Casio EX-F1 Review -- part 5
 

1) You can NOT set a slow shutter-speed (1/60th sec.) which means a strobing on fast action. There is a BS mode that promises a "low"shutter-speed. And, indeed the displayed STILL speed is a near perfect 1/40th second. This mode strobes like crazy! Looking at the picture, you can see there is NO motion blur at all from a fast moving car.

The other pix shows lots of motion blur and the video does not strobe as much. Yet this was shot in non-BS mode. The STILL shutter-speed was 1/320th second.

Clearly something very odd it going on. I continue to suspect the BS modes do not determine the movie AE operation.

2) The biggest problem with all these handholds is they are almost impossible to hold steady. (At least I can't.) One solution I've found is the Stabilize Video Filter in Avid Media Composer. It can track up to 4 points. (I use 2.) Like magic, the shot looks like I used tripod.

Also, avoid zooming and avoid any BS modes that turn-off EIS.

PS: an Avid Media Composer works perfectly with the Casio. The camera's SD card works as a source of QT files that are imported as 720p30 DNxHD files which work perfectly in a 720p30 Project.

Of course, 1080i60 files are handled the same way and work in 1080i60 Projects.

"The other pix shows lots of motion blur and the video does not strobe as much. Yet this was shot in non-BS mode. The STILL shutter-speed was 1/320th second. Clearly something very odd it going on."

PUZZLE SOLVED!

HD Movie Mode uses it's own Programmed AE function that attempts to meet two goals: (1) keep ISO as low as possible over most lighting situations; (2) keep the iris as open as possible to maximize image quality.

As illumination (EV) increases the camera behaves as follows: The left column shows the way AE is controlled for still photographs. The right column shows how gain (ISO) and iris are controlled to keep shutter-speed in the range of 1/30th to 1/100th second. As illumination reaches certain levels, ND filters are automatically engaged.


EV09 100 f/2.8 1/60th == 800 f/2.7 1/30th

EV10 100 f/2.8 1/125th == 400 f/2.7 1/50th

ADD 2-STOP ND FILTER

EV11 100 f/2.8 1/250th >> -2EV=EV09 == 200 f/2.7 1/50th

EV12 100 f/2.8 1/500th >> -2EV=EV10 == 250 f/3.0 1/100th <<<<<

EV13 100 f/4 1/500th >> -2EV=EV11 == 160 f/6.8 1/50th

EV14 100 f/5.6 1/500th >> -2EV=EV12 == 200 f/8.4 1/50th <<<<

EV15 100 f/8 1/500th >> -2EV=EV13 == 320 f/8.4 1/100th <<<<<

ADD 1-STOP ND FILTER

EV16 100 f/11 1/500th >> -3EV=EV13 == 160 f/8.4 1/100th <<<<<

EV17 100 f/16 1/500th >> -3EV=EV14 == 100 f/13.4 1/100th <<<<<

EV18 100 f/22 1/500th >> -3EV=EV15 == 100 f/17 1/100th


An 3-stop ND filter should drop EV17/EV16 (very bright sunlight) to EV14/EV13 bringing shutter-speed to about 1/50th second -- which is perfect for video.

An 2-stop ND filter should drop EV15 (bright sunlight) to EV13 bringing shutter-speed to about 1/50th second -- which is also perfect for video.

HOWEVER, all too often, when pressing the shutter-button half-way to set Focus and Exposure and then pressing the AF/AE LOCK button, the movie will be recorded at 100 f/2.7 to 3.0 1/500th. Outdoors in bright light you won't notice this exposure since it is reasonably accurate. The 1/500th shutter-speed will result in strobing. However, indoors, the video will be very dark. Under florescent lighting you'll see rolling bars. For some reason, although HD movie recording starts -- the movie AE Program is not being engaged.

If the AF/AE LOCK button is pressed and a movie recording is started, the movie AE Program IS engaged.

So, after power-up, press the AF/AE LOCK button twice (ON/OFF). From now on, press the shutter-button half-way to set Focus and Exposure and then press the AF/AE LOCK button to lock both. Now, the movie will be recorded using movie AE Program.

