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Old March 11th, 2009, 02:28 AM   #1
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HD100 Scene File Recipes Help Thanks Guys.

Frist of all thanks of your time to make this Recipes File Tim.

When i use the HD 100 SCENE FILE RECIPES #1 .
CINE WIDE LATITUDE
LOW-LIGHT
FILMOUT

Same questions on SCENE FILE RECIPES #2.

When i use the HD 100 SCENE FILE RECIPES #2.
Film Noir

Warm (Amelie,Three Kings Act III)

WARM Green Amelie .

and what is the Bleach Bypass?
What Frame rate should the camera be for the Bleach Bypass ?

Cross-Processed Colour Reversal .

What is Film Vert ? .
should the camera be in 24p for all this setting ? any info Thanks in Advance.
Tamim. am8tam@yahoo.com
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Old March 11th, 2009, 12:35 PM   #2
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the frame rate will have nothing to do with the color recipiets. (I kant spull!)

30p. Good for 60p & 60i news/realty show cross conversion broadcast only. (ugly DVD's, far worse than 60i source material)

24p Better choice for DVD/internet/itunes HD.. (iTunes only does 720p at 24fps)(good DVD's) 30p comes out at 960x540 @ 30fps on itunes for instance... might as well shoot DV at that point.

But hey, i'm super opinionated on frame rate.
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Old March 11th, 2009, 02:17 PM   #3
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Alex you always nice to lessons to you so what is the best setting to use on 24p film look in the camera ?
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Old March 11th, 2009, 10:47 PM   #4
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follow up thoughts, (on the drive home from work)

1. Make sure your monitor/tv is properly calibrated. I don't know how many people play with their settings for their camera with their computer monitor/HDTV setup for gaming... obvious I know, but people forget to calibrate.

2. I've gone full circle with the different recipes. I would recommend to not use them at first and try them sparingly pointing your camera out the window at a still life of your setup and see what you think while watching your properly calibrated TV/Monitor. Honestly I went through most of those, and I'm back to the following.

Cinegama & CineColor matrix on.. Color +2, Detail -1 24p. zebra's 70-80%. When doing sports or other changing lighting, I run my user programable buttons to AE +/- so I can counter act the auto iris up to 1 stop at 1/3 incriments. That way I can tame highlights on faces in a fairly automatic mode quickly. Generally running in daylight (direct sun) with the AE -1 on. (that meaning 1/3 of a stop). I could/should maybe have black stretch of 1 on, but I'm not worrying about it. On a cloudy day, leave the black stretch/compress alone and bring the AE +/- to normal. If you are doing drama/scripted etc, then definatly use the aperture on manual. I would use manual even for sports, (I get conned into these things in my spare time) but I don't trust the LCD monitor that much. When in doubt, under expose vs over expose. Treat the CCD's like they are positive film instead of reversal film and you will be fine. Gain? OFF OFF OFF OFF. if you have to use gain, don't go more than +9. If you are doing someting way out there, go the opposite extreme. Put the bottom gain to Auto where it adjusts gain, aperture, everything. It does a good job with ugly environements. But our cameras really don't see in the dark like the old Sony DV-Cam cameras do.

so calibrate your monitor 3 times in a row and see if the looks good. once is never enough unless you are lucky to have a wave monitor and a studio LCD monitor ($3,500 for a 15" for example), but then you wouldn't be asking about bleach bypass.

hope that helped more than hurt. Of course everyone here will have different opinions, so they should chime in as well.
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