Panasonic lumix g6, wow

[Bruce Foreman]

Nice highlights reel, Steve. Very good job of "blending" camera looks. I could not pick out any specific cameras.

[Steve Bleasdale]

Thanks Bruce... Hope your well...

[Steve Bleasdale]

low light lens micro thirds but the 45mm 1.8 has no stabilization, the 25mm 1.4 has no stabilization, so what gives, what lens can I get then for low light, I don't think the 12-35 2.8 will cut it? Anyone

[Noa Put]

You do have autofocus on some fast primes but no stabilisation as far as I know. Don't think that even other manufacturers have this, I guess stabilization is only possible with lenses from f2.8 and slower?

[Steve Bleasdale]

Cheers Noa, see this is my point holding back on a gh3, if I get the 5d mark iii I can use a 24-70 vc with 3200 iso and get a clean result. Surely there must be a low light lens with is os vc. The gh3 does not seem to get results low light? am I wrong?

[Dennis Vogel]

Does anyone know if this lens has stabilization?

Amazon.com: Panasonic Lumix G Micro 4/3 LEICA DG SUMMILUX 25mm f/1.4 Leica Aspherical Lens: Camera & Photo

D

[Noa Put]

nope, only autofocus.

[Noa Put]

Originally Posted by Steve Bleasdale

The gh3 does not seem to get results low light? am I wrong?

The gh3 is quite clean at 3200 iso but the 5DIII can go much higher then that before it gets ugly, you"ll start to see the difference between both camera from 6400 iso and up, the gh3 only can do 6400 iso max but I"m sure the 5dIII would be much cleaner at that stage. I have used 6400 iso on the gh3 plenty of times though and it's much cleaner then my 550 was but depending on the lights used (especially red light) it can happen I need to use neatvideo to clean up. That however works great as the image is quite sharp, neatvideo on my 550d footage would turn it into a bit of a mush as it was much softer.

[Noa Put]

Originally Posted by Steve Bleasdale

Surely there must be a low light lens with is os vc.

Like I said before, I don't think there exist a F1.4 stabilized lens, guess it must be a design limitation, I think you need to make a list of "must haves" when it comes to buying a camera with the most important on top, then you need to add a price behind it so you"ll see how that adds up in the end.
If lowlight performance is THE most important on top and you have the budget, get the 5dIII or even better, buy a canon c100.

[Steve Bleasdale]

Yep think your right Noa. Still siding 5d mark iii but will hold out till February before the season kicks in...

[Noa Put]

You better should buy now, I always buy mine when the season ends so I have enough time to practice :)

[Bill Bruner]

Originally Posted by Steve Bleasdale

Cheers Noa, see this is my point holding back on a gh3, if I get the 5d mark iii I can use a 24-70 vc with 3200 iso and get a clean result. Surely there must be a low light lens with is os vc. The gh3 does not seem to get results low light? am I wrong?

Steve - yes, there are wide, fast Panasonic micro 4/3 lenses with stabilization.

With the micro 4/3 crop, the stabilized Panasonic 12-35mm f2.8 with Power O.I.S. is comparable to the Canon 24-70mm f2.8L USM.

I would save my money (and my back) and get the GH3 and the Panasonic 12-35 instead of the significantly heavier and more expensive Canon 5D Mark III and Canon 24-70.

The Panasonic camera/lens combination is so light you can put it on a copter. Here's the GH3 on a Cinestar multirotor with the 12-35 f2.8 lens in low light at ISO1600. Looks pretty clean to me:

Panasonic GH3 night testing with the Cinestar multirotor on Vimeo

Good luck,

Bill
Hybrid Camera Revolution

[Noa Put]

I think Steve means with fast a f1.4 lens and that doesn't exists with stabilization as far as I know.

[Bruce Foreman]

I have and use the 20mm f1.7, 25mm f1.4, 45mm f1.8, and the 75mm f1.8.

None of them have IS and that doesn't cause me any problems. If I'm going handheld I use the lightweight SpiderBrace (shoulder unit with 3 grip handles) and with a bit of attention to what I'm doing I have no real problems holding them still enough. Low light performance is great with all of them.

Admittedly, stabilizing the camera even on the SpiderBrace does begin to get more critical with the 45 and 75 but I love what those lenses are capable of.

Now for stabilization built in, I'm beginning to watch used prices on clean Olympus OMD E-M5 bodies. The built in the body 5 axis stabilization approaches the results of a Steadycam, I've seen some great footage where the stabilization is as clean as can be with little or no shake walking and moving the camera around. The only thing that kept me from buying one of those brand new is that Olympus seems to think we need only one frame rate (30fps).

But I'm looking to pick one of those up if the used (but clean) price drops a bit more, just for where I need stabilization. I shoot mainly at 30p anyway.

Steve, watch the micro four thirds forum sites (several have a lot of UK participants) buy/sell sections for used Lumix 20mm f1.7. Here in the US they seem to be going for $300 and a bit under. You'll maybe find out you need not be dependent on IS especially with the shorter focal lengths.

[Steve Bleasdale]

Hey Bill how are ya...
Cheers for your info, the trouble is Bill, the receptions are getting darker and the past couple I have been running the 60d in 2500 iso at 1.4 and its terrible. The hfg25 is fairing slightly better at 6db but to dark a footage. The reason I want upmost stabilization is that weddings are becoming faster with no time to relax and every wedding is a rush these days. After the meal and mingling the venues seem to want to reduce light that much its annoying but? So I want the GH3 to work and yes its cheaper but I have seen results in dim lit places that a 5d would get better results. Yes its heavier and more costly for sure. Still the gh3 and a 20mm 1.7 may do it I can use my monopod for sure and its better than a rig as chest breathing makes it difficult for me.
I am thinking 5d mark iii with a tamron 24-70 2.8 vc and my 70-200 keep for the full frame I have the 50mm 1.4 job done and with the vc tamron would stop those little jitters and I could work at 6400 iso. Now the gh3 I would need the body the 12-35 2.8 then the 25mm 1.4 or 20mm 1.7 and a long range maybe 30-150 2.8 so both ways its expensive...Both ways would be £2500. Steve