I just say about the kit and price, because http://www.redrockmicro.com/home.html
is selling something that looks very professional, with a nice web site and many features.... for only about 500$, so at 250$ for an adapter made from recycled syringe you could get some hard time to make the difference while under 120$, you would get no competition. Or get higher and give the 35mm lens with the device (you can probably get some cheap asian or russian lens in big quantities for cheap)
Especially with emachine, the price of parts is dropping very low when ordered in quantity, so you could imagine to have all the parts done by them in aluminium.
And forget about square things in video , it is a world where everything is cylindrical. You can probably replace the square profile with a round tube.

Giroud

The essential of this design is lightweight. Aluminum parts won't work as good as plastic. There are more to the design but I don't show it yet. my design has dust proof. My unit will be the most compact and has professional look with all condensers in place, just attached and use it. It's light enough to mount on camera and use without the need of supporting rods. Thanks.

Quyen

I think that Quyen you should make two model my friend - a pro and a DIY, just like the m35. That way, you can maybe ship the unfinished model to people for around $99 and the pro finished model with better achromats/macro/condenser for a cool $200.00.
Just my 2 cents, but thanks for the design ideas!

Kits
 

Looks like more people want a kit from this design. The only thing that hard to make is the custom parts. Other than that, they can be boughtonline, at stores and machine shop ... Below is the part list:
1 58mm macro lens
1 http://www.surplusshed.com/pages/item/l3385.html
4 syringe parts
4 grommets
1 46mm-49mm UV filter or glass to dust proof the unit
1 GG from microscope slice some grinding powder.
1 pager motor
1 battery holder with switch
1 2.5" square x 3 inch aluminum tube
4 (or 5) custom parts
4 6-32 screws

Tools needed
Drill Press
size 1/8 or size 30 drill bit for 6-32 screws or different sizes for other screw sizes
size 23 drill bit for mounting syringe's rubber parts
size 15/64 drill bit for mounting grommets
size I drill bit for mounting pager
Soldering iron and lead to solder motor to battery holder
Glue gun with glue
Screw driver

I think that's enough for the list. Will update if the design need to be changed.

Quyen

i think we could find a solution to suppress the syringe legs and the plastic rings at the same time.
You just need to find a tube made of material like jelly.
Silicon rubber (the one you use to seal bathroom equipment) is the closest i can think of. it has a permanent deformation range between 20 and 30% .
You could simply make a mold for a 1/2 inch high tube that would be the interface between the two plates.
if the tube seems to tricky to build, 4 or 3 small blocks could be ok.

the next step will be replacing the motor by a coil around the tube and a magnet.

4th custom made
 

http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/insert1.ems
enjoy.

Quyen

What about using some strong springs instead of the syringe? That way it would take out alot of the vibrations. What do you think?

Tried that but won't work. Anybody? The main thing here is to keep the focusing screen at the same distance to the lens. I don't think springs can do that unless you have different set up, thanks.

Quyen

Here's a PDF of pictures
 

I just thought I would put together a pdf of the instructions and pictures for the adapter.

http://s62.yousendit.com/d.php?id=R4...03FS8OCVDSVSWK

Also just wondered what kind of magnifier your using to enlarge the image...

Nice work on the adapter...

Craig

The first page of the guide has the info of EF XL adapter, not the DOF adapter, thanks.

Quyen

Fixed PDF
 

OK I fixed the PDF... hope this helps...

http://s62.yousendit.com/d.php?id=R4...03FS8OCVDSVSWK

Just wondered also what GG are you using.

I've got some 1500 grit GG from thorolabs and might try and vibrate it...



Thanks

Are both links supposed to be the same? I downloaded the first one and it incorrectly describes the adapter as an XL EF adapter but the second, fixed link seems to be a copy of the first only it doesnt work because it has the ellipsis copied as well.

edit: nevermind its fine now

Same Links
 

Yes both should be the same..Meaning with a corrected version "non XL EF adapter" I did double check both links and even edited the message just to see if something messed up.. But from my machine both are working fine...

emachineshop files
 

Craig,

The PDF file looks good. I used the old link to download the new one. This PDF file will be better if we add the link to those emachineshop files. I just uploaded the new version of the Front.ems. There will be 4 files:
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/Front.ems
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/back.ems
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/GGPlane.ems
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/insert1.ems

Thanks.

Quyen

Quyen, you are a scholar and a gentleman! This is definitely above and beyond the indy spirit

Thanks. I do share most of the info but will keep some essential info on the commercial unit that I will be selling. Sorry, it's business. Hope you all can get enough info to make and enjoy the adapter, thanks.

Quyen

New Pdf
 

Here is the 8-3-05 4:00pm updated pdf... this link should be better.

http://bellaire.homestead.com/files/..._Adaptor_2.pdf

The last 2 steps
 

There are 2 more steps to complete the design.

