Focus...manual or auto?
I know that manual focus is more accurate when used by experienced people, but I am wondering what my best options will be. I am shooting my sons H.S. Graduation. Besides the obvious stage, I will be shooting the walking to the stage. Is this best done with auto or is there a manual technique for this? Much learning to do so all help is appreciated.
p.s. I will be using the A1u on tripod with fluid head and the stealth varizoom. |
I use auto a lot with great results. If it looses focus I zoom out a little and zoom back in again and then the focus is on track again.
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Thanks...that is good to know. How about exposure etc.. |
I typically use most on auto but exposure I tend to click on the exposure button to get the default setting then click on it again and bring it down one notch.
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Auto-focus seems to go out of focus randomnly sometimes (or maybe when there's some motion). It's unreliable sometimes, but good most of the time.
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Auto focus will only serve you well if:
-Light levels are good (no low light) -Subject stays in the center of frame Personally, I don't use auto focus for anything-period. Some cameras this is hard to do on and it will limit you to locked down cameras and very little in frame-depth motion, but the pictures you can get will look heads and tails better with manual focus. Same with auto everything else. While the convenience of not having to use all the little dealies on your camera is nice. As the camera operator, your job is to control the light being captured to tape. The more you let the camera do, the less control you are exerting over your images. On the fully auto end, you really don't even have control over framing as you have to center everything to get the auto stuff to work. Bottom line, spend the time to learn the manual controls on your camera. You should be able to operate them without having to look for the controls. --Some cameras dont allow this kind of control, but anything > $500 should have manual control either tucked away in the menus or right out in the open for you to play with. |
My question is how to use manual focus if you are zooming in/out constantly and if you are moving the camera around to try to focus on things that are closer and farther from the camera.
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I agree you can't always rely on auto-focus, but that doesn't mean that you shouldn't use it as your default focus method, and be ready to jump in on the rare-ish occasions when the cam loses focus or 'picks' the wrong subject. |
What are you shooting that you have to zoom in/out all the time and move the camera? How long do you have to setup each shot, what is your inteded audience for the footage?
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There is no time to use push auto focus (which doesn't even work unless you have a Manfrotto Lanc controller) or flick it to manual as the out-of-focus moments happen so fast while shooting.
I use zooms many times when recording festivals or even on short films. Motion? That's in plenty of my shots where I'm following a subject as he's moving down hallways, opening doors and peeking in (or going in), going in and out of rooms, everything. I've experienced loss of focus on several occasions when doing this, and then it takes a few seconds and then it's back to focus. In fact, one time (not on the Sony camera, but on a Panasonic DVX-100), I was fixed on a tripod, at a fixed zoom setting, and the focus still suddenly went in and out of focus on its own. Not sure if this was because of a changing in stage lighting (although if so, it was very subtle as I couldn't see a change in lighting). In any case, I need to know how to use manual focus while zooming in and out and when there is motion and when there is a change of lighting (which there usually is if moving around). |
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Best way to maintain focus with panning and zooming from a stationary position? Thx |
Thanks, I will try that. But one thing, about the "fishing" for focus - I left it on full-auto always, never tried to flip to manual focus.
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I'm a big proponent of turning off all the auto bits and taking the time to learn to run your camera manually...it's a practice thing like anything else. at 20ft, you should be able to focus out and have everything from 20 ft to infinity in focus. Run some test on it by having someone walk away from the camera util they start to come into focus (might want to run through a largish tv for this). This will be the minimum focal distance...with the focus all the way out, you should focus from there to infinity, then just setup that far away from your minimum and the rest is all you, zooms, pans and everything. Learn to ride the focus manually with practice for faster, more reactive focussing, you'll eventually get a feel for it that will allow you to tweak the focus instinctively.
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I agree with the practice. We have a 52 inch HD tv. I planned on running some test runs with the wife and will definately do this. I agree that manual control, when used correctly, is by far the best. |
Maybe I'm just lazy, but I will often use the auto focus to get a good focus for the distance and then switch back to manual to make sure the camera won't 'decide' to focus on something else, especially when *my* focus is not in center frame...
