another test...

http://altoque.tv/35mmAdapter/kartfilm.mov

about the GG, i wonder about its weight... cause if it is too heavy it will force a lot the little engine.

Exactly. Without actually being projected onto the ground glass, you'll just be bending the light more, which will affect the DOF as if the camera was taking the picture itself. With the ground glass, it's more like your camera is taking a picture of a photograph, or of, say, a movie screen. The picture of the photo or movie screen will show the shallow DOF that the movie camera did. Your camera isn't actually getting real light that's passing through the 35mm lens, it's taking a picture of the image it's projecting, which is a completely different thing.

That's why you can get a shallow DOF on your DV camera using this even if you're zoomed in, with a small aperture, and your CCD is only 1/3"... the usual rules don't apply since you're taking a picture of a picture, not of actual things.

By the way, Agus... what sort of processing are you doing on that footage? It looks very dark, what are the settings you're using? And maybe it's just me, but I'm seeing a little vignetting on the edges... did you not zoom in like you said you were before? All in all though, that looks really good.

I was also just thinking that in a later version of "Angus35" it would be possible with maybe the use of mirrors to vertically flip the image before it got recorded onto the camera to take away from the hassle.

Jon Yurek,
Thank you. That answers my question. I guess the angle of the light changes when it hits the frosted glass.

Agus,
I do understand how it works. I have been looking into this for almost 2 years. I have not tried it yet because I lost everything to a fire some months ago before I could start. I never said that you could get away without the frosted glass only asking if you had tried and what you got. Jon's answer explains why that wouldn't work. You have the DOF and no grain but it also looks dark especially around the edges. Sorry if I got off topic but thought this thread might lead someone on another quest like earlier threads led you to this one.

Noah Posnick,
Stay tuned I am sure you will see other versions.

why are you still calling me angus ? it is Agus.. from Agustin , .. hehehe

Yeah. my comercial version will use a pentaprism to correct the image. but that will take long until it will be avaible, now you can try up the free version :)

About the vigenting Jon, in some scenes i use it as visual effect, :-) i dont see it very dark, could it be that maybe your screen brightness is too low ? (i have to admit, that while i was shooting, the adaptor move a little to the right, check the other side there is no vigneting, after a stupid kid came running and made my camera fall !!!!, that also scracted and bump my 50mm lens... damn, but i can ensure you that there is no vigneting when it is centered, i just didnt noticed.)


I tried to copy a mini35 demo video, which use motocross racers, this is not motocross actually, but you will get the idea, i use Magic bullet, and look suite, and RE smoothkit (to take out the staicases from the interlacing... my cheap TRV18 needs some help always)...

Chek the part where the guy fall, you will see that the other bikes coming in front are really blurred, and also the behind the crash the same happens, your attetion will be only with him, that is the real DOF meaning.

Agus35
 

great work Agus, the go-kart footage looks awesome, really good color.

Hi,

I made a phone call to a friend of mine that runs a panel beating shop. He said it's possible just to buy some 2mm or 3mm thick glass from a regular supplier (they'll cut it to size for you if you ask 'em nice) and then using a small and variable rate sandblaster that most panel shops have (course, medium and fine settings) you can create your own ground glass to your own specs. I haven't tried it yet to see which is the least 'grainy' result (I'm thinking 'fine') but it's a relatively inexpensive way to realise the ground glass portion of this little project.

Also, I think an 'inversion' lens whacked on the front of the slr lens may solve the shooting upside down problem. Cokin make a 'mirage' filter that inverts the bottom half of the photographed image to produce an...um, 'mirage'. I guess what is needed is a 'full version' of this kind of filter that simply inverts the image before it goes through the adapter. Does anyone know of this kind of filter?

cheers,

DW

Why invert the video, you can do it in post, shooting it... well is kinda of tricky, but once you get used to, is practically the same, myself, well i am used to now...

Hi,

yeah I was just looking for ways to NOT have to get used to shooting upside down! Obviously you have to be wary of how much light is being compromised - the more elements you put in front of the lens the more light you lose.

While I'm here; Agus you mentioned having a look at the mini-35 manual to see how this idea works - do you know where i can download this manual? On the Technik site there is more of a brochure - no schematics or cross sections - is there another manual that you can d/l?

Thanks for all your great work, it has alot of us very excited.

Best,

DW

Here
http://www.pstechnik.de/sheets/downl...l_rev_2002.pdf

Btw, i want to post some pics directly to the thread, can i use the [img ] command here ?

Agus,

I think you will probably need to get Chris' permission to attach...don't think posting pic directly into the thread is supported. Here's the attachment way:

The administrator may allow you to use the attachment feature of this board, which gives you the ability to attach files of certain types to your posts. This could be an image, a text document, a zip file etc. There will be a limit to the file size of any attachments you make, as the board should not be used as an extension of your hard disk!

To attach a file to a new post, simply click the [Browse] button at the bottom of the post composition page, and locate the file that you want to attach from your local hard drive.

Only certain types of files may be attached: these are the valid file extensions for files to be attached to this board: gif jpg png txt zip bmp jpeg.

After posting, the attachment will show up in the body of your message. To view the contents of the attachment (if it is not already displayed) simply click the filename link that appears next to the attachment icon .

I would just e-mail Chris.

Hey Agus,

I have a few questions (trying to build my own now! And I have a Sony TRV17! :-)

1. How exactly did you affix the end of the motor to the spinning CD? It seems difficult to center/stick to the CD... what did you use to do this?

2. What toy did you get the motor out of? Was it a dreamcast controller, coz if so, I have one of those lying around myself :-)

thanks!! I will take pictures of my Agus35 as well once I get it going...

paulb

hehehe you got the my little sister camera of my own.. the TRV18 and 17 are almost the same...

ok.. dont laugh, but i took a lego toy, and remove one pice that was the wheel, put it into another bigger lego piece (they are great, cause they are 100% centered) , and then make the cd to fit to that piece...

the toy was a Xmas ball that start throwing some fake snow... from there i took the switch and the batery holder as well.

let me post some pictures of it, so you can understand it more.

Some high quality images

http://altoque.tv/35mmAdapter/moto01.jpg
http://altoque.tv/35mmAdapter/moto02.jpg
http://altoque.tv/35mmAdapter/moto03.jpg
http://altoque.tv/35mmAdapter/moto04.jpg
http://altoque.tv/35mmAdapter/moto05.jpg

Yes please! If you could post a few more close-up shots of the Agus35, particularly the part where the motor is mounted to the case, where the motor is connected to the CD, etc.

thanks!
paulb