modify 24LE for RED
 

Anyone have any insight to getting a Steadicam Flyer 24LE to work with RED Epic/Scarlet setups? Mainly I'm talking about video feed and power.

So far I've gathered the Scarlet or EPIC do not have any composite out and some folks have used a Decimator product to do the conversion to SD. For that price, I'd rather put the money in an HD monitor capable of SDI in and just replace the composite video wire with proper SDI cable.

As for power my 24LE is IDX mount and own IDX batteries. What connector would I need to go from sled to Epic/Scarlet to power her up?

Thanks..

Re: modify 24LE for RED
 

as of now I am using outside hyperthin HDMI cable from Scarlet to the monitor, but waiting for Atomos S2H to be released and will run HDSDI cable through the post,
for the power from the flyer you'll need to make, or custom order your own cable, i made one for Pilot, but it can handle only very light setup - camera, lens and red touch, no battery or side handle, forget the matte box or anything else;
and on flyer I fly with the battery on camera, it makes it less matchboxy and adds some weight, which is good from one hand, but i'll probably make custom power cable for the flyer too, it adds up quickly :)

Re: modify 24LE for RED
 

thanks for your input.

any idea what lemo connector model it is, I don't have camera yet.. but I suppose I can look it up online. I use to solder circuit boards so making a cable is no problem for me.

what do you think about replacing the current composite video cable directly with one that can handle SDI? 75ohm cable as far as I know, or something like that.

What did you do about your LCD then, keep it SD or you planing to replace with something?

Yes it sure does add up quick!

Re: modify 24LE for RED
 

For the length that you are using, a composite cable will probably easily work with HD-SDI..

Re: modify 24LE for RED
 

I don't know, i vandalised XLR power cable from RED store, cut it in two halfs, made one, but if you search on reduser forum you'll find all kind of info about this including connector PN, but please download Scarlet/Epic user manual and take a look at the connector wiring diagram, must know information is there
Maybe Sander is right, but i already removed composite cabling from the post and will run one piece RJ179 both ends BNC terminated from scarlet to S2H, Aja has one available now, but it's kinda large, well, larger than Atomos, so i'll wait
first thing i did when i got my flyer I replaced original monitor with 7" lilliput, and since i need it just for framing HDMI signal does better than OK, SDI monitor is nice, and it's less one module in the chain, but it'll cost me $1K instead of $350 for Atomos S2H, and not all SDI monitors work with RED, i tried couple cheap ones made in China - they don't, as well as not all SDI to HDMI signal convertors, I also tried some Made in China - don't do it :)

Re: modify 24LE for RED
 

Yes for such a short length the existing cable might work, but I fear may damage SDI ports if not the right impedance..

Aren't there video lag delays with HDMI?

Re: modify 24LE for RED
 

not that i noticed,

Re: modify 24LE for RED
 

I don't know if Tiffen is doing any hanky panky with their wiring of the BNC--if it is a straight run of 75 ohm cable and the proper BNC's, it will pass SDI from top to bottom. I'd give them a quick call and enquire. Usually the signal gets split off via Lemos or Hiroses for composite video distribution and quick disconnect of posts etc. and this messes with the signal. Don't be worried about blowing anything up--either the signal will work or it won't.

I really recommend you guys look hard for daylight-viewable monitors when you do replacements. Even though the stock monitor is SD, it has anti-reflective coatings on it which will make it better in daylight than a stock HD monitor. I used to use a Flyer monitor on my little rig (ultimately replaced it with the Nebtek 1000 NIT when I sold the big rig...then subsequently sold all of THAT intact!)

Lower cost daylight viewable monitors are starting to appear. Marshall has their transflectives which aren't bad, but they also have a sub-$1K monitor at 800 nits, which is about twice as bright as most standard monitors (still not quite enough to really do the job).

Struggling to see the image in daylight is no fun at all. Remember, you can't use tunnel-style wraparound monitor shades as that will be too restrictive to your view. If you have someone who can at walk with you holding a solid to block the sun off the monitor, that's a help. But even under indirect or overcast light, you'll have a hard time seeing enough to frame properly.

HDMI does not present a noticeable delay.

Re: modify 24LE for RED
 

I doubt they are using 75ohm cable for composite, but if you know someone who can confirm it that would be great. I wouldn't want to damage any equipment, mine or anyone elses. :D

How do the monitors that ship with the flyer24 compare to the nits of the ones you're recommending?


Back to the power; anyone know where I can order the LEMO connector to go from sled to EPIC? I have a 3-pin lemo for the sled already. And any idea what's the right part number? I read some guy spent $60 in connectors trying to buy the right one. :S

Re: modify 24LE for RED
 

Thereotically you shouldn't have any problems with the video line, unless some demon is sneaking voltage across it that shouldn't be there. Honestly if anything is the culprit it's the RED camera. R1 used to blow up Decimators all the time by firing voltage down the SDI out, there was actually a menu option that did this. Never seen that before.

I've sent an email to a pal at Tiffen asking on your behalf, but he's out of office for a week. I'll let you know when I know.