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not lazy at all, that's a good practice...assuming there is enough light to get a reliable focus in the first place, but turning off the auto focus is the big part here, that will eliminate the fishing and allow you to use framings other than dead center.
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I really wish the A1 had the one push focus. Thanks |
Get the Manfrotto Lanc controller and you will have that function.
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I don't think the Stealth is a good controller at all, especially given it's "rocker" which isn't really a rocker, more like a lever.
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I guess the rocker is the push button thing or something. Either way...I have not had an issue with this controller and the price is very good. |
Another option, if you're going to be on a steady tripod, is to use the spot focus feature when you change your focal length and then lock your manual focus back. It's hard to use though if the subject is moving. I have had the same problems filming events. The real answer is that it just takes practice learning to use the manual focus. You can practice by setting up the tripod and composing the frame so you have many different focal lengths in the shot. Then practice focusing on different objects. After you get that you can try focusing on different objects while zooming. Also, if you are going to be filming at telephoto for most of the time, I would suggest turning the camera's steadyshot off. At full telephoto, I have noticed that it creates some ghosting and other strange effects.
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Yes, I will continue to slam the Varizoom Stealth as compared to other controllers, I don't feel it matches up at all. Compared to a typical rocker design, the Stealth's lever is in my opinion very clumsy. People who are really looking into good compact Lanc controllers should look at the Zoe 2005 and Manfrotto 521 Pro.
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The Manfrotto will allow you to push the auto focus from what I hear. For me it's easy enough to take an extra step to get focus, so I can't justify the expense of a Manfrotto...
And since I rarely zoom (seen too many bad home videos I guess), I know little about zooming rates. Also, since my main interest is filmmaking, and zoom is extremely rare in that domain... I'm useless there I'm afraid... |
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Cool.
It's an amazing camera no matter how you rig it. Hope it helps you get the beautiful shots and fun for days! |
Thanks... all the handy gadgets will not make up for a lack of practice though. I need to get out and shoot :-)
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Important not to get too obsessed with equipment. It's all useless unless you develop your skills to at least match the hardware. I find myself now often watching movies with 2 different perspectives : 1) just as a regular movie-goer : watch and enjoy it 2) watching from a technical perspective : camera angles, the cuts they use, focus techniques, lighting, sound, editing, the whole thing. you can for sure learn a lot about what works and what doesnt and try to use that in your own filming and understanding of it all. |
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Still wondering how I can shoot a HS graduation where I need to shoot the graduates in the seats, then walking down the isle and then the stage. All from one spot. Focus dilema with this. Has anyone used the transition mode (cannot remember official name) where you pre focus on 2 objects and you can click back and forth? |
It's called shot transition.
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You can either toggle between the two settings, or more usefully, have it transition to one setting when you start recording. I find the second more useful because the only way to toggle is via the touchscreen, which jiggles the camera. You can trigger recording via the remote. |
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I have found the A1 to not be well set up for manual focus. The focus ring runs a servo motor, so it is not direct mechanical focus with that positive "feel" that you get with a still camera lens. Also the image quality of both the viewfinder and the LCD screen is inadequate for Hi Def focusing IMO. The auto focus will do a good job of dead on focus. The problem is focus drift if the subject moves out of the center of the frame, or is small in the frame. Then the auto focus starts seeking another subject.
The best compromise I have arrived at is to autofocus on the subject (you may have to zoom in to get dead on) and then flick the switch to manual to hold the focus. You have to repeat the process for each shot, and if the subject is, for example moving towards you, it's not a practical solution. If you are shooting run n' gun realtime events it's a major pain. And the price is high. A little focus slip when seen on a Hi Def monitor is much, much more noticable than what we were used to with DV. Unfortunately, to do real, effective, manual focus you need a very high res viewfinder and a true mechanical focus ring-- none of which are you going to find in this price range |
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