Recommend me a microphone based off my needs
 

I'm going to be shooting a short film using the GR-HD1. I need a mic, an inexpensive one because this film isn't really a huge deal, that is good for voice audio. I'd like to just plug it directly into the camera, so if someone can give me a link also to a 1/8'' mini adapater I'd appreciate it because I'm horrible at finding stuff on the web.

If plugging it directly into the camera is not a good option then please post another alternative method that won't be a large expense. thanks.

HDR Wireless Microphone
 

Not a reply ,I'm afraid but I'm in the same boat.
I have an HDR-FX1 and am looking for a wireless Mic, have found stuff on the net for £15.00 (tie clip) ranging to a full Sennheiser kit for £400, i need help, I will be doing a lot of interviews, but mainly its sports stuff and the in built is ok for that.

Any info would be most welcome.

there's a ton of information already in this forum that should help you guys out.

mark,
basically, you should always consider running your audio off-camera first, as close to the sound source as possible. for a short film, i'm assuming you'll have a crew, or at the very least, someone on the set to help out. low budget, i would probably go with an xlr-to-mini cable of decent length, connecting the camera to an at897 short shotgun or better, mounted on a hand grip. you can find the at897 on ebay for around $200, $300 new. people on this board seem to like the at897 as a budget mic a lot. the cheapest handgrip i've seen is less than ten bucks, made by windtech... it doesn't look like it would give you any real shock protection, but it's cheap. here's a link:

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...goryNavigation

for less than $250 bucks, including cable, this setup should give you some decent audio. personally, i don't know if i would go with anything less on a short film project.

A less expensive alternative to the AT897 is the RODE Videomic. For $150, you get a mic and shock mount that attaches to an accessory shoe, tri/monopod, or mic stand. Also, you will be hard pressed to tell the difference in the audio. It will plug right into a 3.5mm mic jack so you don't need an adapter. The only down side is the cabling is unbalanced so you can't run a lengthy mic cable.

new
 

Using a XLR to mini adapter, will I loose any sound quality?

as connectors go, xlr's are way more more durable than the fragile 1/8" minijack but the sound is virtually the same. something to be concerned with using an xlr-to-mini converter cable is the audio signal's conversion from balanced (xlr) to unbalanced (minijack). if you're going this route, make sure the converter cable is short to minimize the chance of picking up interference. you can then connect another cable to the converter to get the cable run to the length you need it at.

Henry, that last sentence is a little confusing. The whole run will still be unbalanced, and subject to interference if it's much over 15 or 20 feet long, correct?

With the AT897 I'd use XLR cable from the mic to the camera position, then this adapter, which converts from balanced to unbalanced as well as from XLR to mini plug.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search

You can also get a balanced XLR run with the Rode using the the above adapter at the camera and a passive direct box like the following at the mic end:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search
The specifications listed are incorrect. It has two parallel 1/4" TS input jacks and one XLR output jack. This plug adapter would be needed also:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search

yeah. if you just use an xlr to mini adaptor. however, if you shell out the $30 or so for a transformer, everything before the transformer will be balanced, and you won't run into any impedance mismatching problems either. the device i have in mind is made by shure, and it's called something like the a95u, or something. (mine is currently buried in a box of junk in the room in which my girlfriend is sleeping.) b&h (and may others) sell them. that's what you want if you're on a low budg. just gaff-tape the barrel part of the transformer to something on your camera, so that there won't be any pull on your cam's mini jack if something weird happens.

with more budg, you want (in this order,) a beachteck box, or an actual mixer, like the sound devices mixpre.

whoops. forgive me. fred said what i'd meant to say. the device in question was the shure a96f. (but give me some credit for being fairly close going from memory.)

it'll really be worth your while to go with a mic with an xlr connection. you'll have far greater flexibility with mic placement and cable runs.

thanks for that fellas.

ok
 

Ok so I guess I'll go with the audio technica that you guys mentioned in this thread and just get an xlr to mini plug adapter.

