Server
 

I have to remove the footage from the server otherwise it's gone a blow out.

I try to find another way.

Hi,

firstly, like the Agus thread, this is all very exciting. I realise I'm coming in late here but one question; when the image hits the 'GG' or focal plane, is it still backwards and upside down ala the Agus35 or does the second lens re-orient the image so that the video camera photographs the scene correctly?

Thanks, and great work.

best,

DW

Alain: Thanks for posting those uncompressed frames! I am about to place an order for the aluminum oxide, as I really want to make one of these. Thanks!

I found 600 grit Al. Oxide here:

http://www.tedpella.com/material_html/grind.htm

1 pound for $13.00.

Also, here's the article where the timing is way off from Alain:

http://www.phototechmag.com/previous...kas/dokas.html

Perhaps we are looking for a different outcome? I'm sure it's as hard for others as it is for me to determine the 'look' of the finished glass. Does anyone know what ground glass is typically used for? Sorry, I'm new at this. Thanks!

Todd: Thanks! I'm checking that out page out now.

Todd
 

From the article
----------You can spend 10 minutes to make a ground glass similar to what you could purchase by using silicon carbide, or you can invest a bit more time using aluminum oxide and have a ground glass that has more desirable qualities. And, in a real emergency, you can create a substitute that will work until you replace your broken ground glass.------


This is to make a standard GG,what we need here is very much more smooter surface and that's it take's time.
Effectively I can get a gg it 15 min but it's far from what we need.

Alain

David
 

No still reverse,I am working on someting to reverse the image but on the viewfinder only, still have to reverse in post, but that's nothing.

Alain

before we get too far into asking tons of questions I'd like to, on behalf of everyone here, thank Alain for his hard work and efforts in answering all our questions.

Considering I'm using an XL1S certain elements of this need to be adapted but it's pretty damn exciting results and yes, having to flip the footage in post (and turning my on-set monitor upside down) isn't a big deal. Although I am wondering what my DP's reaction to this might be.

I second that Kevin. I have to say, in the almost ten years of gleaning information of various topics off newsgroups and bulletin boards from the web, the work done by this group on these converters does not have an equal. The work done by Agus, Alain and all others in a few short months is staggering.

I do think it would be important to come up with a step by step tutorial with pictures to build Alain's device. Over the next week or so, I'll put together a nice little article for it and post it to my website. But since I don't have my Aluminum Oxide yet, I won't be able to supply pictures. If someone is building one right now and wants to take pictures of it as they build, that would help a lot.

Kevin Burnfield
 

There is a easy way to rotate the image ,but it need's more element (expensive one)and it result im more lost of light.

Alain

Re: Kevin Burnfield
 

<<<-- Originally posted by Alain Dumais : There is a easy way to ratate the image ,but it need's more element (expensive one)and it result im more lost of light.
-->>>

I take you mean 'rotate' but I agree with you that it would cause a loss of light hitting the CCDs and that kind of defeats the purpose.... plus the expense and added technical knowhow which I doubt I possess.

I think there might be a way to play around with the eye-piece display and if not just pull it out (CAREFULLY!) and turn it upside down....

http://www.knightoptical.co.uk/acata...sdiffusers.htm

Any of these OK to use for the ground glass?

Stewart
 

Hard to say whitout having it in my hand .But all the surch I did here whit commercial GG haven't guive me what I am looking for.
Very very very smooth grain.

After all maybe I could start a doing GG my self .but it's gone a be
around $200. each

It's really easy to do, it's just a mather of patience.

Alain

Alain would you suggest using the 120 and 300 grades before using the 500 or do you think we could get away with using just the 500 for a few hours until we get the desired results.

The main reason I ask is because I've had problems finding any telescope shops here that carry aluminum oxide, and most of the stuff I've found online are like 600.

Thanks