Keith,
I think sticking to the AA's NiMH batts would be best. I probably wouldn't need to supply the full 12v, so maybe 6 to 8 AA's would be fine?

The camcorder battery is a good idea, im just thinking about weight. I'll have to compare a heavy duty cam batt and the AA batteries.

Cheers,
Wayne.

2. Glass GG and rotation.

I would not recommend rotating a CD-R sized glass gg at any more than 3000rpm. 1500rpm I found to be adequate for 1/50th second on the PD150.

3. Rainbows in image.

I suspect the culprit to be the close-up lens on front of the camcorder or any home brew condenser setups, rather than the gg. Before going to the ordeal of making a glass spinning gg, try a fixed gg made from a microscope slide first. These are also handy for wax tests.

Does the colour separation occur as a parallel rainbow effect or as a radial rainbow effect - possibly also associated with radial smearing or blur most noticeable at the outer edges or corners of the image. If the separation is radial and especially if the blur is there, then the relay path, ie., close-up lens and or condenser arrangement is likely to be implicated.

A plastic gg which is opaque through its entire thickness is going to confer a halo effect around highlights or sharp light/dark edges, but we are not going to use these for serious imaging are we??

I know my colour separation is not the close up lens, because I was not using it and still saw the colour separation. I am not sure that a glass GG would fix it, but I can't figure out why I am getting it with a plastic GG. I get it when looking at a lamp shade so I can see the inside and the outside (a lower angle). This is combated with closing the iris on my camera, but it makes everything much darker.

Wayne,

8 cells would give you 9.6 volts which should be plenty. These run fine at 7v (people use the 5v to the gnd and the 12v to the power and the potential difference is 7v) So you won't have a problem even with 6 cells because that is 7.2 volts.

Would a 7.2v, 2 cell lithium polymer battery do the trick? as these come in very high capacity.

Wayne

Wayne, lithium polymer would definetly work and great if you can find them, downside is they will require a charging circuit but if you can get by that then more power to you (a pun was so intended)

Hehe, thanks Keith,
Luckily im very familiar with LiPo's from my R/C helicopter days. They are both lightweight and high capacity, but need the special charger.

Something to concider i guess.
Wayne.

Frank Ladner
 

To Frank Ladner,

Frank, I read that you are also trying to build a spinning glass solution, using the case from a hard drive? Looks like me and you are the only 2 on this board trying to push this solution. I love the hard drive case idea, im thinking of using that.

Maybe we can get our heads together to come up with a working solution? Maybe we can chat via msn messenger if you wish? my msn is waynekinney@hotmail.com

Looks like the main problem is being able to drill a centre hole in the glass in the EXACT centre. Im very interested to see how far you have got with this.

If you can contact me via email or msn, or even on this thread, that would be great.

Thanks,
Wayne.

OK,
I am just getting ready to buy the tools required to build this spinning glass adapter. Below is what I intend to use:

1:A plastic project box to house everything in. size - MB5 145 x 95 x 57·5 (mm):
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?...rldID=&doy=3m9

2:1 Circular glass cutter like here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

3:Pack of 1mm Diamond drill bits like here:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

4:Coolermaster 80mm Tri-Blade Silent Fan:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1


Firstly ill cut the fan blades off and the outer body. Ill then drill 3 holes in the centre of a 5x6" glass from a photoframe using the 1mm diamond drill bit, the 3 holes will form a triangle shape to mount to the pc fan.

i will then place the glass in top of the pc fan where it should be mounted as accuratly as I can, then mark 3 holes on the fan. Ill then drill the holes on the fan ready to take 1mm screws to hole the glass to the fan. Ill use rubber grommets/washers, as to prent the screws from cracking the glass when they are tightened.

With the glass mounted, Ill start the glass spinning slowly, then using a perminant marker pen, touch the surface of the glass exactly 45mm from centre (90mm diameter glass), keeping the pen very steady. This will result in a line in the perfect position in relation to the axis of the motor.

Unmount the glass from the fan, then using the circular glass cutter, cut the 90mm diameter glass disk exactly on the line.

Once cut, you can then grind the glass with aluminium oxide (maybe its best to grind before hand?)

Remount the glass and you have it. The glass should be centred perfectly in relation to the centre axis of the motor.


There are 2 possible problems with this method. 1: Any inaccuracy when trying to cut on the line with the cicular glass cutter and 2:making sure the glass mounts to the fan in the EXACT same position each time.

Anyway, im going to buy the tools next week and give this a go. the 90mm diameter disk is the smallest possible while being able to use a 36x24mm frame area. The smaller the diameter of the glass, the less gyro effect i beleive. Ill let you all know how I get on.

Thanks
Wayne.