1. Use the 4th custom made part (insert1.ems) and snap the surplusshed condenser in then place the flat surface against the GG. Make sure you space it out a little bit so the GG plane can move freely, then drill and use screws to secure it in place.

2. Use UV filter or clear glass cut to the size of the Front part and use glue to hold it in place so the unit can be dust / dirt free. Buy some kind of mount or take out from the old/broken camera to mount on the other side of the Front part to mount the lens.

Use air hose to blow away any dust inside the aluminum case, GG, Condensers ... and close the case, you now get a light, compact, professional looking yet low cost Depth Of Field adapter. Hope you can enjoy it as much as I do.

I have more than one design. This one is the best and if it's done correctly, it will have circular movement when the pager motor is on. Precision? not quite. This design doesn't require tight spec so it can be done with drill press (that's what I use). The most important thing that you keep the drill size the same as instructed, don't change the drill size the way you think to make it work better, it won't. If you don't have the correct drill size, go and buy one, don't settle for anything other than the best.

Use lightweight material for GG plane. Don't use metal, use some kind of light weight plastic.

For people thinking that you can get something else to replace the syringe parts, I would like to hear from you when you get it working. I wish you luck too. I hope my design will inspire some people of making better / cheaper adapter that people can use without hurting their pocket.

I have been working on this design for months. It's not the luck that I get it to work, no luck here. I have done a lot of research and spend a lot of money in this design. I will get it back eventually. I admire Dan and other for their hard works and sharing the info. Without them, this design can never be done. Thanks.

If making custom made parts is hard for you, I offer to sell 4 custom parts with no drilling for $65 shipped to you, I currently have FD and Nikon mount. If you use different lens' mount, let me know, I will make a mold for it.

Quyen

Quyen

Thank your for sharing the great resource, simply awsome!
You're making me completely into the vibration path!

Question about the vibration motor again
Have you ever done endurance test? Like switching on the adapter (motor vibration on) for an hour or two continuously? Or even 10 hour continuous?

Durability of the Vib Motor is my concern. Some people told me 'no problem' and the others saying 'tricky', so I'm a bit confused.

If this durability issue is cleared, I would definitely give it a try after my editing jog is done.

cheers

Akira

I have done some test but not that long. I think one or two hours a day, the motor can last for years. We suggest using 1.25v rechargable battery. We even tried with 3 volt and it runs fine. The motor is made for vibrating purpose and create very little noise, I think it doesn't wear very much. In this case, it carries no load at all except the off set weight. I have heard some people use this kind of motor to make stuffs and they even use gear and shaft. I don't know for sure how long it will last and how stable it is, just try and know. Beside that, my design is really easy to change the motor if it's bad, just 2 screws and it's up and running again. I have use this motor and convinced that it will last. If you are not sure, buy more than 1. 10 of them may cost $30 or less, so it's not a big problem that you have to think so hard.

Please give me some feedback about how this design benefit you or any suggestion to change in the design, it would help the people in this forum further. Thank you for all your opinions.

If this design benefits you, I ask you for a return favor. Tell others about this design so it can benefit them as well. Support me financially by buying my products would be very helpful for the community because I will have more money doing research and at his point you know that I do share. Thank you all very much and I enjoy doing this for you.

Quyen

Quiyen,
What is a '.ems' file?
Thanks,
Valeriu

.ems file is emachineshop.com file. Download the software and view the files. It has 3D option and it's really cool. You can view the part like you are holding it on your hand, hope this help, thanks.

Quyen

Thank you!
Just looked at older posts and found it. Great Job!

great work and i am interested i your device.

a couple of questions.

1. Is the image still inverted?

2. What can i get away with lens wise. I am trying to make something dirt cheap. I have a nikkor 1.8 50mm lens, which was like 38 bux. can i shoot a whole film on 50mm?

can i get another lens this fast this cheap and where? Otherwise its gonna cost em a grand just for lenses.

great work on this adapter IMO.

B.Sundry

Thank you for interested in this device. I will try to answer your questions to the best of my knowledge.

1. Yes, the image still inverted. We don't want to sacrify quality. You can get image correction by buying external LCD or any other method that suggested on this forum.

2. The purpose of this adapter is to get shallow depth of field. Other than that, you can use prime lens that come with your camera. Fast lens can give better result but this adapter will work with virtually any lens. I suggest you go and search for Canon FD lens 50mm 1.4 on ebay. Saw one today at $40, very good price.

Hope this helps, thanks.

Quyen

Correction
 

The syringe part is the 1cc that use for insulin, not .5cc like I said before, sorry.

Quyen

Video Test..
 

OK I tried it today and not to bad... For some reason my GG which is 1500 grit by tholabs looks a bit mudier then I would want.. anyway look in the corner "sky" for the grain

http://s62.yousendit.com/d.php?id=2G...K8A66CNIPMMFC4

latter

Hey Quyen,

Did you try keeping the rubber bits on the bottom of the syringe - the plunger for lack of a better word? They might stop the vibration even more from making its way down the unit.
Just a thought.

