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Old February 9th, 2006, 11:58 PM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steev Dinkins
My thoughts are:
A) My shots in an edit won't last longer than 3 seconds
B) So the audience won't care
C) I can dolly or jib the shot to add overall movement that would make the breathing look intentional
D) As we get into this, we start wanting the whole real deal, but remember, this is indie stuff; dunno about you, but 2 years ago I was only putzing around with a Canon GL1. So all of this is a Quantum Leap ahead.
Ditto - I think breathing is a DP issue. Almost no viewer is going to care IMO. If it really bugs you then it could be fixed in After Effects or Shake to look rock solid - theoretically. I haven't done it, but it doesn't seem too tough.
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Old February 10th, 2006, 07:34 PM   #47
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Steev,

Thanks for posting so much good stuff! The noise "controversy" dried up pretty quickly with the introduction of your footage and a few recent tests by Barry Green. What's the magic to getting such clean low light footage? The crushed blacks are sweeeet! Did you do a little color work in post or is this all straight from camera? Please share your magic settings.
Wow, I'm just amazed by this camera. I've been putting it off, but time to whip out the visa card. Keep up the good work!

Edit: Re-read beginning of thread and think I found my answer. I was specifically wondering about settings/post for the skater dolly shots. I really like that look.
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Old February 11th, 2006, 10:39 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Damon Botsford
Steev,

Thanks for posting so much good stuff! The noise "controversy" dried up pretty quickly with the introduction of your footage and a few recent tests by Barry Green. What's the magic to getting such clean low light footage? The crushed blacks are sweeeet! Did you do a little color work in post or is this all straight from camera? Please share your magic settings.
Wow, I'm just amazed by this camera. I've been putting it off, but time to whip out the visa card. Keep up the good work!

Edit: Re-read beginning of thread and think I found my answer. I was specifically wondering about settings/post for the skater dolly shots. I really like that look.
Thanks Damon! All clips so far have been stock HVX200 with Cine Matrix and Gamma with all other settings at 0. On some, but not all, I've also done some tweaking with 3-way Color Correction in Final Cut Pro. I haven't used Magic Bullet or DFT Tools yet. Things should get pretty fun in After Effects too. :D

Note added: The settings for the Skater Dolly shots were as decribed above, and lighting for the bottle shots was just a single Arri 650 light with a purple gel. The animal shots was using a single 200 watt Lowel Pro-Light.
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Old February 11th, 2006, 08:24 PM   #49
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More test stuff - http://www.holyzoo.com/content/hvx20...5mm_Test12.mov

Workin on an abstract music video now to one of the Astronaut Lunchbox tunes. ;)
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Old February 13th, 2006, 08:18 AM   #50
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Steev,

The results you are getting are just staggeringly good. I'm very impressed.
So, my goal is to mimic your setup. I've been in touch with Dan, but I was wondering if you could answer some questions before I order the device from him?

Will attaching the device to the the camera require me to modify the camera in any way (such as drilling holes etc.)?

You mentioned something about having a friend custom mill some parts to make the device work. What are the details concering this?

As I understand it, the device allows you to mount any Nikon lens (although only for still film cameras, not digital), does it also work with other brands? And what about autofocus lenses?

Will shooting with the stock lens work with the device attached, or do you need to remove it first?

You mentioned that an empty filter ring provided the right spacing between the camera and the device. What kind of ring do you use?


Sorry about the barrage of questions, but your results have got me firing on all cylinders.

Very grateful for any answers you can provide.

Thank you!

- Jens
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Old February 13th, 2006, 01:13 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Matthies
Will attaching the device to the the camera require me to modify the camera in any way (such as drilling holes etc.)?
Thanks for the positive words Jens. :)

