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Old March 27th, 2008, 06:41 AM   #1
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Dimmable CFLs

A ran across some smallish dimmable CFLs that where rated at 5000k, 24watts. I am working out how to put an array in a softbox set up, as they are only 1500 lumens. It might make for an interesting set up if you put 7 of them together with a dimmer.

The site I was looking at said that the bulbs need about 1-2 minutes of warm up time before proper dimming can be achieved. The site also mentioned issues with certain types of dimmers not working right, but they were referring to house hold dimmers.

I don't know how likely I am to go that route, but figured I throw it out there for anyone interested.
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Old March 27th, 2008, 11:32 AM   #2
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I've heard that dimming CFL's is not a great idea: even if you find the proper dimmer and bulbs, there's no guarantee that the color temp will stay constant. Perhaps that has changed with the newer bulbs, IDK.

Why not put banks of two on switches as well one sigle bulb on its own switch? That would allow you to have one all the way up to seven bulbs on or off in one bulb increments. Wesctott's Spiderlite TD5 does exactly that with five bulbs and it works wonderfully.
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Old March 27th, 2008, 12:22 PM   #3
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Dimmable CFLs

Quote:
Originally Posted by Samuel Hinterlang View Post
A ran across some smallish dimmable CFLs that where rated at 5000k, 24watts. I am working out how to put an array in a softbox set up, as they are only 1500 lumens. It might make for an interesting set up if you put 7 of them together with a dimmer.
.


I've thought of the same thing. I've ran across a DVD called "Light IT Right".
He has a feature on how to create a softbox using CFLs. It's excellent.


[url]http://www.vasst.com/

Last edited by Jaime Espiritu; March 27th, 2008 at 12:22 PM. Reason: displays garbage screen
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Old March 27th, 2008, 09:44 PM   #4
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You won't like most of the dimmable CFLs out there as the CRI is usually very low in the 60 to 70s. The issue is that the ballast is so much more expensive that they need to sacrifice some other areas of the bulb to keep the costs down to where people will actually want to buy them. Its going to be a while before you'll have dimmable CFLs that are suitable for our work.

Until then you can get fixtures that use separate dimmable ballasts and bulbs to do the dimming. You will have color temperature shift on any dimmable fluorescent of any kind though once you dim past about 50%. Hope this helps.
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Old March 28th, 2008, 12:38 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Richard Andrewski View Post
You won't like most of the dimmable CFLs out there as the CRI is usually very low in the 60 to 70s. The issue is that the ballast is so much more expensive that they need to sacrifice some other areas of the bulb to keep the costs down to where people will actually want to buy them. Its going to be a while before you'll have dimmable CFLs that are suitable for our work.

Until then you can get fixtures that use separate dimmable ballasts and bulbs to do the dimming. You will have color temperature shift on any dimmable fluorescent of any kind though once you dim past about 50%. Hope this helps.
Those are the unknowns (for me) I was thinking would come up. I was going to use an array with switches as Peter mentioned. It's not dimming, but at least it's selectable.
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Old March 28th, 2008, 01:46 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Samuel Hinterlang View Post
Those are the unknowns (for me) I was thinking would come up. I was going to use an array with switches as Peter mentioned. It's not dimming, but at least it's selectable.
You can also control the light output by using neutral density gels. The most common ones are .3, .6 and .9. But in all honesty, the switches should be enough.

HTH.
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