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Old November 6th, 2006, 12:13 PM   #1
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any advice on fringing

Hi all,
ive noticed quite a bit of fringing on some of the images from the hd 100.any idea why this occurs and how do I stop it?it normally occurs on bright days on the edege of bright objects(poles, window frames, etc) in areas of contrast. im shooting mainly with paolos colour 3 with the wide angle .82 adaptor. Its mainly purple fringing but can also be green.
thanks.
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Old November 6th, 2006, 12:31 PM   #2
 
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the 16x standard lens has quite a bit of chromatic aberration at full zoom and/or wide open aperture. avoid max zoom magnification and f-stops over f/2.8 by using the ND filters. this should help alot.
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Old November 6th, 2006, 12:45 PM   #3
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There has been alot written about the shortcomings of the stock 16x lens.
You will find loads of information by conducting a search of this forum.

As a general rule, the sweet spot for the lens is F4. Zooming past 45mm will reveal some vignetting.
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Old November 6th, 2006, 02:55 PM   #4
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bill, correct me if i'm wrong, you do mean don't open past 2.8 right?
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Old November 6th, 2006, 02:59 PM   #5
 
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yeppers
it's also adviseable not to stop down below f/8 because of diffraction limits
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Old November 6th, 2006, 03:07 PM   #6
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yes, stock lens suffers badly from green fringing. Stick to around F4/F5.6 and avoid extreme ends of lens.
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Old November 7th, 2006, 07:57 AM   #7
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Thanks for all those replys, they are all very helpful. im shooting outdoors on a sunny day with ND2 and the iris just about closed so I think I need some extra ND, any recemondations for good ND filters?

Tthanks again all.
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Old November 10th, 2006, 06:36 AM   #8
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If there is enough light so you can stop down (even a little) and you don't use the extreme end of your lens it should be fine. Shooting with the iris open should be fine also if your lens is set at a quite wide angle...

Problem is this: the way to achieve the smallest DOF is the same way to achieve maximum effect of fringing (Chromatic abberation). Staying away from the extreme tele will have the biggest effest (just a little away (e.g. 70, 80 mm) will already be A LOT better then go the full 88mm).
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Old November 10th, 2006, 07:55 AM   #9
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Most of the fringing is visable on white buildings, fences and street poles. I shot them at F.11 to F.16 on a sunny day with ND 2, 5.5 on lens. I dont want to change the stutter speed so how do I get the iris close to 5.6 or 4. What is the answer? what other ND filters should I use?

Thanks again for all you help.
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Old November 10th, 2006, 07:57 AM   #10
 
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there are other lenses available, such as the TH17x5BRM, which have better glass in them than the stock 16x. I really think the approach JVC has taken to keep cost as low as possible is very wise. I just wish they would allow a body only purchase, with a lens upgrade. The way it is, once my 17x arrives, the 16x is lost money.
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Old November 10th, 2006, 08:27 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mick Doyle
Most of the fringing is visable on white buildings, fences and street poles. I shot them at F.11 to F.16 on a sunny day with ND 2, 5.5 on lens. I dont want to change the stutter speed so how do I get the iris close to 5.6 or 4. What is the answer? what other ND filters should I use?

Thanks again for all you help.
Can you post a grab of that? I seems very strange to have such fringing on a full wide shot with the aperture almost closed down. It's also unlikely you have overexposed with ND2 and f11-f16...
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