuznach.

Back on topic - the DR100 >> HD100 would not work issue is apparently my misamanagement. The menu setting for the 1394 configaration for the DR100 must be included in a save to a scene file otherwise the camera reboots to the wrong setting next time around.

The owner has been working off the factory defaults and has not ventured into the scene file system and I am so far not with the camera enbough to learn it properly without disrupting a shoot.
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Old March 30th, 2008, 12:28 AM   #14
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Steve,

The location of the fuse is right behind the plastic wall where the battery is mounted. My Cuzn Tech guy had to open the camera apart to get to that area. And no, it wasnt socketed and theres no spare. Good thing is that his electronic repair shop had a lot of stuff, including this really tiny fuse. the sharpened lead end of your pencil is bigger than it.

My guess is, worse case scenario is to jumper the contacts for those without access to these fuses and can open the cam in the field.


Ted
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Old March 30th, 2008, 05:19 PM   #15
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thanks. really dumb not to socket the fuse as it would then be field serviceable to skilled people. guess the next question is, if he replaced the fuse with a standard one, maybe getting a polyfuse ( self healing ) would make for a better repair. if it pops, let it cool off for a minute or two, and you are back up. I would not recommend jumping a fuse unless you are 100% certain there is nothing else wrong. that fuse is protecting everything else. better to burn a .05$ fuse then fry a board. given how small I know it is now, soldering wires onto the pads to add an external fuse is pretty much near impossible. even if you made the connection, flexing the wires would sooner or later rip the copper off of the PCB.
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