AG-HMC150 in Hawaii HELP
 

i am not so good just good it i got the scene files from Barry and the original ones i want to film the beaches here and outside@! the light here is Brightest as you can think
have it on auto but still either over or underexposed running on 1/64 nd as she ask for
any suggestion for awesome setting in this bright light enviroment?
for ocean /beach shots??
thanks / Home | Chris Talks about

First...
 

First, take it off auto. You don't buy a 3000 dollar camera to leave it on auto.

Now, try messing around with the iris setting. If its fully open its obviously going to be overexposed. Also play around with the scene settings, especially the MASTER PED. This can help darken your shots. The scene settings are probably your best bet after the iris.

-Wendell Frink

Also...
 

Get used to using the Zebra and Waveform monitor too. Those are a HUGE help. Set Zebra1 to 70% and Zebra2 to 105%. The waveform monitor will help you in knowing whether to turn your iris up or down. I agree that you should never have it set on auto unless you're doing a quick shoot of something because you don't have the time to set up the camera.

Great and thanks
 

Great Played with the Master Ped amazing that gives me some on top
What you think about the ND settings??
thanks for the setting also what scene file would you recommend I have all originals and than the one from the 170 .
Anyone has some for the Beach settings in brightest light?
I am using the waveform and i love it (waveform is not see able on external Monitoe or??)
but how high can i go (should i go ) up / i see the middle line and than the top line so 75 % is that ok??
Thanks so much.
I know its just me its a great camera

use the 70% for what and for what the 105 ??
 

use the 70% for what and for what the 105 ??

Clarification
 

The Waveform Monitor will not project on an external monitor, no. You can only see that on the LCD screen on the camera. The top line of the Waveform is 109% (which is pure white) and the bottom line is 0% (pure black). So, you really want your exposure (depending on the look you're going for) to be somewhere between the middle and the top line if you can help it (yes around 75%). Naturally, there will be some areas that will peak the top line and there isn't that much you can do about it (like the sky, sun, or a light bulb) without putting in some filters.

Now, regarding the Zebra settings: When you set Zebra1 to 70% and Zebra2 to 105%, you're using those two settings as a comparison. You want to see Zebra lines over most of the lighter areas of the picture when it's on 70%, but you don't want to see Zebra lines at 105%. This lets you know that the exposure is somewhere between 75% and 99%. That's indicative that you have good exposure.

One of the very first things I do when I'm setting up my camera is to turn on the Zebra button and check both levels. I use my iris to adjust accordingly. Once it looks okay, then I turn that off and turn on the Waveform Monitor to see if it looks good there too as a backup. Although, it's probably a good idea to go ahead and White Balance before you check exposure, because that could potentially make the settings change.

By the way, as I said before, it depends on the look you're going after as to how exposed you want the picture. However, that's considered the average/normal setup. The ND Filter switch should be left alone unless the LCD starts flashing the alert that you need to change to another filter setting.