Saturation

Sam Mendolia · March 6th, 2009, 08:56 AM

The Gossen lightmeter will be a good starting point, as I said.

The light meter is was useful, when you knew the speed of the film that was in your camera at the time, so as I don't know this for DV, it will be a visual result that I can see on the viewfinder, that gets me started, from what the lightmeter tells me, and then take it from there, as to what pleases me and what I feel will also please others, when they view the final images.

Any tips on using a still lightmeter for video would help.

Sam Mendolia · March 6th, 2009, 11:14 AM

Did a search on light meters, here.

Way to much info.....

my brain is saturated....

Tim Cee · March 6th, 2009, 06:57 PM

Sorry Sam, I have never used a meter for still or video imaging. I guess you could always use the in camera meter to get some sort of starting point if you had to use one.

Brendan Marnell · March 7th, 2009, 02:12 AM

Tim,

I made 4 serious attempts yesterday to welcome and take up your generous offer of help with "exposure" (incl. trying to start a new thread using your lengthy quote at 1.51a.m. on 6th) but each time I get thwarted ... not sure why, but I'll try again later today to start a new thread rather than muscle in on Sam's good question.

Tim Cee · March 7th, 2009, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan Marnell

Tim,

I made 4 serious attempts yesterday to welcome and take up your generous offer of help with "exposure" (incl. trying to start a new thread using your lengthy quote at 1.51a.m. on 6th) but each time I get thwarted ... not sure why, but I'll try again later today to start a new thread rather than muscle in on Sam's good question.

Hey Brendon, not sure what you mean by getting thwarted. I would be more than happy to help in any way I can. Maybe you can e mail me via my site? My appologies for the lengthy quote but felt it was neccessary since you did ask some intelligent questions and misunderstood what I was originally saying with regards to exposure and lighting. Try reaching me via email if that works better for you okay?
Tim

Brendan Marnell · March 7th, 2009, 09:24 AM

Tim,
My recurring problem yesterday was that DVInfo, after uploading 2 images (of raptor-flight by me) for attachment to my post, refused on 4 separate attempts to close the upload window so that I could submit my reply to your post. The image files were very small & well within all terms allowed for jpegs so I can't figure out why I failed. Not to worry I'll try again later or take up your email offer.

Tim Cee · March 7th, 2009, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brendan Marnell

Tim,
My recurring problem yesterday was that DVInfo, after uploading 2 images (of raptor-flight by me) for attachment to my post, refused on 4 separate attempts to close the upload window so that I could submit my reply to your post. The image files were very small & well within all terms allowed for jpegs so I can't figure out why I failed. Not to worry I'll try again later or take up your email offer.

Just send it email, I think we have used enough valuable forum space on this issue.

Dale Guthormsen · March 7th, 2009, 09:30 PM

Using a light meter,

I posted this question numerous times and no one would really answer what the asa or din of my camera was.

Expose a picture using automatic, then change it to exactly as you like it,

Change the light meter readins so it is the same aperature and shutter speed, then look at the asa point and it will tell you what it is.

I have my camera set at a din of 20 I belive that is an asa 0f 75b or 80. this gives me exposures that a re very good and totally adjustable in post.

It is late and I will double check for you tomarrow after a festival I have to shoot.

the light meter is particular good if you arer using a black and white view finder like a fu 1000.

Sam Mendolia · March 11th, 2009, 03:13 PM

Thanks for the replys on the light meter.

I have search, and tested with my own equipment, but to no avail, as when I change the F-stop, the camera changes the shutter speed, and vise-versa.

So, as someone pointed out, earlier, adjust either, until I get the result I'm looking for, and tape.

Okay, with that put to bed, for me anyway, we can get back to the original topic.

Thanks.

Dale Guthormsen · March 11th, 2009, 06:05 PM

Sam,

what camera are you shooting with?

If you are shooting in amual as you should, then nothing should change!!!!

you can use the auto to get a look see, then loock at the xposure for an idea, then make the exposure as you prefer.

I generally like the exposure perfect, but if I lean any direction it is toward a little underexpose. then in post you can make simple corrections.

color correction in after affects and Vegas sem to be the best.

Setting up the camera presets to get the color and saturation colsest to ewhat you desire is the best start.

I still have adobe on my computer and use it, but the vegas program has sucked me in for a lot of reasons. the simplistic color correctio is a a huge asset.

Most important is to get it right to start,m right on the camera!!!!!!

I would never shoot a slr with the idea of fixing in post!!! but then I grew up with film.

