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Bob, SGblade is one of the best adapters I have ever seen...
My relay in this setup, is in FF35, so its a bit longer... in S35 setup is 7 cm shorter... in the photos you see the components... there is a lens block which is German custom build for this aplication, the various mounts that have back focal distance for S35 or FF35, in the front of the lens there are various tubes for mounting various adapters... So when everything is aligned and the allen screws are tighten then the relay can hold an SGblade with a lens... no problem to that... ofcoarse its better for the camera to use a Z-riser and rods to support the weight... The relay is being build with 6000 series aluminum similar to what is used in F16's... the relay is like a tank... So its totally modular... its not a DIY relay... its a real product that I build to order in a thermally controlled CNC lathe with tolerances better than 2 microns... on the very same lathe that are being build parts of the Pratt & Whitney turbofan engines that's on F16's... And with all that effort we have a lower cost relay than anything else... That relay with SGblade in a Varicam in Filmrec mode at 0dbs with Rotorazor 3 gives a sensitivity of 400ASA at 180degrees shutter... so its the best system for low light cinematography... And its understood that my relay gives SGblade a myriad of other uses... |
I picked up a second hand Letus Extreme a month back and have been learning the adapter game recently.
Now after a month of use i've yet to get the back focus 100% accurate on the extreme and there is also some specs of dust inside the prism that are showing up on my footage occasionally. So i've decided to sell the Extreme (Not hard down here) and want to buy a new adapter, Im thinking either an Elite starter package or a SGBlade. Ill be using the adapter with both my EX1 and my HVX (original) and currently have the 50mm and 85mm zeiss primes with the nikon mount. Currently on the hunt for more glass. The Elite is more expensive however i know that the picture quality is great, and that the accessories you get with unit are good quality (rails etc) On the other hand it would be nice to have the spinning ground glass of the blade, the ability to stop down even more would be very handy - and the blade is also cheaper. However is the picture quality and edge to edge sharpness good enough with an EX1? something that has been brought up a number of times in this thread. Sorry its the same old questions. |
Joe.
You can upspec the Extreme to Elite by buying in the front tube module which is available separately. Your secondhand Extreme may or may not have the EX1 special achromat. When fitting up the new tube/Elite backfocus to the Extreme, whilte the front is off, you would be able to check for and spot off any specks on the groundglass or condenser element. The front face of the condenser is the likely resting place of a fixed speck. If it is on the rear face, then you have a more fraught task on your hands but not impossible. A speck which turns into a freckle when the motor is turned on will be on the groundglass. For the SGBlade, you need to make sure you specify Wayne's special achromat for that camera. Evangelos Is the Viper a three x CCD or single CCD camera? What is the cost of your FF35 relay lens? Is FF35 the same as Ultra35? I understand the Viper is a 2/3" size sensor measured corner-to-corner. Is this correct? |
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If you have an older Blade, you can purchase the new optics separately. |
drop it in ...
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Bob,
Yea i know about the upgrade to make your extreme an elite, and i am 100% sure the dust is inside the prism. I've cleaned all around the ground glass, and also behind the achromat. (which im pretty sure isnt an optimized one) However like i said in my first post, selling off the extreme isnt hard to do, so my issue isnt extreme vs elite, its elite vs SGBlade. Cheers for your help though. |
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