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Old December 3rd, 2009, 12:50 PM   #46
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I'm sure this is a silly question, and sorry for going a bit off-topic here, but for the LED 256's I just ordered, I ordered the Sony L-Series adapter plate as the battery option. I'm assuming this is the battery I'm looking for (or it's 4400mAh cousin):

Sony | NP-F970 Info-Lithium Battery Pack | NPF970 | B&H Photo

And since I don't have any L-Series batteries, I'll need to get a charger for that as well. I have the EX1 which uses the BP-series batteries, and I'm assuming the charger for that isn't appropriate at all.

The battery is relatively inexpensive - compared to an AB or EX1 battery for example - any reason to use a third-party battery instead of Sony? Any recommendations from users of the LED 256 or other consumers of the L-Series battery that I might keep in mind?
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 12:52 PM   #47
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Ryan, we have the NP-F970 battery and charger at a more affordable price. The rating is higher too 6000mah.

NP-F970 Sony Compatible Rechargeable Battery | L.A. Color Shop
BC-V500 / BC-V615 Sony Compatible Battery Charger | L.A. Color Shop
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 05:29 PM   #48
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So much the better to get the 6 ah one from Taky. That would give you quite a bit more time.
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Old December 3rd, 2009, 10:03 PM   #49
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Thanks much, Richard and Taky. Looks like the way to go.
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Old December 4th, 2009, 03:47 PM   #50
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Ryan, package already shipped. Thanks for shopping with us.

Richard, thanks for the Richard Andrewski approval stamps .. hehe :)
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Old December 4th, 2009, 09:26 PM   #51
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Thanks for the quick turnaround Taky. Looking forward to these and the 256's...
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Old December 4th, 2009, 10:21 PM   #52
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Taky, would you choose the 5600K version (of the LED256) for wedding use? (I'm a Comer 1800 user).
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Old December 5th, 2009, 01:48 AM   #53
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5600K is day light balance. If you use it indoor, video will come up very cool/blue. People in the video will look like dead body. So you will need to have some sort of CTO gel to lower the color temperature to be used indoor.
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Old December 5th, 2009, 07:28 AM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Galen Rath View Post
Taky, would you choose the 5600K version (of the LED256) for wedding use? (I'm a Comer 1800 user).
Galen, I am going to answer here, because I think Taky might give the wrong answer, based on my personal experience with daylight balanced lights and Tungsen. BTW I also use the Comer 1800s as well.
I picked up the 5600k versions of the Coolight 600 and 256.
The reason is that the lights come with 3 sets of gels, one being a 3200k tungsten filter.
The 5600k light has stronger output than the 3200k anyway, so I would have rather had a daylight light that I can use in front of large windows for mixed indoor lighting shoots and if needed gel to 3200k.

5600k will give you more options. 3200k will limit you to shooting pretty much indoors only, and if you wanted to gel to daylight, you will lose more light output from a light that already has less throw than a 5600k led light.

This is why many shooters prefer daylight balanced lights. More options.

Oh an BTW, the lights work great indoors.
I have been using them for a couple months now and love them.
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Old December 5th, 2009, 07:58 PM   #55
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Given the discussion here around the Coollights 600 and 256, I have a few questions about LEDs from CL, specifically the 600.

1. Are the LED lights considered "soft" like a flo, or are they hard like a tungsten light? Meaning if I want them to be soft will I need to put a softbox in front of them like I would with an open-face or fresnel?

2. I know that overall throw is the primary difference between the 600 flood and spot, but is there a "general rule of thumb" as to which might be better for someone to have in their kit over the other (kind of like having your lights at 5600k is a better rule of thumb even if you need 3200k since you can balance down to 3200k more easily)? I can see the flood being more "broad" and thus being a more interesting general purpose light, but perhaps having the spot with a softbox is almost the same, such that unless you have one of each you might as well just get the 600 in spot and a softbox for when you need it to disperse more broadly?

3. I have a 455 PMD from CL and love it - and was thinking of getting another. However, I'm wondering now if I wouldn't be better served getting the LED 600 instead. Can someone help me understand why I might use a flo vs. and LED and vice-versa? I imagine this might be related to question #1 above.