Mark, not to confuse the issue, but since you began by asking for inexpensive, I'd have another look at what Guy Bruner said above. He owns both mics under discussion and has said here and elsewhere that the Rode sounds about as good. It's cheaper, and also more sensitive than the AT897.

As far as what he said about an unbalanced long run, you can get away with a 20 foot unbalanced cable in most environments. If that's not long enough you can make a balanced run the way I said above and still have $50-60 left over from the cost of the AT897.

The AT897 is a great mic when used with a preamp, but I've seen some people express disappointment over the the amount of volume they're able to get when they plug it directly into a cam.

the shure transformers are bi-directional, so you don't need a big ol direct box to convert the unbalanced video mic to balanced mic level signal. just get one of the shure transformers that is male on the xlr side. on the unbalaned side, you can either make it work with adaptors from radio suck, or do a little soldering and attach a female 1/8" stereo adaptor to the unbalanced high-impedance side of the xformer.

But just to be clear, you still need the other little ol transformer at the cam end. You also have to do stereo to mono correctly at the mic end or you could have cancellation at the cam end. The direct box and adaptor in my links take care of that, you get selectable attenuation and a ground lift switch at no extra charge, and it's really just a cute little thing too :>)

thanks- a little recap
 

Ok there's a ton of good info here, but let me recap just so I can get everything basically straight.The Rode mic sounds just as good as the audio technica mic so i should consider it due to price , and also because I can just plug it directly into my camera. If I want to be able to say, hook the mic onto a boom pole, then I need to plug the Shure A96F into the camera end using the Hosa Phone Male to Stereo Mini Female - Adapter, run my xlr cabling, and at the mic end, plug it into the Whirlwind EDB1 - Single Channel Economy Direct Box, and connect the mic to the EDB1 also using the Hosa Phone Male to Stereo Mini Female - Adapter. The total price comes to:

2x Hosa Phone Male to Stereo Mini Female - Adapter - (3.50 each) = $7
1x Shure A96F = $37
1x Whirlwind EDB1 - Single Channel Economy Direct Box = $30
Rode Videmic = $150

Total= $225

Is this a good setup for the money - or will I be dissapointed for not going w/ the audio technica ? Thanks so much guys for all your help- You've been a big help

Mark,
That's almost right. The one correction is partly my fault.

But before I get to that, as an alternative you might want to get this simple 25 foot cable:
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search
The length may be pushing it a bit for an unbalanced run. but when you're not shooting in an electrically noisey environment it will work fine, and couldn't be simpler. And it's only $7

The mistake I made was forgetting converting back to stereo at the camera end. You don't want a second stereo mini to phone adapter. You need this (sorry, couldn't find one at B&H):
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=274-378

And whether you use the long unbalanced cable or the XLR setup, I strongly recommend that you end with the following adapter plugging into the camera. It reduces the chances of damaging the cam's mini jack if you somehow accidentally yank the wire or something:
http://www.radioshack.com/product.as...t%5Fid=274-372

One last item for Radio Shack, you might need a short unbalanced cable of the same type as the 25 foot one to go from the mic to the direct box.

Oh, and one last last thing. Treat yourself to a roll of gaffer tape to secure wires against being tripped over and such. 1001 uses. If you're not familiar with it It's what duct tape would like to be when it grows up. Great stuff.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...ughType=search

Yes, you're going to like the sound, especially compared to the cam's built in mic. You're getting a good mic and getting it close to the source. In audio that's the ball game (except for doing what you can to deaden reflected sounds in the room, like hanging blankets if you need to).

so
 

so are you saying that instead of buying all of the other converters, that i could just use that $7 dollar cable to go from the mic straight into the camera -- granted I'm not working in areas with a lot of electronic interferance?

Yes. But I would get that Radio Shack right angle converter to help protect the camera's mini jack.

For the record I've never used the Rode shotgun, but I do have 2 NT1's in my sound studio. I also have 2 AKG414's and the Rode product is always fantastic. The NT1's i think I paid about 300.00 each and well the AGK about 1,500 each and the difference is not that discenable. I don't think you'll be disapointed. In the future you may want to move up, but by that time you'll have your own opinions of what sounds good to you.