=========================

LV18 Bright reflection off a sunlit object, including reflections off sand and snow
LV17 White object in full sunlight
LV16 Light gray object or skin in full sunlight
LV15 Gray card in full sunlight
LV14 Typical light level for side-lit daylight shots in good afternoon light
LV13 Typical shadow cast in a daylight scene; cloudy bright days
LV12 California bright overcast
LV11
LV10 Dark, dreary overcast day in Boston, London or Paris; Well lit florescent room.
LV 9 Typical room lighting

Casio F1
 

Great Find, Steve, I will experiment with this.

What setting is your mode dial on? Also, what settings do you find most usefull for HD movie recording?

The default (red) mode. None of the BS modes do anything I need done.

I turn-off Digital Zoom and Face Detection.

I turn-on Continuous AF as it makes focus much faster. Then Dynamic Range = 1. See my other posting on settings.

EV vs. LV?
 

I'm confused by the EV versus LV thing. EV is illumination, what is LV? "HD Movie Mode uses it's own Programmed AE function". ? Does this mean that you cannot manually control iris or shutter speed in HD movie mode? Also, are there any major differences in how this would work in the F1 vs. the FH20?

Thanks ahead of time.

Hi to everybody, I'm new here ;)
I've recently purchased a EX-F1 and thís forum was the most usefull for me, because your detailed tests ;)
Thanks!

Sorry, LV = EV

You can limit the shutter-speed range which is typically what you want. You can adjust exposure as well as. Focus is manual or AF.

I would not go for the FH20. It is way too tiny!

I would be using it on a sturdy tripod or on a rail system, so the small size is not a problem. It's half the price, and the range of the lens is much more versatile, 35mm equivalent of 26mm-520mm. The main issue I can see is the lack of manual control work-arounds in HD video mode.

You do not NEED WORK AROUNDS. That's what Nikon and Canon users need. :)

You have 7.5 of the 8 possible MANUAL controls.

1) You have MANUAL WB via direct menu -- you do not need to use SETUP menu.

2) Full MANUAL focus using a wide rubber lens ring.

3) You have +/- 2 stops of exposure control -- which as much as you can safely do with digital video. This is a MANUAL dial.

4) Your shutter-speed will stay within 1/30 to 1/125th -- so this is the half. You can use ND filters to force shutter-speed lower.

5) MANUAL Black Stretch through Black Compress -- via setup menu.

6) MANUAL selection of 100IRE, 108IRE, and 115IRE peak-- via setup menu.

7) MANUAL Saturation -- via setup menu.

8) MANUAL Sharpness -- via setup menu.


I'm not really sure what's missing.

PS: You can use the peak IRE if you view via HDMI. Seems like the output will pass up to 255 YUV. For some NLE's (those that use RGB) you need to keep peak to 100IRE because that YUV value (235) gets converted to RGB 255. Other NLE's are fine with 108IRE which is legal.

First, great info here about the film part of the camera.
Steve, your insights have made me go a buy an EX-F1
and I'm very pleased with it.

Thank you ever so much!

In about two weeks I'll be shooting with a green screen for the first
time. It will be interesting to see what the results will be.
I will shoot some video for a band for their new website.
(Animations of the band members)
I'll try to get both 720p30 video and high speed footage.

Great news. I haven't yet tried the ability to use the Focus ring to switch/slide to and from 300fps. This could be a really interesting FX.

Also with the .56" CMOS chip -- getting minimum DOF should be EZ. And, the focus ring may allow rack focus tricks.

I think I'll be LEARNING for months.

Please post your results.

6) MANUAL selection of 100IRE, 108IRE, and 115IRE peak-- via setup menu.

Steve, where is this in the setup menu and how do you use it?

100IRE = Normal Dynamic Range

108IE = 1 Dynamic Range

115IRE + 2 Dynamic Range

I use the set button instead, it feels like it's only an on/off switch anyway if you use the Focus ring. 30-300-30-300...

I'm speaking of the lack of manual control in the FH20, I was interested in it because of its lens, 26mm at wide, vs 36mm wide with the EXF1. and half the price. But I'm pretty sure the manual controls are not as easy(or even there) on the FH20