Sam Mendolia · March 16th, 2009, 07:57 AM

I primarily shoot with my Optura, the original.

I have access to a GL2, work the office, as well.

Sam Mendolia · March 17th, 2009, 01:08 PM

It's quiet in here!

No problem Annie, I'm always on the lookout for maidens/damsels in distress.

I've been looking at some of the other forums to answer other questions, and alot of them come back to this topic, in a round about way.

Thanks to all of you, who have helped so far.

Dale thanks for your advice, not only here, but in the other forums as well.
I have Vegas as well, but have been intimidated by it's complex looking work area, to even begin looking at it,for my own purposes. But, I seem to be able to help staff at work with it, so I don't know what gives on that. I guess I am so used to using Premeire, I don't want to try something new/different, in software, unless I really, really have to.

I will start with what you all have done, and get it the best I can in the camera first, and most of you have mention underexposing, a little, is best.
I guess I can start in auto mode, check with the light meter, see what gives, and then switch to manual mode, and take it from there. I take it most of you keep notes on what you are doing, to be able to reproduce similar results the next time around.

I will have to attach a small external monitor for this, as I find the LCD on my Optura and the GL2, difficult to see properly, and the eye piece is okay- age is starting to show, and I will be needing new glasses, sooner than later.

thats my noise for now

Brendan Marnell · March 17th, 2009, 02:58 PM

Sam

Someone on this forum put me on to a handy thing called LCD Magnifier (150/170/2100 ODS-LCDM-00 )made by Century Optics (a Division of Schneider Optics, Van Nuys, CA91406)
which I have found effective on my GL2 (XM2) even in brightest light, handheld or otherwise.

Sam Mendolia · March 18th, 2009, 12:24 PM

Thanks for that Brendan.

I will have to see if I can find it here locally.

It does look familiar.

Sam Mendolia · March 18th, 2009, 12:49 PM

All the units are for flip out model LCD, and would work on the GL2, which I would have to borrow from work.

Unfortunately, my Optura is a flip up unit.
Maybe I will have another manufacturing project, and design one for this.

I did design a hood for it, last year, but never got around to building it, so, I guess I could try and add this feature, and if I cannot find one on the market, I may have to build this.

March 6th, 2009, 08:56 AM	#16
Sam Mendolia Major Player Join Date: May 2008 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 217	The Gossen lightmeter will be a good starting point, as I said. The light meter is was useful, when you knew the speed of the film that was in your camera at the time, so as I don't know this for DV, it will be a visual result that I can see on the viewfinder, that gets me started, from what the lightmeter tells me, and then take it from there, as to what pleases me and what I feel will also please others, when they view the final images. Any tips on using a still lightmeter for video would help. __________________ I was told I have no vision, but boy do I see great!

March 6th, 2009, 11:14 AM	#17
Sam Mendolia Major Player Join Date: May 2008 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 217	Did a search on light meters, here. Way to much info..... my brain is saturated.... __________________ I was told I have no vision, but boy do I see great!

March 6th, 2009, 06:57 PM	#18
Tim Cee Regular Crew Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Orange County, California Posts: 179	Sorry Sam, I have never used a meter for still or video imaging. I guess you could always use the in camera meter to get some sort of starting point if you had to use one. __________________ www.socalt.com

March 7th, 2009, 09:30 PM	#23
Dale Guthormsen Inner Circle Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Saskatchewan Posts: 3,048	Using a light meter, I posted this question numerous times and no one would really answer what the asa or din of my camera was. Expose a picture using automatic, then change it to exactly as you like it, Change the light meter readins so it is the same aperature and shutter speed, then look at the asa point and it will tell you what it is. I have my camera set at a din of 20 I belive that is an asa 0f 75b or 80. this gives me exposures that a re very good and totally adjustable in post. It is late and I will double check for you tomarrow after a festival I have to shoot. the light meter is particular good if you arer using a black and white view finder like a fu 1000. __________________ DATS ALL FOLKS Dale W. Guthormsen

March 11th, 2009, 03:13 PM	#24
Sam Mendolia Major Player Join Date: May 2008 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 217	Thanks for the replys on the light meter. I have search, and tested with my own equipment, but to no avail, as when I change the F-stop, the camera changes the shutter speed, and vise-versa. So, as someone pointed out, earlier, adjust either, until I get the result I'm looking for, and tape. Okay, with that put to bed, for me anyway, we can get back to the original topic. Thanks. __________________ I was told I have no vision, but boy do I see great!