Leo,

I put the syringe part in same as the one in picture. The big part stay out of the hole.
http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/syringe.JPG

Craig

I didn't think that anyone can build one that fast, congratulation. Saw your video and it's not really circular motion and the circle is tight. You may check the rubber feet to see if it's too tight. How long are the white parts? When shooting outside I suggest you use AES and use shutter speed 125 or less. Good job, keep it up man.

Quyen

Ok, my design
 

Ok, my design is a lot diferent then yours. I was already in a build and already had all the parts for your design. I take allergy shots,and had an old pager. I am also shooting with a medium format lens and a magnifier on the lens side of the GG to enlarge the hot spot, BUT keeping the grain as small as I can. This means I shoot straight off the GG, 2 inch GG... Also the hotspot is much larger on the GG becasue the lens is 3 inches from the GG... That's the reason the the magnifier works.

camera gg magnifer medium format lens

Anyway as for your question, The pegs or syringe plungers are only 1 inch long. I can actually make these as long at they come orginally so that's my next step. The longer the plunger the more the movement they have....I'll have to work on that next week due to working on my house on the week ends... That's my thoughts,,,

Quyen,

Just wondering how many lenses you have, and are finding a 50mm limiting? WIll youradapter work for a nikon mount?

How much would you suggest i spend on a montore for framing, and lenses.

Also what cam r u shooting on?

B. Sundry

B. Sundry

I have several FD lenses. The reason I use 50mm 1.4 is to demonstrate shallow DOF. This adapter can virtually use any lens.

How much you would spend will depend on your budget and your applications. I cannot answer this question for you. I saw some post with 5" and 7" LCD monitor, that's would be great if you can buy 1.

Below is a video file that has split between aerial image and image on GG. The shot was taken indoor using fluorescent light.

http://www.nuocsong.com/nhatho/adapter/split.mpg

Thanks.

Quyen,

What do you do if you switch to a different type of lens? Different lenses have different focal length - do you adjust the syringes as required? Or do you make a few different setup of the device to accomodate?

Leo,

Just like a camera, when you attach another lens, it doesn't need to adjust anything. This thing has a camera like distance between the mount and GG. No adjustment needed, just plug and play, hope this helps, thanks.

Quyen

Ok, I am not really familiar with all optics, but I have three different lenses with different bayonette sizes and all different focal lenghts - so maybe we are talking about different things?

The focal length is the length from the focus plane (GG) to the end of the lens. It changes, but the distance between the mount and the GG does not.

Leo,

After doing reseach, I found that FD lenses are the cheapest yet have quality among Brand name lenses. the 50mm 1.4 will cost under $50 include shipping on ebay. If you plan to build/buy this unit, I think you better off settle for 1 lens mount. FD is the best in my opinion. Nikon is good but price is a little higher. EF lenses are good but has very limited control on apature when using manually. I can do different mounts but 1 unit will have only 1 mount to go with it either Nikon or FD. Hope this help, thanks.

Quyen

I think what Quyen means is that when you mount a different lens *of the same mounting style*, nothing changes.

If you were to mount a different lens of a different mounting flange style, by revising your adapter, then you'd need to move the GG or focusing screen.

This is because, the "focal length" - a better term is "registration depth" or "registration distance" - is measured from the lens mounting flange to the film plane. In our case, the film plane is replaced by ground glass or focusing screen, etc.

For an FD (and FL, etc) bayonet mount lens this distance is 42.0 mm.

For a Pentax (and compatible) M42 screw mount it's 45.46 mm.

For the Nikon bayonet it's 46.50 mm.

There are many other mounts, each with their own registration distance. You can find them on the web.

Here, for example: http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm

A final note - setting your registration distance absolutely correct is very important. If it's off a bit, you lose your infinity focus - aka long distance detail. The best way I've found to do this is to focus on a very distant point of light, at night. Then look at the GG/focusing screen with a magnifying glass or other visual aid. Even a half a millimeter of registration distance change makes a difference.

I wonder if there is a standard known distance measurement for optical screw threads, i.e. 10 rotations = 2 mm, or whatever it may be. Then one could mount the GG in the thorlabs adapter just by turning the retaining rings the right number of times and setting the GG in place.

Anyone know of this?

Yes, for screw mount lenses it's the count, in threads per inch or threads per millimeter (depending on how your lens mount is rated).

However, never rely on this! There are so many variables in terms of where and how you mounted your ground glass that it's pointless. Just move the GG in and out until you get infinity focus, then lock the GG it at that point.

If you are off a little bit it's impossible to tell at anything but infinity focus. You are basically creating a macro system, like having an tiny macro extension tube.

I have spent a lot of time looking at GG in or out of proper registration focus setting, and lots of the people on this forum have their adapters off a little bit (!). Again, it's impossible to tell based on looking at anything other than faraway shots, but, a lot of people could use a little bit of GG dialling in.