Attaching the device requires no camera modification at all, besides taking off the HVX200 lens hood.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Matthies
You mentioned something about having a friend custom mill some parts to make the device work. What are the details concering this?
You should ask Dan to do this for you. I sent him a closeup photo of the part I had modified.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Matthies
As I understand it, the device allows you to mount any Nikon lens (although only for still film cameras, not digital), does it also work with other brands? And what about autofocus lenses?
I'd say the lenses you want are Nikon primes, and not the ones specifically for Digital cameras, since those often don't allow manual aperture adjustment. Autofocus lenses can work. Consult Dan about which ones will work and which won't, but in general, any Nikon prime will work. The faster the better 1.2, 1.4, 1.8, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Matthies
Will shooting with the stock lens work with the device attached, or do you need to remove it first?
If I understand your question correctly, you're asking about how to shoot with the stock lens. To do so, you have to take the MPIC off. So if you were shooting some shots with the MPIC, and some with the stock lens, this will require quick removal of the device. It doesn't take very long to do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Matthies
You mentioned that an empty filter ring provided the right spacing between the camera and the device. What kind of ring do you use?
I suggest consulting Dan about what his plans are for what's required for MPIC use with the HVX200. I had to put a bunch of empty filter rings to get the right distance. As stated previously, the MPIC works with the DVX100 perfectly with 1 empty UV Tiffen filter ring added. This yields an image free of vignetting or distortion. The HVX200 is requiring about 2 inches of space, so that's a bunch of empty filters, and at that point, the image is not totally free of vignetting or distortion. What I'm doing is cropping in post *if* the vignetting and distortion is distracting. Sometimes it's not a big deal, as you can see in a lot of the footage I've posted. Some footage I've cropped to eliminate these potential artifacts.

My testing shows that the image even after cropping (if needed) is better than the image from the DVX100. As of my last communication with Dan, he doesn't have a HVX200 available for testing, as a lot of people don't have a HVX200 yet either. As soon as he can do some testing, I'm assuming he'll have an easy solution.

As a final note, take a look at all the footage you've seen posted here, and determine if that's along the lines of what you're going for. A lot is possible with this set up, and the shallow depth of field presents some dramatic shots. I would recommend using both the stock HVX200 lens, and the MPIC selectively, since the image on any camera will be sharpest with the stock lens vs a 35mm imager. Additionally, shallow depth of field is often simply a pain and hassle to work with. I've been also enjoying using the stock HVX200 without any 35mm imager. Then use the MPIC for more dramatic closeups, etc. Both stock and 35mm footage should cut together nicely.
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Old February 13th, 2006, 03:15 PM   #52
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Thank you for the prompt and informative reply Steev!

Quite frankly I'm not the camera nerd I want to be. I'm fairly comfortable with compositions, post and other aspects of filmmaking (directing and drama), but a good camera operator I am not (yet). Your answers are a big help in broadening my understanding.
I do however know that a setup similar to yours is what I have been craving for years. So my plan now is to aquire the proper gear and practice, practice, practice.

A couple more questions popped up.

What are the reasons you opted for the MPIC as opposed to one of the significantly cheaper options, such as the M2?

Are there anamorphic lenses that will work with the MPIC? I haven't found any yet, but I might be looking in the wrong place.

Thank you so much for taking the time.

- Jens
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Old February 13th, 2006, 04:36 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Matthies
What are the reasons you opted for the MPIC as opposed to one of the significantly cheaper options, such as the M2?
I chose the MPIC since it's a complete system with gears and follow focus. Red Rock seems to be about ready to offer a complete system as well. I was also feeling that the MPIC most closely resembles an evolution of the adapter that I built myself. So I was wanting what I got in my U35A but fully developed and realized. I may be getting a hold of the M2 at some point as well, to compare, but also to have two 35mm systems :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jens Matthies
Are there anamorphic lenses that will work with the MPIC? I haven't found any yet, but I might be looking in the wrong place.
I have no idea where you'd look for this. If I was wanting to do super wide screen, I'd just use the HVX200 safe guides, and crop in post.
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Old February 13th, 2006, 04:54 PM   #54
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I see. Will the MPIC also flip the image upside down, or is that unique to the M2? Are there any other 35mm Imagers that you considered before settling on the MPIC?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Steev Dinkins
I have no idea where you'd look for this. If I was wanting to do super wide screen, I'd just use the HVX200 safe guides, and crop in post.
Ah, but even assuming one can live with the resolution loss, what about those cool looking lens flares? ;-)

