With a still shot like this use slow shutter and leave gain at -3db you will get much better image.
Also WB does not look right for a good comparison.

Picture profile Recipe TC2
 

I've reworked my original profile based on some feedback and observations I received. It was suggested I use a CINE profile for gamma, reds have been dialed down, black level was raised, slightly. Overall, this is an improvement, I really like this profile, altho' my test was quick. I've posted a framegrab, so the comparisons are here:

factory setting(PP Off):
http://www.dvinfo.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=801&c=2

My TC1 profile:
http://www.dvinfo.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=802&c=2

My TC2 profile:
http://www.dvinfo.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=826&c=2

And the recipe is:
Matrix ...............on
Select................hisat
Level..................0
Phase.................-5
R-G...................75
R-B...................0
G-R...................-18
G-B...................-32
B-R...................-27
B-G...................13

Gamma Level..............-40
Gamma Select.............CINE1
Black..........................-12
Black Gamma..............0

Once again, please set your white balance before using. Let me have feedback on your use of the profile.

By the way, Chris, I tried to upload the .suf file and the server still won't let me.

What's the size of a typical .suf file in kilobytes?

Please send one to me via email so I can experiment with the uploader...

chris at dvinfo dot net

edit: rec'd -- thanks bill!

Test: .suf file upload...

Looks like it was successful, so this issue is now fixed.

Bill, thanks so much for the profile, it looks pretty good. Especially outside since I had a nice sunny day (finally!) Anyways keep em coming if you guys have time! You've helped me out so much!

Glad you like it, Jeremiah.

Can someone suggest a PP for shooting still life under halogen floods

Bill your second settings seem to give the best image I have seen so far!

After shooting yesterday with some full sun I agree Bill this is the best Picture Profile so far. Thank you for your time and sharing.

Sorry - this must have been discussed here before, but I only have my EX1 since yesterday so couldn't check at that time. So far we're having two ways of PPs delivery - settings filled up in the Excel spreadsheet, or the .suf file. While the first meethod is obvious to recreate, where in the directory structure does a .suf file go so that it can be loaded by the camera when the BPAV structure is deleted? Should I copy it to the root od my SxS card (i.e. above any existing BPAV directory)?

Just to make sure.

Piotr...

Page 106 of the US user's manual describes the location needed to store a PP file. Basically, go to MENU/OTHERS/CAMERA DATA, then select either STORE or RECALL. There will be no PP files written to your SxS card until the first time you execute a STORE command. After that is done the first time, you can view the file structure by inserting the SxS card in your laptop or Express34 card reader.

Note that the .suf file records every user command available for the camera, including things not in the PP files. So, when you use the file Chris posted, you'll get all my camera settings. The .suf file Chris posted for me has most of the other profiles posted by Paul Cronin on it, as well.

I should note, also, that if you're plugged into a firewire connector, the CAMERA DATA menu is greyed out and you can't access it. Simply unplug the firewire cable.
(By the way, never plug/unplug a firewire cable with the camera turned on)

If you only want to insert a single profile, study the .suf file in a text editor. It's in ASCII format, so, you can see where each PP starts and ends.

Best of luck.

Can't this become a sticky?

It already is.

As a memento for those disappointed with the EX1 out-of-the-box look, I am posting two grabs of the scenery that those of you who followed my last year's V1E measurebating may remember:

- the left one is completely unoptimized, PP off, bad WB (ATW on), no ND requiring the auto iris to go up to 16, thus inducing bad diffraction softening

- the right one is using Bill's PP2, with ND on and manual iris at 5.6 or so

Good job, Bill!

PS: I thought I own this update to you guys; even without a PP, engaging ND filter to allow the iris go down to 5.6 made my first setup look a little better, thanks to getting rid of diffraction softening (you need to see it in full res to appreciate it). Also, the picture with Bill's PP2 looks even more vivid, thanks to some change in lighting (later into the day, the sun lower). Comments welcome!

What I dont get is why Sony would set the cameras colour balance wrong? Unless there is a reason?

Mark, I guess it's not "wrong" - it's just that ATW is slow, so unless you have plenty of time for it do adopt (or set the WB manually using the white/gray cards), you'll be much better off by using the right presets...

PS: by "the right presets" I don't mean just the on of the PP currently in use, but also those assigned to the "Memory A / Memory B" of your WB hardware switch.