Marcus Marchesseault |
October 29th, 2007 03:07 AM |
If you want to get the look of no lighting hardware in the scene, you need to get it up high. The way that it is done that looks the most natural is a single daylight-balanced light way up high and behind the actors. This somewhat simulates moonlight which is daylight color. Putting the light behind and to the side of the actors keeps them mostly in shadow but creates a rim/accent light. To get the exposure up, you can put some practicals in the scene like lamps or flashlights. It helps if they are a lower color temperature from your "moon" light. You can also use a daylight-color huge soft fill on the camera side to bring up the "moon" light exposure. For your light up high, the best would be something like an HMI which is by nature daylight color and very bright for its power usage. Also, remember that you need 4x the watts for every time you double the distance. If you want to get the brightness of a 1K light on a 10' stand but you want to put your light 20' in the air, you need a 4K light. The rule of thumb for HMI or fluorescent lights is that they are about 4x as strong per watt than tungsten. If you want the brightness of a 5K tungsten, rent a 1.2K HMI and it should be fairly close. The 1.2K HMI will actually be brighter if you put full CTB in front of a 5K tungsten to get daylight color. CTB gel really eats light.
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