All the best,

- Jens
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Old February 13th, 2006, 05:11 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by Jens Matthies
I see. Will the MPIC also flip the image upside down, or is that unique to the M2? Are there any other 35mm Imagers that you considered before settling on the MPIC?
All of these imagers flip the image upside down and reversed horizontally. There are only two that dont. The Letus35 and the P+S Technik mini35.
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Old February 13th, 2006, 11:41 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by Jens Matthies
Are there anamorphic lenses that will work with the MPIC? I haven't found any yet, but I might be looking in the wrong place.
Try this: http://www.widescreen-centre.co.uk/p...CREEN_lens.pdf

If it works to a 4:3 CCD, to a 16:9 CCD, the anamorphic effect will be closer to 2.35:1 ratio or isn't it so?
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Old February 17th, 2006, 01:37 AM   #57
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Steev,


Some awesome footage there man.. Ya like the Stephen King of HVX proliferation.. You have been busy and we are greatful for your efforts. Now if only this thing was as popular as the canon or the JVC... I'd be able to walk in and get one today..... Bah all.. the Noise is too bad, the 1080 sucks.. Everyone run away.. Run away... Meanwhile, I'll just sneak right in there.

Why did I turn down my first HVX. I would have had it on the 28th, but smucky me.. I had to hold out for a sweeter deal. FOILED again.


Thanks for allowing me to see what i'm waiting for.. and saving for.. and crap, I'll have to get a 35mm adapter now too. Keeping up with the Steev's... CONGRATS bro.. looks awesome
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Old February 17th, 2006, 05:03 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harikrishnan Ponnurangam
This is Crazzzzzzzzzzzzy!!! I like the bottle and dolly.
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Harikrishnan Ponnurangam
I wasn't able to view the DvcproHD clip. Quicktime tells to download some plugins. What did you use to create the clip?
You need Final Cut Pro to view those clips.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Harikrishnan Ponnurangam
How many P2 cards did you buy?
Can you send me the workflow for DVCprohd all the way to finish and blowing it up in film. How are you reading the P2's directly from camera or are you using card readers?
I bought 2 8GB cards. I'm using the camera to transfer the video into Final Cut Pro via FireWire. There's a wealth of information on workflow on DVinfo and DVXuser, so I suggest taking advantage of all the posting that's been going on here for several months. Regarding workflow to film distribution, I have no idea whatsoever. There are threads on DVXuser that cover this. The extent of my distribution would be Web, DVD, HD-DVD/Blu-Ray, or Tape-based masters for TV broadcast. I highly doubt my material getting film release. ;)
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Old February 20th, 2006, 02:03 PM   #59
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hvx

Steve,

I guess not only the technology but also the craftmanship plays an important role. I always liked your work and the way you handle the camera. Your camerwork is always unique.

Did you use special lighting on the lake scene test. I hope not. Identify me the clips that you used extra lighting i want to see it. I think you used some lighting on dolly&bottle clip.

Hari
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Old March 26th, 2006, 12:14 PM   #60
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Amazed at Steev's Cinematography.

Steev, you do great work. You have a tremendous eye for cinematography. Let me get this right: you've got the HVX, Dan's adapter, and then do you just put a variety of Nikon photo lenses onto Dan's adapter to get that amazing film look? I've researched the forum as much as possible to put together the pieces. Forgive me if any of this is repetitive...but if you could just give me the steps of what I need from the time I remove the matte box off the HVX...and so on...man, I would be forever grateful to you. Thanks endlessly for sharing your clips, your knowledge and wonderful talents. Jumping ahead, if I can get the 35mm adapter from Dan, what is a good standard medium sized Nikon lens to go with? For instance, what lens did you use on the nice DOF shot you took with a man and a little girl sitting on a grassy bank? Or the shot where there is a lake in the background and a large tree in the foreground? Dude, any help is so appreciated. Also, let me ask this: where did you get your HVX from? Should I go with B&H? I notice they're accepting orders, but don't have any in stock. How long do you think I'd have to wait? Or, is there another place to get them that is respected...what would your recommendation be? Thanks much. You do, indeed, kick ass. Keep it up!
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