4. Michael, Richard, and others that understand the LED offerings from CL - other than the previously-mentioned use of fresnels to throw cookie patterns on the wall with the necessary softness that you can't get from essentially a multi-lighted panel like an LED, when would you see yourself needing a tungsten light kit instead of the LEDs? Basically I have a 3-light Arri 650W open-face kit that I'd love not to have to haul around to make sure that I have enough lighting for interviews, small narrative lighting, etc. Am I mistaken thinking that I can replace that kit entirely with something like my 455PMD (4-bank Coollights flo - with both 5600k and 2900k bulbs), 2x LED 256's, and say an LED 600 or two (yet to be purchased)? Where might I find myself unpleasantly surprised if I got rid of the Arri kit and went 100% flo and LED? I do still have 2 650W CL fresnel's so I won't be truly 100% tungsten-free, but you understand what I'm saying...


Thanks again for all the help! I can't imagine what I'd be doing with lighting and filmmaking without your guys' help on this board... :)
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Old December 5th, 2009, 10:45 PM   #56
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1). LEDs fall in between flos and tungsten / hmi fresnel type instruments in terms of hardness. Its a big source comprised of a bunch of miniature spotlights. Each spotlight puts out a hard light, but is too weak by itself to do much. Together they form a useful light but also one with a big surface area so it doesn't render cookies well but it is more hard and has more throw than a flo for sure.

2). Flood by itself isn't as soft and the flood or spot in the softbox, thats why we did that attachment. Regarding the comments on point 1 above, you have to soften up either a flood or a spot further if you like soft light.

3). They all have their place. You can't use a flo as easily in some places where power may be an issue like in a car, or a cave. LEDs are super efficient and can operate easily off of DC power without more help other than a battery. Flos may be better and more economical for use in a studio for example for lighting a cyc. LEDs would be horribly expensive for lighting a large cyc. So they both have their uses and strong points as well as points for improvement.

4). Hard to say. You have some people out there that love tungsten and won't give it up for various reasons. That type of person maybe wouldn't like fluorescent or LEDs either. You already have our CL-455PMD and you like the results so you don't seem to fall in that category. I'd say that if you like the flo, but there are times it seems too big or it just doesn't work as well (man on the street interview, etc.) then you'd love the LEDs for where they are strong. I'll try to think of other things and repost later.
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Old December 5th, 2009, 11:55 PM   #57
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Thanks for the response, Richard. Helpful as always. A couple of follow-ups:

2. So for a hair/accent light a spot would be a better choice, but for a key light the flood might be the one to look for? Any reason that the spot with a softbox wouldn't make as decent a key light vs. a flood with the softbox? I noticed also on your site that you only have an option for the LED 600 5600k in spot configuration - are you currently out of the flood 5600k?

3. Noted - this makes sense, thanks for the clarification.
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Old December 6th, 2009, 06:27 AM   #58
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2). Yes the spots are probably better hair lights although since the floods are still pretty hard, they can work as well. I generally recommend spots for use with the softbox because they're more powerful and can provide more light to make it through the diffusion. The floods will work too but are a bit weaker out of the softbox. So the softbox and a spot are a great key. With the dimmer you can turn it down if its too powerful for some reason.

We are currently out of floods, they went quick but hopefully will have some more soon.
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Old December 6th, 2009, 09:42 AM   #59
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Richard - much thanks for the reply. There is a sale at the end o this relentless questioning, I promise. :)

So it sounds like the spot is the way to get especially as you're out of 5600k floods anyway.

I have two softboxes for your 650 fresnels - are they the same as the LED softboxes and if so, do you sell the speed ring attachment for the LED lights independently so I can just pick up one of those and use my existing softboxes?
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Old December 6th, 2009, 01:04 PM   #60
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Ryan the speed ring is built into the LED600s Softbox.
It's super easy to setup, as it simply unfolds and pops open, then you just slide it over the light with the supplied accessory holder.

I must say it's truly a very creative design.
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