John, here is the design I made:

http://www.mediachance.com/dvdlab/dof/index2.htm

so you can see what I am working with and give me some ideas how to mount the lens I need

Size
 

I would say something wide enough to cover the 24mm x 18mm image area that you're gonna be focusing on... I'd say any lens with a diameter of around 50 + would be fine. What's the radial measurement of a CD gg. I guess something a little bit smaller than that. In terms of Focal Length, people on the discussion boards have been saying that if you use a PCX with a focal length close to or exactly the same as the SLR lense you're using that's best (so if you've got a 50mm lens attached then you should get a PCX with a 50mmFL)... but I'm just using one of those EBAY macros you saw, and it works fine for correcting the hotspot. Of course you couldn't use one of those for your design since the filter ring wouldn't allow you to place the lense close enough to the GG.

As for how close... I guess as close as you can without the spinning CD touching it. Obviously if it starts touching it, it'll scratch the lens... a problem you don't have to worry about with the static version.

John

I will be using a 28-135 slr zoom...how can I get one for that?

how will the ring not allow me to get close enough to GG??

idea
 

How about a 4th board with a hole drilled exactly the size of the PCX you end up purchasing. That board should be able to be moved as close to the spinning CD as possible and then locked into place using additional nuts. It would probably be a tight squeeze, but you should be able to do it. The only things that would be keeping the lens from getting really really close would of course be the nuts themselves creating a space between the spinning CD and the board as well as the little CD spinner that does actually protrude a bit from the middle of the CD when it's attached. Maybe you could glue two or three smaller pieces of wood where the hole would be and then drill through all three, creating a tube that actually protrudes out a bit from the the board that the nuts hold in place. That woudl allow you to move that board back a bit and still get the lens right up close... it would give you a little more space to actually tighten the nuts and also allow you to get past the CD spinner protrusion. I could draw something up and post it if that doesn't make sense.

John

Ring
 

Cause I don't know about other macros, but those macros you saw on ebay are the one's I have... and I can say for sure that they're set in the ring about four millimeters down. So unless you filed down that ring or poped the lens (and I have no idea how you could... I've looked) that extra bit of metal will always keep the flat side away from your spinning model's GG. And in addition to that you won't be able to have the filter rig itself flush upagainst your gg so if you had to keep the linse in its filter, you probably wouldn't be able to get the flat side closer than 7mm or so... and I think that may be to far. In the static version, you can either just grind the flat side, or just take the glass out of a UV filter ring grind it and then place it flush upagainst the flat side or at worst a couple millimeters away.

John

ok I got it ,,,cool so it 's not like you need the lens AGINST the GG just as close as you can get it...I will make it work! thanks a million!

everything is on order...maybe I should sell the dvx100 and get the 100A?? would that be a much better cam to make this adaptor for?

without a question of a doubt
 

Not having to use diopters to focus on the GG will help with distortion as well as light loss. I have the 100 and I have to use those two macros, and to be honest it's a pain. But I've gotten it to work. There are other reasons to get your hands on a dvx100A. Colorbars, autofocus, better cinegamma, digital squeeze... no question it's a better camera.