March 7th, 2009, 02:12 AM	#19
Brendan Marnell Major Player Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Dublin, Ireland Posts: 938	Tim, I made 4 serious attempts yesterday to welcome and take up your generous offer of help with "exposure" (incl. trying to start a new thread using your lengthy quote at 1.51a.m. on 6th) but each time I get thwarted ... not sure why, but I'll try again later today to start a new thread rather than muscle in on Sam's good question.

March 7th, 2009, 09:24 AM	#21
Brendan Marnell Major Player Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Dublin, Ireland Posts: 938	Tim, My recurring problem yesterday was that DVInfo, after uploading 2 images (of raptor-flight by me) for attachment to my post, refused on 4 separate attempts to close the upload window so that I could submit my reply to your post. The image files were very small & well within all terms allowed for jpegs so I can't figure out why I failed. Not to worry I'll try again later or take up your email offer.

March 11th, 2009, 06:05 PM	#25
Dale Guthormsen Inner Circle Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Saskatchewan Posts: 3,048	Sam, what camera are you shooting with? If you are shooting in amual as you should, then nothing should change!!!! you can use the auto to get a look see, then loock at the xposure for an idea, then make the exposure as you prefer. I generally like the exposure perfect, but if I lean any direction it is toward a little underexpose. then in post you can make simple corrections. color correction in after affects and Vegas sem to be the best. Setting up the camera presets to get the color and saturation colsest to ewhat you desire is the best start. I still have adobe on my computer and use it, but the vegas program has sucked me in for a lot of reasons. the simplistic color correctio is a a huge asset. Most important is to get it right to start,m right on the camera!!!!!! I would never shoot a slr with the idea of fixing in post!!! but then I grew up with film. __________________ DATS ALL FOLKS Dale W. Guthormsen

March 16th, 2009, 07:57 AM	#26
Sam Mendolia Major Player Join Date: May 2008 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 217	I primarily shoot with my Optura, the original. I have access to a GL2, work the office, as well. __________________ I was told I have no vision, but boy do I see great!

March 17th, 2009, 01:08 PM	#27
Sam Mendolia Major Player Join Date: May 2008 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 217	It's quiet in here! No problem Annie, I'm always on the lookout for maidens/damsels in distress. I've been looking at some of the other forums to answer other questions, and alot of them come back to this topic, in a round about way. Thanks to all of you, who have helped so far. Dale thanks for your advice, not only here, but in the other forums as well. I have Vegas as well, but have been intimidated by it's complex looking work area, to even begin looking at it,for my own purposes. But, I seem to be able to help staff at work with it, so I don't know what gives on that. I guess I am so used to using Premeire, I don't want to try something new/different, in software, unless I really, really have to. I will start with what you all have done, and get it the best I can in the camera first, and most of you have mention underexposing, a little, is best. I guess I can start in auto mode, check with the light meter, see what gives, and then switch to manual mode, and take it from there. I take it most of you keep notes on what you are doing, to be able to reproduce similar results the next time around. I will have to attach a small external monitor for this, as I find the LCD on my Optura and the GL2, difficult to see properly, and the eye piece is okay- age is starting to show, and I will be needing new glasses, sooner than later. thats my noise for now __________________ I was told I have no vision, but boy do I see great!

March 17th, 2009, 02:58 PM	#28
Brendan Marnell Major Player Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Dublin, Ireland Posts: 938	Sam Someone on this forum put me on to a handy thing called LCD Magnifier (150/170/2100 ODS-LCDM-00 )made by Century Optics (a Division of Schneider Optics, Van Nuys, CA91406) which I have found effective on my GL2 (XM2) even in brightest light, handheld or otherwise.

March 18th, 2009, 12:24 PM	#29
Sam Mendolia Major Player Join Date: May 2008 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 217	Thanks for that Brendan. I will have to see if I can find it here locally. It does look familiar. __________________ I was told I have no vision, but boy do I see great!

March 18th, 2009, 12:49 PM	#30
Sam Mendolia Major Player Join Date: May 2008 Location: Toronto, Canada Posts: 217	All the units are for flip out model LCD, and would work on the GL2, which I would have to borrow from work. Unfortunately, my Optura is a flip up unit. Maybe I will have another manufacturing project, and design one for this. I did design a hood for it, last year, but never got around to building it, so, I guess I could try and add this feature, and if I cannot find one on the market, I may have to build this. __________________ I was told I have no vision, but boy do I see great!