That is a tough one. I like and use online scans as well as what we have on the systems. The interesting thing, with all these new attacks some pick up on them quicker than others. In fact the new viruses and worms even attach themselves to antivirus programs on the system making them ineffective without your knowledge. I have found a few this way, (scanning online with different companies).

As for your W95 drive, the easiest way I know would be to install it into an external drive bay, USB or IEEE. You could then hot plug it into a system and scan it or even scan it online. When done, pop it out of the external bay and back in your system.

Not knowing if it is infected or even what variant of a virus or worm to look for, manual removal of a virus or worm is not an option. If you know you have a particular virus or worm, you can go to one of the antivirus software companies and look up the removal procedures.

To keep things on topic, I gutted a store display which had a cd player in a kiosk. Even though my first mini35 adapter is a static, I think I will also make a rotating disc type.

John. a furthur thanks for the info.

Today I took the music video DVD to a retailer to test it on their big projection screen before I submit to a local exhibition. I have the contrast and colours a bit too crashy for a television but on the big screen, the thing looks heaps better than I thought I had any right to expect, so AGUS35 footage with careful attention to focus will stand up in that exhibition environment.

FAQ mini35
 

new FAQ of mini35 in FRENCH wellcome to all "french" speaker

http://mini35.lickthetoad.org/

Okay... i know for a fact that this issue has been adressed, but it's so hard to look through the oodles of pages on this thread. Plus... the posts that I did see didn't really give the direct answer I need. Okay.. I have a consumer DV camcorder (Canon ZR-45 to be exact) which has excellent macro mode (it can focus on the dust particles on my UV filter... so it's min focusing distance must be less than a cm). When I built the Agus35 i still get some pretty major vintiging (sp?). I'm zoomed almost all the way (as far i can go without the focus going out) and by the time I get there I'm so zoomed in that free hand is impossible and my FOV is so small that it makes it extremely hard to shoot in tight spaces. My question is: is there anyway i can increase my FOV (I'm using a 50mm prime) and reduce the ventiging? I'm excited that I got the image, but I can't do anything with it because the FOV is so small. Thnx.

You can use a condenser lens. If you look through the last 10 pages on this topic, you'll see it disscussed. I'm pretty sure. I'm not sure which ones have been the most successful, that's why it's best to read these posts. I know the condenser lens, goes between the gg and your camera

Ideally, get a PCX lens (flat on one side, curved on the other) with a 50mm diameter and a 50mm focal length. This will make a *huge* difference in vignetting. Also, longer lenses suffer less from vignetting, but I'd think your 50mm should be fine with a condensor.

Other advantage of a 50mm lens is it can reportedly be mounted into a 52mm filter ring, which makes for a possible mounting solution... (I've only done it with a Static adapter, not sure how it would work in the rotating GG version).

Do you know where I can buy a condenser lens? (sorry if I sound like an idiot)

Surplus Shed is pretty good: http://www.surplusshed.com/ and of course, there's edmunds - great but expensive http://www.edmundoptics.com/

These are just off the top of my head - google for optics and PCX and you ought to find some other hits.

Matthew. Here follows what may be a silly question. If it is ignore at will.

What size is the image you are picking up off the groundglass?

Some of us are electing to go for the 4:3 35mm motion picture image frame which is 24mm x 18mm according to Brett Erskine's test chart. This image frame requires care with the groundglass texture when making it, to ensure it is fine and scratch-free.

Others of us are going for the 35mm still-camera image frame which is larger. This confers a furthur depth of field benefit at possible expense of a dark corners in the image and is a little more tolerant of coarsness and blemishes on the groundglass.

Whichever of the two or any size in between you choose, I suggest you draw your preferred target frame on a piece of paper, draw some dead straight lines across and up and down then shoot some test images. (ADDED CORRECTION TO THIS MESSAGE - THE TARGET FRAME I REFER TO REPLACES THE GROUNDGLASS DISK OR SCREEN. YOU DON'T TAKE A PICTURE OF THIS THROUGH THE WHOLE AGUS35, ONLY THE CAMCORDER PLUS CLOSE-UP LENS COMBINATION. SORRY TO BE CONFUSING).

Alternatively you can print Brett's test frame at its correct size and shoot that. This will provide a benchmark to work to. If you can extract an image frame and ask Chris to post it here, we can look at it and come up with something useful.

I have this condenser lens http://www.geocities.com/buhce5/cond.html, but if I was to fit it in an aldu, I would need another one to compensate, right?


Like this )( ?

Compensate for...?

Whats the focal length of that lens? It looks like it has a pretty sharp curve. I mention it because if the focal length is shorter than it\'s diameter your going to have spherical distortion problems. As I understand it the focal length should be at least as long as the diameter to give you a flat field thats distortion free.

-Brett

To compensate for any distortion that this lens may produce, I thought you had to have another one identical to it facing it. Perhaps I just read wrong. It\'s been a while between when I was reading about them on here, and actually gettig the items together. So I must apologise. This lens is 50dia and FL is 39mm.I guess this means problems

To be perfectly honest, I don\'t know anything about cameras.

So please don\'t try and hunt me down and slap me if this sounds stupid.

What if you ran the 35mm lens image through a two way mirror?

The image would be able to pass through the fixed GG like device hit another mirror and then reflect back on the two way glass fixing itself in a clear mirrored image, that the Camcorders CCD\'s could pick up.

Just a random idea.

Now it\'s time for you guys to tell me why that wouldn\'t be a good idea?

Oh wait, I think I know, something about the frosted glass/plastic that only allows enough light in to create an image, or something.

Oh well.

Trevor

I\'m not quite sure what you are getting at. However, aren\'t two way mirrors tinted?

Brett Erskine- I have found a place that\'ll make me a condenser to spec. So you\'re saying if I had a 50mmdia condenser, it\'s focal length would also have to be 50mm? does the back focal legnth, have to be 50mm also?

Just disregard whatever I say.

I should stick to script writing, my lack of knowledge on the subject of cameras could make you guys dummer from having heard my lame brained ideas.

I\'ll leave this up to the professionals.

Trevor